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Raspberry Heritage

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Start the autumn season off strong with Raspberry ‘Heritage’ (Rubus idaeus x Rubus hybrids). This early autumn-bearing variety begins fruiting in late summer and continues well into autumn, making it a great option for berry lovers who want to extend their harvest beyond the usual summer window, or for those often away during peak fruiting months. Its sweet, firm, deep red berries grow on first-year canes and are backed by strong disease resistance and dependable performance. As a low-chill variety, it’s well suited to a wide range of climates, including warmer regions. Easy to prune and simple to manage, ‘Heritage’ is ideal for beginners and anyone wanting a productive, low-maintenance crop. Grow in the ground or a large pot and enjoy weeks of homegrown fruit with minimal effort.

Description

Raspberry ‘Heritage’
Raspberry ‘Heritage’ (Rubus idaeus ‘Heritage’, family Rosaceae) is a vigorous, disease-resistant autumn-bearing raspberry ideal for Australian gardens. It produces a reliable crop of large, firm red berries on first-year canes from late summer through to autumn, with fruiting lasting up to 12 weeks from February in many regions. Berries are sweet and excellent for fresh eating, preserving, or freezing. With strong, upright canes and excellent adaptability, ‘Heritage’ performs well in cool, temperate, arid, and mild-winter climates.

Growth Habit
A clump-forming, deciduous raspberry with strong, upright canes that reach 1–1.5 m tall and around 50 cm wide. As a primocane type, it fruits on first-year canes, which are pruned out after harvest. New canes emerge annually from the crown or underground suckers and benefit from support once fruit forms.

Climate Suitability
‘Heritage’ suits a wide range of climates. It is both frost-hardy and heat-tolerant, thriving in areas with long summers and mild autumns. Afternoon shade helps reduce stress in hotter climates, and its low chill requirement makes it suitable for warmer regions where traditional raspberries may not perform as well.

Position & Soil
Plant in a permanent position with:
• Full sun to part shade
• Well-drained, moderately acidic soil
• Protection from strong winds
• Good airflow to reduce disease risk

Prepare the soil before planting by enriching it with well-rotted manure or compost, and consider applying a complete fertiliser to support strong early growth. Avoid low-lying, damp areas where drainage is poor.

Training
Canes benefit from support as fruit develops. Use a trellis, wire, or fence system to keep the canes upright, reduce breakage, and improve airflow. Tie canes loosely to the support to avoid damage and allow flexibility as they grow. Supporting the canes also makes harvesting easier and keeps fruit clean by preventing it from touching the ground.

Planting
• Soak bare-rooted canes in water for 1–2 hours before planting to rehydrate roots
• Plant with roots around 10 cm deep and the crown just below the soil surface
• Avoid planting too deep (risk of rot) or too shallow (exposed roots)
• Dig a wide, deep hole to comfortably spread roots
• Water in thoroughly after planting

Growing in Pots
Raspberry ‘Heritage’ grows well in large pots. Choose containers at least 40 cm deep and wide, filled with premium potting mix enriched with compost. Plant one cane per pot to prevent overcrowding. Position in full sun to part shade, with protection from harsh afternoon sun.

Fertilising
Feed in late winter to early spring as new growth begins, using a complete fertiliser or well-composted organic matter. Apply before mulching and lightly work into the soil. In nutrient-poor soils, a second light feed in early summer may be helpful. Avoid overfeeding, which may result in excessive leafy growth.

Mulching
Apply mulch in late winter to early spring after pruning and fertilising. Mulching helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and protect roots from heat or cold. Keep mulch away from cane bases to prevent rot and top up during the growing season as needed.

Watering
Water regularly during the growing season, especially in dry or windy weather and while fruiting. Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Potted plants dry out faster and may need more frequent watering. Reduce watering in winter when dormant.

Pruning
‘Heritage’ fruits on first-year canes that grow and fruit within the same season. Once the plant becomes dormant, prune all canes to ground level in mid to late winter to encourage strong new growth in spring. In warmer climates, tip-pruning new canes in spring (at around 60 cm) can help delay fruiting slightly and encourage lateral branching, allowing the plant to avoid setting fruit during the hottest part of late summer. This delay is usually only by a couple of weeks and still fits comfortably within the typical February to April fruiting window. In cooler climates, leaving the cane tips intact allows fruit to appear earlier near the top of the cane, giving it more time to ripen before the weather cools. Tip-pruning isn’t required — plants will still produce well without it, making pruning simple and flexible.

Suckers & Runners
‘Heritage’ sends up suckers from its root system. Remove unwanted shoots to avoid overcrowding and keep the bed manageable. Strong suckers may be left to establish new plants. Maintain a 40–50 cm wide growing strip for good airflow and access.

Harvest
Raspberries are ready to harvest when the fruit is fully coloured, plump, and detaches easily from the plant. Check plants every few days during the harvest period and pick fruit promptly to maintain quality and prevent spoilage. Handle with care, as raspberries are delicate and bruise easily. Store in shallow containers and refrigerate soon after picking for best results.

Pests and Diseases
Raspberries Heritage’ is well known for its strong disease resistance, making it a reliable and low-maintenance choice for home gardeners. While it’s less prone to common fungal problems such as grey mould, cane blight, or rust, maintaining good airflow, avoiding overhead watering, and removing any damaged material still helps support healthy growth. Aphids and scale may occasionally appear and can be controlled with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil if needed. Fruit fly may be a concern in some regions, and birds are known to target ripening berries — use netting to protect your crop. Check plants regularly throughout the season to keep them at their best.

