Youngberry - Trenton Cottage
Youngberry - Trenton Cottage
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Youngberry

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If you’re after a berry that grows reliably across many climates, then Youngberry (Rubus ursinus) is the perfect choice. This vigorous, self-fertile bramble produces generous crops of medium to large, glossy purple-black berries with a rich, sweet-tart flavour, ideal for fresh eating, jams, sauces, and baking. It thrives in cooler climates but also handles heat well, making it adaptable to various regions. Youngberries grow best in full sun but benefit from some afternoon shade in hotter climates. In spring, lush green foliage and soft white-pink flowers cover its long, arching canes, followed by heavy harvests in summer. It’s ideal for garden beds or large pots when supported by a trellis or fence. Youngberry is easy to grow, easy to manage, and highly rewarding. Supplied as a dormant, bare-rooted cane, ready for winter planting.

SKU: TCYOUNGE001 Category: Tags: ,

Description

Youngberry (Rubus ursinus)
Youngberry is a vigorous, deciduous perennial bramble from the Rosaceae family, bred from blackberry, raspberry, and dewberry. It produces medium to large, glossy purple-black berries with a rich, sweet-tart flavour, perfect for fresh eating, jams, desserts, and juices. Self-fertile and easy to grow, it’s ideal for home gardens and productive edible landscapes. With the right care and a permanent position, youngberries can thrive and fruit reliably for many years.

Growth Habit
In early spring, fresh green leaves emerge along arching canes that can reach up to 1.5–2 metres in length, followed by small white to pale pink flowers and heavy crops of richly coloured berries. Youngberries typically grow to around 1.5 metres tall and 1–2 metres wide, making them suitable for both garden beds and trained spaces. They fruit on second-year wood (floricanes), while first-year canes (primocanes) focus on growth. With a manageable spread and reliable structure, they are among the easiest Rubus fruits to maintain.

Climate Suitability
Youngberries thrive in cooler climates but handle heat well, making them adaptable to a wide range of regions. They perform best with a period of winter chill to support fruit development, yet remain one of the most reliable berry options for warmer areas. Once established, they tolerate light frosts, but young canes are sensitive and should be protected in frost-prone areas. Use frost cloths or plant in pots for winter planting in colder regions. Provide full sun, with some afternoon shade in hotter areas to prevent leaf scorch and protect the fruit.

When to Plant
Plant from winter to early spring while the cane is dormant. In cold regions, delay planting until late winter or early spring when the risk of frost has eased.

Choose a Position
Plant in a sunny spot with at least six hours of direct sunlight daily. In warmer climates or areas with extreme heat, provide some afternoon or light dappled shade to protect the fruit and foliage.

Soil
Use well-drained, fertile soil enriched with compost or aged organic matter. Alternatively, incorporate blood and bone or a balanced complete fertiliser into the soil before planting.

How to Plant
• Space plants 1.5–2 metres apart to allow room for trailing cane growth and to maintain good airflow.
• Dig a hole twice as wide as the root system.
• Plant so the core sits just below the soil surface, matching the original soil mark on the cane.
• Install a trellis, fence, or wire support at planting to train canes as they grow and to make future harvesting easier.

Growing in Pots
Use a very large container filled with premium-quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost. Add a sturdy trellis or support at planting time. Adjust watering and feeding to suit container conditions.

Care and Maintenance
Watering: Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged during establishment, flowering, and fruiting. In subtropical regions, natural summer rainfall is often sufficient. Water only when needed. Reduce watering in winter, but don’t let plants dry out completely.
Fertilising: Apply a complete fertiliser in early spring. Use a monthly liquid feed during summer to support fruiting.
Mulching: Apply organic mulch around the base to conserve moisture and suppress weeds. Keep mulch slightly clear of the stem to prevent rot and maintain airflow at ground level.

