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Strawberry Lowanna

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Strawberry ‘Lowanna’ (Fragaria × ananassa) is an Australian-bred variety known for its ability to produce large, sweet, glossy red berries over an impressively long season, from spring right through to the first frost. It produces large white flowers followed by fruit while temperatures remain between 20–30 °C, offering a reliable and generous crop across much of Australia. Compact and easy to grow, ‘Lowanna’ performs beautifully in garden beds, pots, and containers, making it ideal for all spaces. With good disease resistance, fewer runners, and a strong focus on fruit production, this low-maintenance strawberry is perfect for gardeners seeking extended harvests with minimal fuss.

Description

Strawberry Lowanna
Strawberry ‘Lowanna’ (Fragaria × ananassa) is a highly productive, day-neutral variety bred in Australia to suit a wide range of climates. It produces large, glossy red berries with a sweet, juicy flavour and a firm, satisfying texture. Fruiting begins in spring and continues until the first frost, provided temperatures remain between 20–30 °C. Known for its compact growth and large white flowers, Lowanna delivers consistent harvests throughout the warmer months. It produces minimal runners, focusing on fruiting, and shows good resistance to common strawberry diseases, making it a reliable, low-maintenance choice for both garden beds and pots.

Climate Suitability
Lowanna grows well across many Australian climates and is best suited to regions where temperatures stay between 20–30 °C from spring through to the first frost. Fruiting begins as conditions warm and continues steadily within this range. Once temperatures drop below 20 °C with cool nights, plants naturally enter dormancy, typically from autumn into winter. Some fruit may still develop during this time and can be harvested as usual. Growth resumes as the weather warms again in mid-late winter or early spring.

When to Plant
Plant from autumn to winter once the ground has cooled. In frost-prone areas, plant before frost risk rises and protect crowns with mulch or frost cloth. Start in pots if needed and transplant after the danger of frost has passed. In warmer regions, plant as soon as runners arrive, avoiding hot spells for best results.

How to Plant
Soak bare-rooted runners for up to an hour in water (with optional seaweed solution). Choose a sunny, sheltered spot with afternoon shade in hot regions. Use rich, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic pH (6.0–6.5), improved with compost or manure. Mix in a slow-release fertiliser, keeping it away from the crown.

Plant in:
• Garden beds or raised beds: space 30–40 cm apart, rows 40–60 cm apart.
• Containers: space slightly closer while maintaining airflow.

In heavy soils, use raised beds or plant on mounds for better drainage. In containers, this isn’t necessary. Fan roots out and plant with the crown just above soil level. Firm in and water well.

Mulching
Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, protect roots, and keep fruit clean. Use straw, sugarcane mulch, or leaf litter, keeping it clear of the crown. In cooler climates, apply a light mulch to buffer young plants. In warmer, drier areas, mulch generously to conserve moisture. Reapply mulch in winter if needed, and always mulch before fruiting begins.

Watering
Water thoroughly after planting, then only when the top few centimetres are dry. As new growth appears, increase watering—especially during flowering and fruiting. Adjust frequency for your climate and container conditions. Water at the base in the morning to avoid wetting leaves and reducing disease.

Fertilising
Lowanna fruits over an extended season, so regular feeding supports ongoing production. Add compost or manure before planting. Use a small amount of balanced fertiliser or a diluted seaweed solution at planting. Apply liquid fertiliser fortnightly in early growth, especially for potted plants. Once established, feed in-ground plants every 6–8 weeks and continue fortnightly for containers. Resume feeding when growth restarts each year.

General Maintenance
Keep the soil weed-free and remove damaged leaves to boost airflow. Removing early flowers in the first 4–6 weeks helps the crown establish. Lowanna produces few runners, focusing on fruit. If runners form later, peg them down or use them to expand your patch. Replace plants every few years when vigour or productivity drops. Potted plants decline faster and benefit from more frequent renewal.

Harvesting
Lowanna produces a steady supply of berries through the warmer months (20–30 °C). Fruiting starts earlier in warmer climates and continues while conditions allow. Harvest when berries are fully red and firm. Use scissors or gently pinch stems. Pick in the morning for firmer berries or afternoon if eating fresh. Regular harvesting encourages new fruit to ripen. In warmer areas, occasional berries may appear as nights cool—harvest these as normal. Excellent for fresh eating, desserts, or preserves.

Longevity and Renewal
Strawberries remain productive for around 3–4 years in ideal conditions. Lowanna may start to decline by year two due to its energy focus on fruiting over runners. From the second year, begin renewing your patch using healthy runners or fresh plants. Refresh soil annually in pots and replace container plants every 2–3 years.

