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Strawberry Torrey

Strawberry ‘Torrey’ (Fragaria × ananassa) is a sun-ripened favourite, loved for its juicy, sweet flavour, vibrant colour, and reliable harvests. While it grows well in cooler climates, it’s a top performer in warmer regions with mild winters and subtropical conditions thanks to its ability to fruit without the need for cold weather to initiate production, making it an ideal choice where other varieties may struggle. Torrey’s vigorous, compact plants produce firm, medium to large berries from spring into early summer and show good resistance to most leaf-spot diseases. Easy to grow in garden beds, containers, hanging baskets, or as a ground cover, Torrey is a dependable variety that delivers generous crops perfect for fresh eating, preserving, and desserts.

SKU: TCSTRTOR004 Category: Edible Produce Tags: Fragaria x ananassa, Strawberry, Strawberry Torrey

Description
Additional information

Description

Strawberry Torrey
Strawberry ‘Torrey’ (Fragaria × ananassa) is a vigorous, sweet-flavoured variety that performs reliably across a wide range of climates. Known for its medium to large, firm red fruit and compact growth habit, Torrey is particularly well-suited to warmer regions with mild winters, including subtropical areas. It doesn’t require a winter chill to set fruit, making it ideal for gardeners in low-chill zones. Fruiting begins in spring and continues into early summer, offering a generous crop over several weeks. The plants show good resistance to most leaf-spot diseases, making them a low-maintenance choice for garden beds, pots, and hanging baskets.

Climate Suitability
Originating from California, Torrey grows well across many Australian climates and thrives in areas with mild winters. It performs particularly well in warmer regions and subtropical zones. Unlike traditional varieties, it doesn’t require cold weather to initiate fruiting. In frost-prone regions, protect young plants during establishment to avoid damage.

When to Plant
Plant from autumn to winter, once the soil has cooled. In areas with frost, plant early and protect crowns with mulch or frost cloth. Keep mulch clear of the crown in wet weather. If needed, start in pots and transplant when frost risk passes.

How to Plant
Soak bare-rooted runners in water or diluted seaweed solution for up to an hour. Plant in full sun, with some afternoon shade in hot areas. Choose rich, well-drained soil enriched with compost or aged manure. Mix in a slow-release fertiliser, avoiding the crown.

Garden beds: Space 30–40 cm apart, rows 40–60 cm apart
Containers: Space slightly closer, ensuring airflow

In heavy soils, raise the planting area or create mounds. Position roots straight and fan them slightly, keeping the crown just above soil level. Firm in and water well.

Mulching
Mulch with straw, sugarcane or leaf litter to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and protect fruit. In cold areas, apply a light layer and use frost cloths if needed. In warmer regions, mulch more generously to conserve moisture. Always mulch before fruiting.

Watering
Water thoroughly after planting. Once growth starts, water regularly, especially while flowering and fruiting. Water at the base in the morning to reduce disease risk, allowing the top layer of soil to dry slightly between waterings.

Fertilising
Before planting, enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure. Use a small amount of balanced fertiliser if desired. During early growth, apply a liquid fertiliser fortnightly, especially in pots. Once established, feed in-ground plants every 6–8 weeks, and continue fortnightly for potted plants through the growing season. Resume feeding each new season as growth restarts after dormancy.

General Maintenance
Keep beds weed-free and remove damaged leaves for airflow. In the first few weeks, removing the initial flowers is optional but can help the plant focus on establishing strong roots and crowns, leading to better yields in future seasons. Remove runners during the first two years. From year three, peg runners down to renew your patch. Monitor moisture levels and top up mulch as needed.

Harvesting
Strawberry Torrey produces one heavy crop per year, usually from spring to early summer. Pick when berries are bright red and glossy. Use scissors or gently pinch above the fruit. Harvest in the morning for firmer berries, or in the afternoon for best flavour. Pick regularly and handle gently.

Longevity and Renewal
Strawberries remain productive for 3–4 years. After this time, yields and fruit quality may decline. From the third year onwards, use healthy runners to replace old plants. In pots, refresh the soil yearly and replace plants every 2–3 years.

