Description
Red Currant (Ribes rubrum)
Red Currant is a hardy, self-fertile, deciduous shrub in the Grossulariaceae family, prized for its vibrant red berries and reliable cropping. It produces fruit on 2 to 3 year old canes, with clusters of small flowers appearing in spring and developing into bright red berries by early to mid-summer.
They establish quickly, forming a strong framework in the first year. Fruiting typically begins in the second or third year, though full productivity may take up to five years. These plants grow to about 1 metre high and 60 cm wide, making them ideal for garden beds, borders, raised beds, or large containers. They are productive and long-lived, so planting them in a permanent position is recommended.
Red Currants thrive in cool, temperate, and arid climates, especially where cold winters provide the chilling needed for consistent fruiting. Plant bare-rooted canes from autumn to early spring while dormant to establish strong roots before growth resumes.
They grow best in full sun to part shade, with shelter from damaging winds, in rich, moist, well-drained soil (pH 6–6.5). Though tolerant of heavier soils, drainage is key for healthy growth.
Where to Plant
• Garden beds: Best for most gardeners. Select a location with full sun, good airflow, and shelter from wind.
• Raised beds: Ideal for poor or heavy soil, or in arid/warm areas to improve drainage and watering efficiency.
• Converted lawn or compacted ground: Use cardboard as a weed barrier, add compost and mulch, and plant through the surface layer.
• Large pots or containers: A great option for small spaces or patios.
How to Plant
1. Soak bare-rooted canes in water for 1–2 hours before planting.
2. Prepare the soil with compost and a complete fertiliser.
3. Dig a hole wide enough to spread out the roots. In warmer areas, create a small mound at the base of the hole to improve drainage.
4. Plant so the core sits just below the surface at the same depth as the soil mark.
5. Space 1–1.5 m between plants; 1.8–2.5 m between rows.
6. Water in well and mulch generously, keeping mulch clear of the main stem.
7. Prune stems to 10–30 cm above ground level after planting to promote strong branching.
Planting in Containers: Follow these steps but skip spacing and mounding. Use a large pot with good drainage. Plant one cane per pot, water well, mulch lightly, and prune back to encourage branching.
Mulching, Fertilising & Watering
• Mulch: Apply organic mulch around the base to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Keep mulch away from the stems, and top up in late spring and late summer, or as needed.
• Fertilising: Fertilise each spring with a general-purpose organic fertiliser. Topdress with well-rotted manure or compost to maintain soil fertility.
• Watering: Maintain consistent moisture, especially during flowering and fruit development. Increase watering during hot or dry weather and reduce in winter, but don’t allow the soil to fully dry out.
Pruning
Red Currants produce fruit on wood that is 2 to 3 years old. Regular pruning helps maintain a healthy, open structure, improves airflow, and supports reliable cropping. Aim to develop a goblet-shaped bush that allows light and air to reach the centre. Prune every winter while the plant is dormant. In frost-prone areas, prune in late winter to protect developing buds.
Establishment Phase (Years 1–2)
• First winter: Keep 3–5 strong, outward-facing shoots and cut them back by half. Remove all others.
• Second winter: Retain 6–8 healthy branches. Shorten new growth by half, remove any weak, inward, or crossing branches, and prune side shoots to 2–4 buds.
Tip: Always cut just above a bud. Use an upward-facing bud for vertical growth or an outward-facing bud to keep the centre open.
Maintenance (Year 3 Onward)
• Keep 8–12 main branches.
• Shorten main branches by a quarter to control size, encourage new growth, and maintain a balanced shape.
• On fruiting branches, trim last year’s small side shoots back to 1 bud.
• Trim newer side shoots that haven’t fruited yet to 2–4 buds.
• Remove any low, crowded, crossing, or old branches to keep the bush open and productive.
How to spot old wood: Older branches are typically thicker, darker, and woodier. These are less fruitful and should be removed to make room for younger, more productive stems. Anything older than 5 years is considered old wood, as red currants fruit best on canes that are 2 to 3 years old.
Optional Summer Pruning
For vigorous plants, lightly prune after the first flush of growth. Shorten leafy side shoots to around five leaves. This improves airflow, encourages bud formation for next year’s fruit, and helps keep the plant’s shape manageable.
Harvesting
Harvest in early to mid-summer, once berries are firm, bright red, and fully coloured. For the best flavour, pick fruit about a week after they first turn red. Pick entire trusses for ease and to avoid damage. Crops typically begin to produce in the second year, although some plants may take longer to mature. The berries are excellent for eating fresh or using in baking, jams, jellies, sauces, and drinks. Store in the fridge for a few days or freeze immediately for longer use.
Pests & Diseases
Red Currants are generally low-maintenance, but occasional issues may arise. Regular monitoring and maintaining good airflow through pruning will help reduce problems.
• Pests: Aphids and red spider mites can appear during the growing season. Birds are also known to target ripening fruit, so use netting to protect your crop.
• Diseases: Powdery mildew and rust are the most common fungal issues, particularly in humid or crowded conditions. Leaf spot may occur in wetter climates. Ensure good airflow, avoid overhead watering, and remove affected leaves. Organic treatments can be used if needed.
Safety
Red Currants are grown for their edible berries; however, no other part of the plant should be consumed. As with any living plant, handle carefully and supervise children and pets around the shrub.
Supplied as a bare-rooted cane.