Pests and Diseases
Lowanna shows good resistance to common strawberry diseases, but general garden hygiene still helps. It may be affected by aphids, mites, slugs, grey mould, and fruit fly, especially in humid areas. Improve airflow, remove old leaves, and mulch to keep fruit dry. Use insecticidal soap or neem oil for aphids and mites. Apply fruit fly bait as needed and use bird netting to protect ripening fruit.

Safety
Strawberries are non-toxic to humans and pets. While the fruit is safe in small amounts, avoid letting pets chew stems or leaves. Seek medical or veterinary advice if concerns arise.

Supplied as bare-rooted runners.

Additional information

Price Code

C – Orange Pack

Botanical Name

Fragaria x ananassa

Quantity in Pack

4 Runners

Harvest Time

Strawberries are usually ready to harvest 11–12 weeks after planting, typically from spring until the first frost. Timing depends on your climate, with warmer regions seeing fruit earlier than cooler areas. Fruiting occurs once temperatures reach 20–30 °C, though seasonal conditions may affect the exact timing.

Planting Time

Plant from autumn to winter. In frost-prone areas, aim to plant before heavy frosts arrive to give roots time to establish. If frost is expected, protect young runners with mulch and/or frost cloth. Alternatively, start them in pots and transplant them once conditions improve.
In warmer climates, plant as soon as your runners arrive, ensuring the soil has cooled. Avoid planting during periods of intense heat for best results.

Planting Depth

Plant with the crown just above the soil surface, ensuring any visible growth remain exposed. Position the roots straight down, ensuring none are bent or curled upwards, then gently fan them out. Dig holes deep enough to accommodate the full root length. If roots are excessively long, they can be trimmed to around 10 cm.

Planting Width

In garden beds, vegetable plots, or directly in the ground, space strawberries 30–40 cm apart, with 40–60 cm between rows. In pots, they can be planted slightly closer, but ensure each plant has room to grow and is not touching others to maintain airflow and reduce the risk of disease.

Soil

Use rich, well-drained, organic soil with a slightly acidic pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Improve garden beds by digging in compost or well-rotted manure. In heavier soils, improve drainage by incorporating coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel.

For pots, containers, or hanging baskets, use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic fertiliser. Avoid heavy garden soil, and ensure containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.

How to Plant

Before planting, soak bare-rooted strawberries in clean water for up to an hour to rehydrate the roots. You can add a diluted seaweed solution to support early growth and reduce transplant shock. Avoid soaking for too long, as extended periods can cause the plants to deteriorate or rot.

Choose a spot in full sun, with light afternoon shade in warmer climates to prevent stress. Make sure the area is protected from strong winds, and use rich, organic, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0–6.5. Mix in compost or well-rotted manure before planting.

If your soil is heavy or drains poorly, improve it with additions like coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel. In these conditions, it's also best to plant on raised mounds within dug-out holes or use raised beds to lift the crowns above ground level—this helps prevent water from pooling around the crown. In well-draining soils, no mounding is needed; plant as normal.

Space plants 30–40 cm apart in garden beds, with 40–60 cm between rows. In containers or hanging baskets, you can space them closer, but ensure plants aren’t touching to maintain airflow and reduce the risk of disease.

For those with well-draining soil where raising the runners isn't needed, dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the full length of the roots. If the roots are too long, trim them to around 10 cm. Place the roots straight down and fan them out slightly. Set the crown just above soil level, keeping any visible growth exposed. Firm the soil gently around the plant and water in well.

To create a mound, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the root system, then backfill with improved soil to form a small, raised mound in the centre of the hole. Spread the roots evenly over the mound with the crown sat on top. The crown should be just above soil level—you should be able to see where the leaves emerge. Gently firm the soil around the roots, leaving the crown slightly exposed, and water in well.

Positioning the crown just above soil level helps prevent rot while ensuring the roots remain in contact with moisture below. If the crown is buried too deeply, it may rot. If planted too high, the roots can dry out and fail to establish.

Watering

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. During establishment, water only when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry—this encourages deeper root growth and reduces the risk of rot. Once new growth appears, increase watering frequency, particularly during flowering and fruiting, as consistent moisture is essential for healthy fruit development.

Only water when the surface begins to dry, and avoid watering during prolonged wet periods to prevent waterlogging and fungal issues. Once strawberries are no longer actively fruiting, reduce watering during dormancy. In areas with dry winters, occasional light watering may help prevent the plants from drying out.