Pruning
Youngberries grow on a two-year cane cycle. In the first year after planting, allow them to grow unpruned to establish a strong root system and framework. In the second year and beyond, canes that grew the previous season become fruiting floricanes, which produce their crop in summer. These should be removed after harvest or in winter to make space for new growth and reduce disease risk. While the floricanes are fruiting, new primocanes will grow vigorously. Tie these neatly to a trellis and tip prune them at 1.2–1.5 metres to encourage side branching for next season’s fruit.

In winter, select 5–7 of the strongest primocanes to keep, removing any that are weak, overcrowded, or poorly positioned. Shorten lateral branches to 30–45 cm and remove side shoots below 45 cm from the ground to improve airflow. Tie the remaining canes to a trellis or wire support to guide growth if they haven’t already been secured. Regular winter pruning promotes strong, healthy plants with improved airflow and easier harvesting, aiming to maintain around 10 healthy canes per plant to balance yield and space.

Harvest
Youngberries are typically ready to harvest from December to February, with fruit in warmer climates often ripening earlier. Pick berries when fully coloured and slightly soft. Handle with care, as they bruise easily. Best enjoyed fresh or used immediately in jams, desserts, sauces, and preserves.

Pests and Diseases
Pests: Aphids and spider mites may appear on new growth. Use insecticidal soap or attract beneficial insects. Birds are drawn to ripe fruit. Use netting for protection.
Diseases: High humidity can cause rust, botrytis (grey mould), and powdery mildew. Prevent issues with good spacing, trellising, base watering, and prompt removal of affected growth. Apply organic fungicide if needed.

Safety
Youngberries produce thorny canes, so it’s best to wear gloves and long sleeves when handling them. Children should be supervised around the plants. Only the berries are edible; avoid consuming the leaves, stems, or roots.

Supplied as a bare-rooted cane.

Additional information

Price Code

D – Purple Pack
Botanical Name

Rubus ursinus
Quantity in Pack

1 Cane
Harvest Time

Youngberries are typically harvested from December to February, with fruit in warmer climates often ripening earlier. Harvest timing may vary depending on local climate and growing conditions.
Planting Time

Plant from winter to early spring while the cane is dormant. In cool climates, delay planting until late winter or early spring when the risk of frost has eased. In frost-prone areas, protect young canes with frost cloth or start them in pots to transplant when conditions improve.
Planting Depth

Dig a hole twice as wide as the root system, and position the core just below the soil surface, matching the original soil mark on the cane.
Planting Width

Space plants around 1.5 – 2 metres apart to allow for maturity and airflow.
Soil

Plant in rich, well-drained soil improved with organic matter. Adding compost or well-rotted manure enhances soil structure and boosts nutrient availability.

For containers, choose a premium-quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost. Refreshing the top few centimetres of mix annually and adding compost helps keep plants healthy, productive, and thriving in pots without the need for full repotting.
How to Plant

Youngberries are vigorous growers but are easier to manage than more sprawling berry varieties. They require a permanent position with space to spread and support their trailing canes. Choose a location with full sun to part shade, ensuring the plants receive at least six hours of direct sunlight each day for strong growth and abundant fruiting. In regions that experience extreme heat, providing some afternoon shade will help protect the leaves from sunburn and keep the berries plump and juicy.

Prior to planting, enrich the soil by digging in well-rotted compost or animal manure. Alternatively, you can apply a complete fertiliser or blood and bone to boost nutrient levels if organic matter is not available.

Plant so the core sits just below the soil surface, matching the original soil mark on the cane. Allow 1.5 to 2 metres between each plant to promote good airflow, reduce the risk of pests and disease, and make it easier to access the canes during harvest. Training youngberries against a trellis, fence, or wall helps keep plants tidy, makes harvesting easier, and prevents long canes from trailing along the ground, where they may take root and form new growth.

Once planted, backfill with soil, firm it down gently, and water thoroughly to settle the roots. Finish by applying a thick layer of mulch, such as sugarcane, lucerne, or pea straw, around the base to retain soil moisture, regulate temperature, and suppress weeds, keeping the mulch slightly away from the crown.

