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Strawberry Adina

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Strawberry ‘Adina’ (Fragaria × ananassa) is a standout variety, often referred to as ‘the perfect strawberry’ due to its glossy red berries, sweet flavour, fragrant aroma, and low acid content. It produces large white flowers followed by a heavy, single crop lasting several weeks from spring into summer, with fruiting beginning as early as winter in warmer regions. Bred for performance, Adina is one of the best strawberry varieties for warmer climates, thanks to its excellent heat tolerance, low chill requirement, and good disease resistance, while still growing reliably in cooler regions. Perfect for garden beds, veggie patches, pots, containers, and hanging baskets, this versatile variety offers easy care and exceptional results. Whether enjoyed fresh, added to desserts, or turned into homemade jam, Adina brings sweetness and satisfaction to every harvest.

SKU: TCSTRADI004 Category: Tags: ,

Description

Strawberry Adina
Strawberry ‘Adina’ (Fragaria × ananassa) is an Australian-bred variety prized for its sweet flavour, fragrant aroma, and glossy red, wedge-shaped berries. With low chilling requirements and good disease resistance, it suits a range of climates and growing styles. Its compact, mounding habit fits well in garden beds, raised beds, large containers, and hanging baskets. Fruiting occurs once per year over several weeks, typically in spring to summer, or in winter in warmer areas, yielding a heavy crop of premium berries.

Climate Suitability
‘Adina’ grows well in cool to subtropical climates due to its low chilling requirement. In cooler regions, fruiting occurs in spring and summer. In warmer zones, including subtropics, fruit may ripen during winter. Fruiting time and yield vary slightly based on conditions and location.

When to Plant
Plant from autumn to winter once the ground cools. In frost-prone areas, plant early and protect crowns with light mulch or frost cloth. Avoid heavy mulch directly over crowns in wet areas. In cold zones, start in pots and transplant once frost risk passes.

How to Plant
Soak bare-rooted runners in water (with optional seaweed solution) for up to an hour before planting to support early establishment. Choose full sun with some afternoon shade in hot regions, and a sheltered spot protected from wind. Use rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0–6.5, improved with compost or manure. Mix in a slow-release fertiliser, keeping it clear of the crowns.

Plant in:
• Garden beds or raised beds: 30–40 cm apart, rows 40–60 cm apart.
• Containers: Space slightly closer while ensuring airflow between plants.

In heavy soils, plant in raised beds or mounds formed in dug-out holes to enhance drainage. This step isn’t needed in containers. Plant roots straight and fanned out, with the crown just above soil level. Firm soil around roots and water in well.

Mulching
Mulch helps conserve moisture, reduce weeds, protect roots, and keep fruit clean. Use straw, sugarcane mulch, or leaf litter, keeping it away from the crown to prevent rot. In frost-prone areas, apply a light mulch after planting. For added protection in extreme frost, combine mulch with frost cloth. In dry or warm regions, mulch generously to keep roots cool and soil moist. Once established, mulch may also be added in winter if needed. Always mulch before fruiting.

Watering
After planting, water deeply to settle the soil, then water only when the top few centimetres are dry. As new growth appears, increase frequency, especially during flowering and fruiting. Adjust watering to your climate and container size. Always water at the base in the morning to keep leaves dry and limit disease.

Fertilising
Before planting, enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure. You can also apply a small amount of balanced fertiliser. If runners weren’t soaked, water them in with a diluted seaweed solution after planting. Feed with liquid fertiliser every two weeks during early growth, especially for potted plants. Once established, in-ground plants benefit from fertilising every 6–8 weeks, while potted plants continue on a fortnightly liquid feeding cycle through the growing season. Resume feeding as new growth emerges each year.

General Maintenance
Keep the soil weed-free and remove old or damaged leaves to maintain airflow. Removing the first flowers within the initial weeks is optional but can encourage stronger plant development. Remove runners for the first two years to focus energy on fruiting. From year three, runners may be pegged down or used to expand the patch. Monitor soil moisture in hot weather and top up mulch as needed.

Harvesting
Adina produces a single, heavy crop over several weeks. Harvest berries when fully red and glossy. Use scissors to snip stems about 1 cm above the fruit or pinch gently by hand. Pick in the cool of morning for firmer fruit and longer shelf life. Regular picking encourages more fruit to ripen.

Longevity and Renewal
Strawberry plants remain productive for about 3–4 years. From year three, yields may reduce. Renew beds by replanting with healthy runners to maintain productivity. Strawberries in containers decline faster and should be refreshed yearly and replaced every 2–3 years.