Pests and Diseases
Torrey shows good resistance to most leaf-spot diseases but may be affected by aphids, mites, fruit fly, slugs, and grey mould. Improve airflow, mulch to keep fruit clean, and remove old foliage. Use neem oil or insecticidal soap for pests. Apply eco-friendly fruit fly baits, set slug traps, and secure bird netting to protect fruit.

Safety
Strawberries are non-toxic to people and pets. Fruit is safe in small amounts for pets but avoid chewing leaves or stems. Consult a vet if any symptoms occur.

Supplied as bare-rooted runners.

Additional information

Price Code	C – Orange Pack
Botanical Name	Fragaria x ananassa
Quantity in Pack	4 Runners
Harvest Time	Fruiting occurs once per year over several weeks, typically from spring through to early summer. In warmer regions, harvests may begin earlier due to Torrey’s ability to fruit without the need for winter chill. Timing may vary depending on seasonal conditions and your local climate.
Planting Time	Plant from autumn to winter. In frost-prone areas, aim to plant before heavy frosts arrive to give roots time to establish. If frost is expected, protect young runners with mulch and/or frost cloth. Alternatively, start them in pots and transplant them once conditions improve. In warmer climates, wait until the soil has cooled before planting and avoid periods of intense heat for best results.
Planting Depth	Plant with the crown just above the soil surface, ensuring any visible growth remain exposed. Position the roots straight down, ensuring none are bent or curled upwards, then gently fan them out. Dig holes deep enough to accommodate the full root length. If roots are excessively long, they can be trimmed to around 10 cm.
Planting Width	In garden beds, vegetable plots, or directly in the ground, space strawberries 30–40 cm apart, with 40–60 cm between rows. In pots, they can be planted slightly closer, but ensure each plant has room to grow and is not touching others to maintain airflow and reduce the risk of disease.
Soil	Use rich, well-drained, organic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Improve garden beds by digging in compost or well-rotted manure. In heavier soils, improve drainage by incorporating coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel. For pots, containers, or hanging baskets, use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic fertiliser. Avoid heavy garden soil, and ensure containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
How to Plant	Before planting, soak bare-rooted strawberries in clean water for up to an hour to rehydrate the roots. You can add a diluted seaweed solution to support early growth and reduce transplant shock. Avoid soaking for too long, as extended periods can cause the plants to deteriorate or rot. Choose a spot in full sun, with light afternoon shade in hot climates to prevent stress. Make sure the area is protected from strong winds, and use rich, organic, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0–6.5. Mix in compost or well-rotted manure before planting. If your soil is heavy or drains poorly, improve it with additions like coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel. In these conditions, it's also best to plant on raised mounds within dug-out holes or use raised beds to lift the crowns above ground level—this helps prevent water from pooling around the crown. In well-draining soils, no mounding is needed; plant as normal. Space plants 30–40 cm apart in garden beds, with 40–60 cm between rows. In containers or hanging baskets, you can space them closer, but ensure plants aren’t touching to maintain airflow and reduce the risk of disease. For those with well-draining soil where raising the runners isn't needed, dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the full length of the roots. If the roots are too long, trim them to around 10 cm. Place the roots straight down and fan them out slightly. Set the crown just above soil level, keeping any visible growth exposed. Firm the soil gently around the plant and water in well. To create a mound, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the root system, then backfill with improved soil to form a small, raised mound in the centre of the hole. Spread the roots evenly over the mound with the crown sat on top. The crown should be just above soil level—you should be able to see where the leaves emerge. Gently firm the soil around the roots, leaving the crown slightly exposed, and water in well. Positioning the crown just above soil level helps prevent rot while ensuring the roots remain in contact with moisture below. If the crown is buried too deeply, it may rot. If planted too high, the roots can dry out and fail to establish.
Watering	Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. During establishment, water only when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry—this encourages deeper root growth and reduces the risk of rot. Once new growth appears, increase watering frequency, particularly during flowering and fruiting, as consistent moisture is essential for healthy fruit development. Only water when the surface begins to dry, and avoid watering during prolonged wet periods to prevent waterlogging and fungal issues. Once strawberries are no longer actively fruiting, reduce watering during dormancy. In areas with dry winters, occasional light watering may help prevent the plants from drying out. Always water at the base of the plant, ideally in the morning, to keep foliage dry and reduce the risk of disease. In hot, dry, or windy conditions—and when growing in containers—check moisture levels regularly, as pots dry out more quickly than garden beds. Signs of Under-Watering: Plants may wilt or look limp, with leaves curling or turning dry and crispy at the edges. Fruit may remain small, fail to fully ripen, or develop uneven colouring and poor flavour. Signs of Over-Watering: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, wilting despite damp soil, and mushy crowns or roots are all signs of excess moisture. Overly wet conditions can also increase the risk of fungal issues like root rot and leaf spot. Adjust watering immediately if these symptoms appear.