Growing in Pots: Use a very large pot (at least 50–70 litres or 45–60 cm wide and deep) filled with premium, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost. Install a trellis at planting and follow the same care as for garden-grown plants, adjusting watering for container conditions.
Watering

Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged during establishment and fruit development, adjusting to natural rainfall. Once established, watering is mostly needed during dry spells or while fruit is forming. Always water at the base to minimise the risk of fungal disease.

Growing in Pots: Pots can dry out faster than garden beds, so check soil moisture regularly during hot weather.
Fertilise

Youngberries are moderate feeders that benefit from regular nutrition to support healthy cane growth and reliable fruiting. For best results, apply a balanced complete fertiliser, such as a general-purpose 10-10-10 or 20-20-20, or an organic fruit and berry fertiliser in early spring as new growth begins. Always water the soil lightly before fertilising and again afterward to help nutrients reach the roots and avoid burning.

Throughout the growing season, a monthly feed with a liquid fertiliser like seaweed extract or an organic berry tonic can help maintain strong growth and encourage better fruit quality, especially if signs of nutrient deficiency appear. Symptoms include pale or yellowing leaves, reduced flowering, or weak cane development. A light feed in early summer can help restore vigour.

Avoid overfeeding, as this can lead to soft, floppy growth, fewer flowers, and increased susceptibility to pests and disease. If over-fertilisation is suspected, stop feeding, water thoroughly to flush excess nutrients, and allow the plant to recover.

Adding compost or well-rotted manure to the soil before planting improves structure and supplies slow-release nutrients, reducing the need for excessive fertiliser later in the season.

Tip: Avoid fertilising late in the growing season, as this may promote leafy growth at the expense of next year’s fruiting.
Pruning

Youngberries grow on a two-year cane cycle. When planting a new youngberry, allow it to grow unpruned for the first year to help it establish a strong root system and framework.

From the second year onward, canes that grew the previous season become floricanes, which are second-year canes that produce fruit in summer. Once they have fruited, floricanes will not produce again and should be removed. This can be done after the fruiting season finishes or in winter. Pruning is best performed in late winter in cooler climates to minimise the risk of frost damage to freshly cut stems.

While the floricanes are fruiting, new primocanes will grow vigorously alongside them. Primocanes are first-year canes that do not fruit in the year they grow but will become the fruiting floricanes the following season. Tie these primocanes neatly to one side of the trellis to keep them separate from the floricanes, making harvesting and pruning easier. When primocanes reach 1.2–1.5 metres in summer, tip-prune their ends just above a healthy leaf node to encourage side branching for the following season’s fruit.

In winter, select 5–7 of the strongest primocanes to keep, removing any that are weak, overcrowded, or poorly positioned. Shorten lateral branches to 30–45 cm and remove side shoots below 45 cm from the ground to improve airflow. Tie the remaining canes to a trellis or wire support to guide growth if they haven’t already been secured. Aim to maintain around 10 healthy canes each year to balance fruiting and keep the plant manageable.

Youngberry plants may produce suckers. These are new shoots that emerge away from the main plant. Either remove them below the soil surface to control spreading or dig them up to propagate new plants.
Harvest

Youngberries are typically ready from December to February, aligning with summer in most regions. In warmer climates, harvesting may begin slightly earlier depending on local conditions. Berries are ripe when they turn a deep purple-black and feel slightly soft to the touch.

Check plants every few days during peak season, as berries ripen quickly and should be picked as soon as they’re ready. For the best flavour, pick fruit that is fully coloured and slightly soft. Underripe berries will be tart, while overripe ones may soften too much on the plant.

Handle with care when harvesting, as the fruit is delicate and bruises easily. Use shallow containers and avoid stacking. Youngberries are best eaten fresh or used immediately in jams, desserts, sauces, and preserves. They can also be refrigerated for 1–2 days or frozen for longer use.
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