Pests and Diseases
Adina has good resistance to powdery mildew but can still be affected by common issues like aphids, mites, fruit fly, grey mould, and slugs. Improve airflow, remove old leaves, and mulch to keep fruit clean. Use netting to protect from birds, beer traps for slugs, and hand-pick where possible. Neem oil or insecticidal soap may be used if pests appear. Secure netting properly to avoid trapping wildlife.

Safety
Strawberries are non-toxic to humans and pets. The fruit is generally safe in small amounts for pets but avoid letting them eat large quantities or chew stems and leaves. If any unusual symptoms occur, consult a vet or doctor.

Supplied as bare-rooted runners.

Additional information

Price Code

C – Orange Pack
Botanical Name

Fragaria x ananassa
Quantity in Pack

4 Runners
Harvest Time

Strawberry ‘Adina’ is typically ready to harvest 11–12 weeks after planting. Fruiting occurs once per year over several weeks, usually from spring to summer. In subtropical regions, established plants may begin producing as early as winter.
Please note: Timing may vary depending on seasonal conditions and your local climate.
Planting Time

Plant from autumn to winter. In frost-prone areas, aim to plant before heavy frosts arrive to give roots time to establish. If frost is expected, protect young runners with mulch and/or frost cloth. Alternatively, start them in pots and transplant them once conditions improve.
In warmer climates, wait until the soil has cooled before planting and avoid periods of intense heat for best results.
Planting Depth

Plant with the crown just above the soil surface, ensuring any visible growth remain exposed. Position the roots straight down, ensuring none are bent or curled upwards, then gently fan them out. Dig holes deep enough to accommodate the full root length. If roots are excessively long, they can be trimmed to around 10 cm.
Planting Width

In garden beds, vegetable plots, or directly in the ground, space strawberries 30–40 cm apart, with 40–60 cm between rows. In pots, they can be planted slightly closer, but ensure each plant has room to grow and is not touching others to maintain airflow and reduce the risk of disease.
Soil

Use rich, well-drained, organic soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.5. Improve garden beds by digging in compost or well-rotted manure. In heavier soils, improve drainage by incorporating coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel.

For pots, containers, or hanging baskets, use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic fertiliser. Avoid heavy garden soil, and ensure containers have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.
How to Plant

Before planting, soak bare-rooted strawberries in clean water for up to an hour to rehydrate the roots. You can add a diluted seaweed solution to support early growth and reduce transplant shock. Avoid soaking for too long, as extended periods can cause the plants to deteriorate or rot.

Choose a spot in full sun, with light afternoon shade in hot climates to prevent stress. Make sure the area is protected from strong winds, and use rich, organic, well-draining soil with a pH of 6.0–6.5. Mix in compost or well-rotted manure before planting.

If your soil is heavy or drains poorly, improve it with additions like coarse sand, perlite, or fine gravel. In these conditions, it's also best to plant on raised mounds within dug-out holes or use raised beds to lift the crowns above ground level—this helps prevent water from pooling around the crown. In well-draining soils, no mounding is needed; plant as normal.

Space plants 30–40 cm apart in garden beds, with 40–60 cm between rows. In containers or hanging baskets, you can space them closer, but ensure plants aren’t touching to maintain airflow and reduce the risk of disease.

For those with well-draining soil where raising the runners isn't needed, dig a hole deep enough to accommodate the full length of the roots. If the roots are too long, trim them to around 10 cm. Place the roots straight down and fan them out slightly. Set the crown just above soil level, keeping any visible growth exposed. Firm the soil gently around the plant and water in well.

To create a mound, dig a hole slightly wider and deeper than the root system, then backfill with improved soil to form a small, raised mound in the centre of the hole. Spread the roots evenly over the mound with the crown sat on top. The crown should be just above soil level—you should be able to see where the leaves emerge. Gently firm the soil around the roots, leaving the crown slightly exposed, and water in well.

Positioning the crown just above soil level helps prevent rot while ensuring the roots remain in contact with moisture below. If the crown is buried too deeply, it may rot. If planted too high, the roots can dry out and fail to establish.
Watering

Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil. During establishment, water only when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry—this encourages deeper root growth and reduces the risk of rot. Once new growth appears, increase watering frequency, particularly during flowering and fruiting, as consistent moisture is essential for healthy fruit development.

Only water when the surface begins to dry, and avoid watering during prolonged wet periods to prevent waterlogging and fungal issues. Once strawberries are no longer actively fruiting, reduce watering during dormancy. In areas with dry winters, occasional light watering may help prevent the plants from drying out.

