Strawberry Red Gauntlet - Trenton Cottage
Strawberry Red Gauntlet - Trenton Cottage
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Strawberry Red Gauntlet

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Strawberry ‘Red Gauntlet’ (Fragaria × ananassa) is a top-performing cool-climate variety, known for its firm fruit, long harvests, and exceptional yield. Originally bred in Scotland and widely grown commercially in southern Australia, it’s prized for its reliability, disease resistance, and productivity. This cold-hardy plant produces medium to large, heart-shaped berries with a flavour that’s more tart than sweet, perfect for those who love a refreshing bite. Left to fully ripen at home, the fruit develops a deeper, sweeter taste that commercial crops rarely reach. Ideal for garden beds, raised beds, and containers, ‘Red Gauntlet’ is a fantastic choice for cool to temperate gardens looking for an extended supply of delicious, firm-fleshed strawberries.

SKU: TCSTRRGA004 Category: Tags: , ,

Description

Strawberry Red Gauntlet
Strawberry ‘Red Gauntlet’ (Fragaria × ananassa) is a cold-hardy, high-yielding variety developed in Scotland and widely grown in Australia’s cooler and temperate regions. It begins with white spring flowers, followed by an extended fruiting season through summer. The berries are medium to large, heart-shaped, and firm, with a flavour that leans tart but sweetens when left to fully ripen on the plant. Thanks to its strong disease resistance and commercial heritage, it’s a dependable performer in home gardens, particularly where cooler conditions prevail.

Climate Suitability
Strawberry ‘Red Gauntlet’ can be grown in cool to arid climates and is well adapted to regions with cold winters and warm summers. Bred in Scotland, it’s cold-hardy and naturally resistant to fungal diseases, making it ideal for frost-prone areas. It also suits Mediterranean climates with adequate water, wind protection, and mulch. While best in cool to temperate climates, it performs well in drier areas with care. Young plants need protection during their first season, but become reliably cold-hardy once established.

When to Plant
Plant from autumn to winter, when the ground has cooled. Red Gauntlet is frost-hardy, but young plants need time to adjust and develop their roots. To ensure they thrive and become vigorous growers, they must be protected during their establishment period. In frost-prone areas, plant before frost risk increases and protect crowns with a light mulch or frost cloth. Keep mulch clear of the crown in wet conditions to prevent rot. If needed, start in pots and transplant once the danger of frost has passed.

How to Plant
Before planting, soak bare-rooted runners for up to an hour in water (with optional diluted seaweed solution). This can help them establish, though it’s not essential. Plant in full sun, with light afternoon shade in hot regions. Choose a sheltered location protected from hot winds. Use rich, well-drained, organic soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Improve garden beds by digging in compost or well-rotted manure. In heavier soils, improve drainage by incorporating coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel. Mix in a slow-release fertiliser and keep away from the crowns.

Plant in:

  • Garden beds or raised beds: Space 30–40 cm apart, rows 40–60 cm apart.
  • Containers: Space slightly closer but not touching, to maintain airflow and reduce disease risk.

In heavy soils, plant in raised beds or on mounds inside dug-out holes to improve drainage. This is not necessary in pots. Plant the roots so they are straight and slightly fanned out, with the crown just above the soil level. Firm in and water well.

Mulching
Mulch helps conserve moisture, suppress weeds, protect roots, and keep fruit clean. Use straw, sugarcane mulch, or leaf litter, keeping it clear of the crown to prevent rot. Apply a light mulch after planting, especially in frost-prone areas. Use frost cloths if needed, or both in extreme frost. In warmer, drier climates, mulch more generously to conserve moisture and keep roots cool. Once plants are well established, mulch may also be applied during winter if needed. Always mulch before fruiting.

Watering
After planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil, then water only when the top few centimetres are dry. Once new growth appears, increase frequency, especially during flowering and fruiting. Adjust watering for climate and container conditions. Water at the base in the morning to keep foliage dry and reduce disease risk.

Fertilising
Before planting, enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure. A small amount of balanced fertiliser at planting is optional. If runners weren’t soaked, water them in with a diluted seaweed solution. During early growth, apply liquid fertiliser fortnightly, especially in pots. Once plants are well established, feed in-ground strawberries every 6–8 weeks, and continue fortnightly feeding for potted plants through spring and summer. Resume feeding each season as new growth appears after dormancy.

General Maintenance
Keep the soil weed-free, especially early on, and remove any damaged leaves to improve airflow. Removing the initial flowers can help plants focus on root and crown growth. Remove runners for the first two years. From year three, or when plants decline, peg runners down or use them to expand your patch. Monitor moisture in hot weather and top up mulch as needed.