Fertilise	Before planting, enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure. A small amount of balanced fertiliser at planting is optional. If runners weren’t soaked before planting, water them in with a diluted seaweed solution to reduce transplant shock, especially if no fertiliser was added. Use a balanced fertiliser that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)—often labelled as NPK on the packaging. A ratio such as 10:10:10 or 12:5:15 is suitable, or look for fertilisers specifically labelled for fruiting plants or strawberries. Liquid fertilisers for fruiting plants often include trace elements like calcium, magnesium, or iron, which support overall plant health and fruit quality. During early growth, apply a liquid fertiliser fortnightly, particularly in pots. For newly planted strawberries in garden beds, continue fortnightly liquid feeding during their first growing season to support healthy establishment and early development. Once plants are established, in-ground strawberries can be fed every 6–8 weeks with a balanced fertiliser. In pots, continue fortnightly liquid feeding throughout the growing season (typically from spring through to summer). Always follow the instructions on the product label for application rates and timing. Signs of nutrient deficiency: Look for pale or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, weak flowering, or poor fruit development. These can indicate the plant isn’t receiving enough nutrition. Signs of over-fertilising: Plants may produce lush, leafy growth with few flowers or fruit. Leaf edges may appear scorched or brown-tipped, and roots can suffer damage, especially if fertiliser comes into direct contact with them.
Harvest	Strawberry ‘Torrey’ typically produces one main crop per year over several weeks, usually from spring through to early summer. In warmer regions, established plants may begin cropping earlier due to its low chill requirement. Timing may vary depending on seasonal conditions and your local climate. Pick strawberries when they are bright red and plump, as they won’t continue to ripen once picked. Use clean scissors to cut the stem about 1 cm above the fruit, or pinch the stem just above the cap to avoid bruising. For the best shelf life, harvest in the cool of the morning when berries are firmest—ideal if you're storing them in the fridge or using them for preserving, jams, or freezing. If the berries are being eaten the same day, pick in the afternoon when they’re at their most flavourful and aromatic, and avoid refrigerating to retain their taste. Handle gently and pick regularly to ensure clean, healthy fruit throughout the season. Remove any damaged or mouldy fruit to reduce the risk of grey mould spreading. Good airflow, dry foliage, and base watering help reduce this risk during fruiting.
Maintenance	Strawberries typically remain productive for 3 to 4 years. After this, fruit size and yield decline. To maintain healthy growth, replace ageing plants with new ones grown from runners or sourced afresh. In the first two years, remove runners to help plants focus on root and fruit development. From the third year, allow a few strong runners to root or pot them up for future planting. This helps renew your patch and prevents overcrowding. You can also root runners earlier if the plant shows signs of decline. Container-grown strawberries often need refreshing more frequently. Top up with fresh potting mix annually and replace soil entirely every couple of years. If plants show signs of decline despite feeding, replant with young runners or start again with new plants in revitalised soil. After harvesting, remove any yellowing or dead leaves by cutting them at the base to improve airflow and reduce disease risk. Clear away old mulch and any mouldy fruit to prevent pests and fungal issues. Apply mulch around plants to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep developing fruit clean. Use pea straw, sugarcane mulch, or other loose organic matter, keeping it clear of the crown to prevent rot. In frost-prone, high-rainfall areas, avoid heavy mulch directly over crowns—use light mulch or frost cloths instead. For extreme frost, both can be used together. If using frost cloths, remove them during the day or when temperatures rise above freezing to allow airflow and prevent overheating. In warmer, drier regions, mulch helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. In subtropical areas with high rainfall, delay mulching until conditions dry out. Mulch can be refreshed throughout the season, but always apply before fruiting to keep fruit dry and reduce the risk of mould. Weed regularly and maintain airflow around the crowns to reduce disease risk and support healthy growth.

Strawberry Torrey

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