Always water at the base of the plant, ideally in the morning, to keep foliage dry and reduce the risk of disease. In hot, dry, or windy conditions—and when growing in containers—check moisture levels regularly, as pots dry out more quickly than garden beds.

Signs of Under-Watering: Plants may wilt or look limp, with leaves curling or turning dry and crispy at the edges. Fruit may remain small, fail to fully ripen, or develop uneven colouring and poor flavour.

Signs of Over-Watering: Yellowing leaves, stunted growth, wilting despite damp soil, and mushy crowns or roots are all signs of excess moisture. Overly wet conditions can also increase the risk of fungal issues like root rot and leaf spot. Adjust watering immediately if these symptoms appear.
Fertilise

Before planting, enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure. A small amount of balanced fertiliser at planting is optional. If runners weren’t soaked before planting, water them in with a diluted seaweed solution to reduce transplant shock, especially if no fertiliser was added.

Use a balanced fertiliser that contains nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K)—often labelled as NPK on the packaging. A ratio such as 10:10:10 or 12:5:15 is suitable, or look for fertilisers specifically labelled for fruiting plants or strawberries. Liquid fertilisers for fruiting plants often include trace elements like calcium, magnesium, or iron, which support overall plant health and fruit quality.

During early growth, apply a liquid fertiliser fortnightly, particularly in pots. For newly planted strawberries in garden beds, continue fortnightly liquid feeding during their first growing season to support healthy establishment and early development. Once plants are established, in-ground strawberries can be fed every 6–8 weeks with a balanced fertiliser. In pots, continue fortnightly liquid feeding throughout the growing season (typically from spring through to summer). Always follow the instructions on the product label for application rates and timing.

Signs of nutrient deficiency: Look for pale or yellowing leaves, stunted growth, weak flowering, or poor fruit development. These can indicate the plant isn’t receiving enough nutrition.

Signs of over-fertilising: Plants may produce lush, leafy growth with few flowers or fruit. Leaf edges may appear scorched or brown-tipped, and roots can suffer damage, especially if fertiliser comes into direct contact with them.
Harvest

Strawberry ‘Adina’ typically produces one heavy crop per year, ready to harvest 11–12 weeks after planting. In cooler climates, fruiting usually occurs in spring or summer, while in subtropical climates, established plants may crop earlier in winter.

Pick strawberries when they are fully red, glossy, and plump, as they won’t continue to ripen once picked. Use clean scissors to cut the stem about 1 cm above the fruit, or pinch the stem just above the cap to avoid bruising.

For the best shelf life, harvest in the cool of the morning when berries are firmest—ideal if you're storing them in the fridge or using them for preserving, jams, or freezing. If the berries are being eaten the same day, pick in the afternoon when they’re at their most flavourful and aromatic, and avoid refrigerating to retain their taste.

Handle gently and pick regularly to ensure clean, healthy fruit throughout the season. Remove any damaged or mouldy fruit to reduce the risk of grey mould spreading. Good airflow, dry foliage, and base watering help reduce this risk during fruiting.
Maintenance

Strawberries typically remain productive for 3 to 4 years. After this, fruit size and yield decline. To maintain healthy growth, replace ageing plants with new ones grown from runners or sourced afresh.

In the first two years, remove runners to help plants focus on root and fruit development. From the third year, allow a few strong runners to root or pot them up for future planting. This helps renew your patch and prevents overcrowding. You can also root runners earlier if the plant shows signs of decline.

Container-grown strawberries often need refreshing more frequently. Top up with fresh potting mix annually and replace soil entirely every couple of years. If plants show signs of decline despite feeding, replant with young runners or start again with new plants in revitalised soil.

After harvesting, remove any yellowing or dead leaves by cutting them at the base to improve airflow and reduce disease risk. Clear away old mulch and any mouldy fruit to prevent pests and fungal issues. Apply mulch around plants to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and keep developing fruit clean. Use pea straw, sugarcane mulch, or other loose organic matter, keeping it clear of the crown to prevent rot. In frost-prone, high-rainfall areas, avoid heavy mulch directly over crowns—use light mulch or frost cloths instead. For extreme frost, both can be used together. If using frost cloths, remove them during the day or when temperatures rise above freezing to allow airflow and prevent overheating.In warmer, drier regions, mulch helps retain moisture and regulate soil temperature. In subtropical areas with high rainfall, delay mulching until conditions dry out. Mulch can be refreshed throughout the season, but always apply before fruiting to keep fruit dry and reduce the risk of mould.

Weed regularly and maintain airflow around the crowns to reduce disease risk and support healthy growth.
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