Description
Red Currant (Ribes rubrum)
Red currant is a hardy, self-fertile, deciduous shrub from the Grossulariaceae family, prized for its vibrant red berries and reliable cropping. It produces fruit on spurs along older wood, with pale green flowers in spring, followed by glossy red berries that ripen from mid-summer.
It establishes quickly, forming a strong framework in the first year. Fruiting typically begins in the second year, though full productivity may take up to five years. These plants grow to about 1 m high and 60 cm wide, making them ideal for garden beds, borders, raised beds, or large containers.
Red currants thrive in cool, temperate, and arid climates, especially where cold winters provide the chilling needed for consistent fruiting. Plant bare-rooted canes from autumn to winter while dormant to allow roots to establish before spring.
They grow best in full sun to part shade, with shelter from wind and rich, well-drained soil (pH 6–6.5). Though tolerant of heavier soils, drainage must be good.
Where to Plant
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Garden beds: Best for most gardeners; ensure sun, airflow, and shelter from wind.
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Raised beds: Ideal for poor or heavy soil, or in arid/warm areas to improve drainage and watering efficiency.
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Converted lawn or compacted ground: Use cardboard as a weed barrier, add compost and mulch, and plant through the surface layer.
- Large pots or containers: A great option for small spaces or patios. Use a pot at least 40–50 cm wide and deep with premium, free-draining potting mix. Place in full sun to part shade with protection from strong winds, and keep the soil consistently moist during fruiting.
How to Plant (Autumn to Late Winter)
1. Soak bare-rooted canes in water for 1–2 hours before planting.
2. Prepare the soil with compost and a complete fertiliser. In arid or Mediterranean climates, add moisture-retentive material such as coco coir or well-rotted straw.
3. Dig a hole wide enough to spread out the roots. In warmer areas, create a small mound at the base of the hole to improve drainage.
4. Plant at the same depth as it was growing in the nursery — do not bury the base.
5. Space 1–1.5 m between plants; 1.8–2.5 m between rows.
6. Water in well and mulch generously, keeping mulch clear of the main stem.
7. Prune stems to 10–30 cm above ground level after planting to promote strong branching.
Mulching, Fertilising & Watering
- Mulch: Apply organic mulch (compost, straw, or sugarcane) around the base to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Keep mulch 5–10 cm away from the stems and top up in late spring and late summer as needed.
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Fertilising: Red currants are hungry feeders and should be fertilised each spring with a general-purpose organic fertiliser. Top-dress with well-rotted manure or compost to maintain soil fertility.
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Watering: Maintain consistent moisture, especially during flowering and fruit development. Increase watering during hot or dry weather, and reduce in winter — but don’t allow the soil to fully dry out.
Pruning
Red currants produce fruit on older wood, mainly on 2- to 3-year-old spurs. Regular pruning helps maintain a healthy, open structure, improves airflow, and supports reliable cropping. Aim to develop a goblet-shaped bush that allows light and air to reach the centre.
Prune in winter while the plant is dormant.
In frost-prone areas, prune in late winter to protect developing buds.
Establishment Phase (Years 1–2)
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After planting, cut all stems to 10–30 cm above the ground to encourage strong new shoots.
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First winter: Keep 3–5 strong, outward-facing shoots and cut them back by half. Remove all others.
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Second winter: Maintain 6–8 healthy branches. Shorten new growth by half, remove any weak, inward, or crossing branches, and prune side shoots to 2–4 buds.
Tip: Always cut just above a bud. Use an upward-facing bud for vertical growth or an outward-facing bud to keep the centre open.
Maintenance (Year 3 Onward)
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Keep 8–12 main branches.
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On fruiting branches, trim last year’s small side shoots back to 1 bud to form short, productive fruiting spurs.
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Trim newer side shoots that haven’t fruited yet to 2–4 buds to prepare them for future cropping.
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Remove any low, crowded, crossing, or old branches to keep the bush open and productive.
How to spot old wood:
Older branches are usually thicker, darker, and woodier. These are less fruitful and should be removed to make room for younger, more productive stems.
Optional Mid-Summer Pruning
For vigorous plants, you can lightly prune in mid-summer after the first flush of growth:
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Shorten leafy side shoots to around five leaves.
This improves airflow, encourages bud formation for next year’s fruit, and helps keep the plant’s shape neat and manageable.
Harvesting
Harvest red currants in early to mid-summer, once berries are firm, bright red, and fully coloured. Pick entire trusses for ease and to avoid damaging the fruit. Crops begin from the second year, though some plants may take longer to mature. The berries are excellent for eating fresh or using in baking, jams, jellies, sauces, and drinks. They store well in the fridge for a few days or can be frozen immediately for longer-term storage.
Pests & Diseases
Red currants are generally low-maintenance, but occasional issues may occur. Monitor regularly and maintain airflow through pruning.
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Pests: Aphids and red spider mites may occur. Birds are also known to target ripening fruit, so consider using netting for protection.
- Diseases: Powdery mildew and rust are the most common fungal problems, especially in humid or crowded conditions. Leaf spot can also occur in wetter areas. Maintain good airflow, avoid overhead watering, and remove any affected material. Organic treatments may be applied if needed.
Plant Safety
Grown for their edible berries. Take care when handling plants and supervise young children and pets around the shrub.
Supplied as a bare-rooted cane.