Harvesting
Red Gauntlet produces fruit over an extended period during summer, particularly in cool climates. Pick berries when fully red and firm. Use scissors to cut 1 cm above the fruit or pinch gently by hand. Harvest in the cool of the morning for firmer berries, or in the afternoon when eating fresh. Handle gently and harvest regularly.

Longevity and Renewal
Strawberries remain productive for around 3–4 years. After this time, yields may decline. From year three, use healthy runners to renew plants and maintain a productive patch. Potted strawberries decline faster than those in beds. Refresh the soil each year and replace plants every 2–3 years.

Pests and Diseases 
Red Gauntlet has strong resistance to fungal issues in cool or wet conditions. Aphids, mites, slugs, and grey mould may still occur. Maintain airflow, remove old leaves, and mulch to keep fruit clean. Use organic sprays like insecticidal soap or neem oil, and fruit fly baits if needed. Use bird netting to protect ripening fruit.

Safety
Strawberries are non-toxic to humans and pets. The fruit is safe in small amounts, but avoid letting pets chew leaves or stems. If signs of discomfort appear, consult a vet.

Supplied as bare-rooted runners.

Additional information

Price Code

C – Orange Pack
Botanical Name

Fragaria x ananassa
Quantity in Pack

4 Runners
Harvest Time

Fruiting occurs once per year over several weeks, usually during summer, with earlier harvests possible in warmer regions. Timing may vary depending on seasonal conditions and your local climate.
Planting Time

Plant from autumn to winter. In frost-prone areas, aim to plant before heavy frosts arrive to give roots time to establish. If frost is expected, protect young runners with mulch and/or frost cloth. Alternatively, start them in pots and transplant them once conditions improve.
In warmer climates, wait until the soil has cooled before planting and avoid periods of intense heat for best results.
Planting Depth

Plant with the crown just above the soil surface, ensuring any visible growth remain exposed. Position the roots straight down, ensuring none are bent or curled upwards, then gently fan them out. Dig holes deep enough to accommodate the full root length. If roots are excessively long, they can be trimmed to around 10 cm.
Planting Width

In garden beds, vegetable plots, or directly in the ground, space strawberries 30–40 cm apart, with 40–60 cm between rows. In pots, they can be planted slightly closer, but ensure each plant has room to grow and is not touching others to maintain airflow and reduce the risk of disease.
Soil

Use rich, well-drained, organic soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Improve garden beds by digging in compost or well-rotted manure. In heavier soils, improve drainage by incorporating coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel.

For pots, containers, or hanging baskets, use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic fertiliser. Avoid heavy garden soil, and ensure containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
How to Plant

Before planting, soak bare-rooted strawberries in clean water for up to an hour to rehydrate the roots. You can add a diluted seaweed solution to support early growth and reduce transplant shock. Avoid soaking for too long, as extended periods can cause the plants to deteriorate or rot.

Choose a spot in full sun, with light afternoon shade in warmer climates to prevent stress. Make sure the area is protected from strong winds, and use rich, organic, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0–6.5. Mix in compost or well-rotted manure before planting.

If your soil is heavy or drains poorly, improve it with additions like coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel. In these conditions, it's also best to plant on raised mounds within dug-out holes or use raised beds to lift the crowns above ground level—this helps prevent water from pooling around the crown. In well-draining soils, no mounding is needed; plant as normal.

Space plants 30–40 cm apart in garden beds, with 40–60 cm between rows. In containers or hanging baskets, you can space them closer, but ensure plants aren’t touching to maintain airflow and reduce the risk of disease.

For those with well-draining soil where raising the runners isn't needed, dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the full length of the roots. If the roots are too long, trim them to around 10 cm. Place the roots straight down and fan them out slightly. Set the crown just above soil level, keeping any visible growth exposed. Firm the soil gently around the plant and water in well.

To create a mound, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the root system, then backfill with improved soil to form a small, raised mound in the centre of the hole. Spread the roots evenly over the mound with the crown sat on top. The crown should be just above soil level—you should be able to see where the leaves emerge. Gently firm the soil around the roots, leaving the crown slightly exposed, and water in well.

Positioning the crown just above soil level helps prevent rot while ensuring the roots remain in contact with moisture below. If the crown is buried too deeply, it may rot. If planted too high, the roots can dry out and fail to establish.
Watering

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. During establishment, water only when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry—this encourages deeper root growth and reduces the risk of rot. Once new growth appears, increase watering frequency, particularly during flowering and fruiting, as consistent moisture is essential for healthy fruit development.