Always water at the base of the plant, ideally in the morning, to keep foliage dry and reduce the risk of disease. In hot, dry, or windy conditions—and when growing in containers—check moisture levels regularly, as pots dry out more quickly than garden beds.

Signs of Under-Watering: Plants may wilt or look limp, with leaves curling or turning dry and crispy at the edges. Fruit may remain small, fail to fully ripen, or develop uneven colouring and poor flavour.

Signs of Over-Watering: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, wilting despite damp soil, and mushy crowns or roots are all signs of excess moisture. Overly wet conditions can also increase the risk of fungal issues like root rot and leaf spot. Adjust watering immediately if these symptoms appear.

Fertilise

Before planting, enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure. A small amount of balanced fertiliser at planting is optional. If runners weren’t soaked before planting, water them in with a diluted seaweed solution to reduce transplant shock, especially if no fertiliser was added.

If using a balanced fertiliser, use one that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)—often labelled as NPK on the packaging. A ratio such as 10:10:10 or 12:5:15 is suitable, or look for fertilisers specifically labelled for fruiting plants or strawberries. Liquid fertilisers for fruiting plants often include trace elements like calcium, magnesium, or iron, which support overall plant health and fruit quality.

During early growth, apply a liquid fertiliser fortnightly, particularly in pots. For newly planted strawberries in garden beds, continue fortnightly liquid feeding during their first growing season to support healthy establishment and early development. Once plants are established, in-ground strawberries can be fed every 6–8 weeks with a balanced fertiliser. In pots, continue fortnightly liquid feeding throughout the growing season (typically from spring through to summer). Always follow the instructions on the product label for application rates and timing.

Signs of nutrient deficiency: Look for pale or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, weak flowering, or poor fruit development. These can indicate the plant isn’t receiving enough nutrition.

Signs of over-fertilising: Plants may produce lush, leafy growth with few flowers or fruit. Leaf edges may appear scorched or brown-tipped, and roots can suffer damage, especially if fertiliser comes into direct contact with them.

Harvest

Strawberry ‘Lowanna’ produces a consistent but moderate flow of berries during the warmer months when temperatures are between 20-30 °C. They can produce fruit any time from spring through to the first frost. In warmer regions, established plants may begin cropping earlier. Timing may vary depending on seasonal conditions and your local climate.

Pick strawberries when they are bright red and plump, as they won’t continue to ripen once picked. Use clean scissors to cut the stem about 1 cm above the fruit, or pinch the stem just above the cap to avoid bruising.

For the best shelf life, harvest in the cool of the morning when berries are firmest—ideal if you're storing them in the fridge or using them for preserving, jams, or freezing. If the berries are being eaten the same day, pick in the afternoon when they’re at their most flavourful and aromatic, and avoid refrigerating to retain their taste.

Handle gently and pick regularly to ensure clean, healthy fruit throughout the season. Remove any damaged or mouldy fruit to reduce the risk of grey mould spreading. Good airflow, dry foliage, and base watering help reduce this risk during fruiting.

Maintenance

Strawberries typically remain productive for 3 to 4 years, though Lowanna may begin to decline earlier—often from year two—due to its energy being directed toward fruiting rather than runner formation. From this point, monitor plants for reduced vigour or yield. Refresh your patch by replacing older plants with new ones or by pegging down any strong runners that appear.

Container-grown strawberries generally have a shorter lifespan and often need refreshing more frequently. Top up with fresh potting mix annually and replace soil entirely every couple of years. If plants show signs of decline despite feeding, replant with young runners or start again with new plants in revitalised soil.

After harvesting, remove any yellowing or dead leaves by cutting them at the base to improve airflow and reduce disease risk. Clear away old mulch and any mouldy fruit to prevent pests and fungal issues. Apply mulch around plants to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep developing fruit clean. Use pea straw, sugarcane mulch, or other loose organic matter, keeping it clear of the crown to prevent rot. In frost-prone, high-rainfall areas, avoid heavy mulch directly over crowns—use light mulch or frost cloths instead. For extreme frost, both can be used together. If using frost cloths, remove them during the day or when temperatures rise above freezing to allow airflow and prevent overheating. In warmer, drier regions, mulch helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. Mulch can be refreshed throughout the season, but always apply before fruiting to keep fruit dry and reduce the risk of mould.

Weed regularly and maintain good airflow around the crowns to reduce disease risk and support healthy growth, especially in humid climates.

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