Only water when the surface begins to dry, and avoid watering during prolonged wet periods to prevent waterlogging and fungal issues. Once strawberries are no longer actively fruiting, reduce watering during dormancy. In areas with dry winters, occasional light watering may help prevent the plants from drying out.

Always water at the base of the plant, ideally in the morning, to keep foliage dry and reduce the risk of disease. In hot, dry, or windy conditions—and when growing in containers—check moisture levels regularly, as pots dry out more quickly than garden beds.

Signs of Under-Watering: Plants may wilt or look limp, with leaves curling or turning dry and crispy at the edges. Fruit may remain small, fail to fully ripen, or develop uneven colouring and poor flavour.

Signs of Over-Watering: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, wilting despite damp soil, and mushy crowns or roots are all signs of excess moisture. Overly wet conditions can also increase the risk of fungal issues like root rot and leaf spot. Adjust watering immediately if these symptoms appear.
Fertilise

Before planting, enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure. A small amount of balanced fertiliser at planting is optional. If runners weren’t soaked before planting, water them in with a diluted seaweed solution to reduce transplant shock, especially if no fertiliser was added.

Use a balanced fertiliser that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)—often labelled as NPK on the packaging. A ratio such as 10:10:10 or 12:5:15 is suitable, or look for fertilisers specifically labelled for fruiting plants or strawberries. Liquid fertilisers for fruiting plants often include trace elements like calcium, magnesium, or iron, which support overall plant health and fruit quality.

During early growth, apply a liquid fertiliser fortnightly, particularly in pots. For newly planted strawberries in garden beds, continue fortnightly liquid feeding during their first growing season to support healthy establishment and early development. Once plants are established, in-ground strawberries can be fed every 6–8 weeks with a balanced fertiliser. In pots, continue fortnightly liquid feeding throughout the growing season (typically from spring through to summer). Always follow the instructions on the product label for application rates and timing.

Signs of nutrient deficiency: Look for pale or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, weak flowering, or poor fruit development. These can indicate the plant isn’t receiving enough nutrition.

Signs of over-fertilising: Plants may produce lush, leafy growth with few flowers or fruit. Leaf edges may appear scorched or brown-tipped, and roots can suffer damage, especially if fertiliser comes into direct contact with them.
Harvest

Strawberry ‘Red Gauntlet’ typically produces one heavy crop per year over several weeks, usually during summer. In warmer regions, established plants may begin cropping earlier. Timing may vary depending on seasonal conditions and your local climate.

Pick strawberries when they are bright red and plump, as they won’t continue to ripen once picked. Use clean scissors to cut the stem about 1 cm above the fruit, or pinch the stem just above the cap to avoid bruising.

For the best shelf life, harvest in the cool of the morning when berries are firmest—ideal if you're storing them in the fridge or using them for preserving, jams, or freezing. If the berries are being eaten the same day, pick in the afternoon when they’re at their most flavourful and aromatic, and avoid refrigerating to retain their taste.

Handle gently and pick regularly to ensure clean, healthy fruit throughout the season. Remove any damaged or mouldy fruit to reduce the risk of grey mould spreading. Good airflow, dry foliage, and base watering help reduce this risk during fruiting.
Maintenance

Strawberries typically remain productive for 3 to 4 years. After this, fruit size and yield decline. To maintain healthy growth, replace ageing plants with new ones grown from runners or sourced afresh.

In the first two years, remove runners to help plants focus on root and fruit development. From the third year, allow a few strong runners to root or pot them up for future planting. This helps renew your patch and prevents overcrowding. You can also root runners earlier if the plant shows signs of decline.

Container-grown strawberries often need refreshing more frequently. Top up with fresh potting mix annually and replace soil entirely every couple of years. If plants show signs of decline despite feeding, replant with young runners or start again with new plants in revitalised soil.

After harvesting, remove any yellowing or dead leaves by cutting them at the base to improve airflow and reduce disease risk. Clear away old mulch and any mouldy fruit to prevent pests and fungal issues. Apply mulch around plants to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep developing fruit clean. Use pea straw, sugarcane mulch, or other loose organic matter, keeping it clear of the crown to prevent rot. In frost-prone, high-rainfall areas, avoid heavy mulch directly over crowns—use light mulch or frost cloths instead. For extreme frost, both can be used together. If using frost cloths, remove them during the day or when temperatures rise above freezing to allow airflow and prevent overheating. In warmer, drier regions, mulch helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Mulch can be refreshed throughout the season, but always apply before fruiting to keep fruit dry and reduce the risk of mould.

Weed regularly and maintain airflow around the crowns to reduce disease risk and support healthy growth.
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