Safety
The fruit is edible, but other plant parts should not be consumed. Wear gloves when pruning to avoid scratches from the thorny canes and supervise children and pets during fruiting.

Supplied as a bare-rooted cane.

Additional information

Price Code

E – Green Pack

Botanical Name

Rubus idaeus x Rubus hybrids

Quantity in Pack

2 Canes

Harvest Time

February to April

Planting Time

Plant from winter to early spring. Ensure the soil is workable, not frozen or waterlogged. Protect young plants from frost by covering them with frost cloth or planting them in pots so they can be moved into the ground when conditions are suitable.

Planting Depth

Plant so that the roots sit approximately 10 cm deep, with the crown positioned just below the soil surface — no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deep, as this can cause rot, or too shallow, which may expose the roots. Ensure the hole is wide and deep enough to comfortably spread the roots.

The crown is the point where the roots meet the base of the canes — often slightly swollen and marked with small buds. This should sit just below the soil surface after planting.

Planting Width

Plant 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 metres between each row.

Soil

Raspberries grow best in rich, well-drained soil with a moderately acidic profile. To prevent root rot, avoid waterlogged conditions by ensuring the planting area drains well. Before planting, improve the soil by incorporating well-rotted compost or aged manure — this enhances fertility, structure, and moisture retention, all of which support strong cane growth and healthy root development.

In heavy clay soils, work in plenty of organic matter to improve drainage. For sandy soils, add compost, aged manure, or coco peat to help retain moisture and nutrients. Applying mulch on top can also reduce evaporation and further improve water retention.

Well-prepared soil encourages vigorous growth and supports productive harvests year after year.

For potted raspberries, use a high-quality, free-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter to provide a balanced growing environment and maintain consistent growth.

How to Plant

Choose a sunny position with at least 6 hours of direct sun daily, preferably with some afternoon shade to help reduce heat stress. Avoid planting in too much shade, as this can reduce fruiting and lead to weak, leggy growth. Good airflow is important to help prevent disease.

Before planting, it's recommended (though not essential) to soak bare-root canes in water for 1–2 hours. This helps rehydrate the roots after storage and gives the plant a stronger start in the soil. Prepare the site by enriching the soil with well-rotted compost or manure before digging.

Dig a hole wide and deep enough to spread the roots comfortably. Plant so the roots sit about 10 cm deep, with the crown just below the soil surface — no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deeply, as this can cause rot. In poorly drained areas, create a small mound at the base of the planting hole and spread the roots over it, or plant in raised beds to improve drainage.

Space canes 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 m between rows for airflow and maintenance. Backfill with soil or a soil-compost mix, firm gently around the roots to remove air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the soil.

After planting, apply a small amount of complete fertiliser around the base to support early growth. Well-rotted compost or manure can also be used as a top dressing beneath the mulch to enrich the soil further.

Apply mulch around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it a few centimetres clear of the crown. You can use straw, sugarcane mulch, or well-rotted compost or manure as a mulch layer. If using compost or manure alone, apply generously and reapply as needed to maintain coverage.

For pots, use one cane per container at least 40 cm deep and wide, filled with premium potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter. After planting, apply a small amount of complete fertiliser and water well. Ensure good drainage and follow the same planting principles.

Watering

Raspberries require consistent moisture throughout the growing season to support healthy cane growth, flowering, and fruiting. Water deeply and regularly, especially during dry, windy, or hot weather. Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged — overly wet soil can lead to root rot, particularly in heavy or poorly drained areas. If drainage is an issue, improve the soil with compost or organic matter, or consider planting on a slight mound to help water drain away from the roots. Raised beds or containers with drainage holes are also ideal for preventing water from collecting around the crown.

During flowering and fruit development, avoid allowing the soil to dry out, as irregular watering can cause poor fruit set, small berries, or fruit drop. In sandy soils or warmer climates, more frequent watering may be necessary. Early morning is the best time to water, as it allows moisture to reach the roots before the heat of the day and reduces the risk of fungal disease.

Potted raspberries require closer attention, as containers dry out much faster than garden beds. Check regularly, especially in hot weather, and water when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry. Always ensure pots have good drainage.

Mulching is an excellent companion to watering. A generous layer of mulch helps retain soil moisture, reduce evaporation, and protect roots from heat stress. It also lowers the frequency of watering, particularly in warm or exposed locations. Apply mulch in late winter to early spring after pruning and fertilising, and top up as needed throughout the growing season. Keep mulch a few centimetres away from cane bases to prevent stem rot.

As the plant enters dormancy in winter, watering should be reduced or stopped entirely. In areas with natural winter rainfall or where temperatures drop and frost is common, additional watering is not needed. In warmer or drier climates — particularly arid regions — occasional deep watering may be beneficial during extended dry spells, but only when the soil is dry several centimetres down and conditions are mild. Avoid watering during freezing conditions or periods of heavy rain, and ensure good drainage throughout the cooler months.

Fertilise

Raspberries benefit from a balanced feeding program to support strong cane growth, healthy foliage, and productive harvests.

Apply a complete fertiliser in late winter to early spring, just as new growth begins. This supplies essential nutrients — including nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — to promote vigorous shoot development and prepare the plant for the season ahead. Even if compost or manure has been added, a complete fertiliser is often recommended to ensure plants receive an immediate and balanced supply of nutrients.

From the first year onward, you can use a slow-release fertiliser labelled as “fruit and citrus” or “berries and vines” to provide long-lasting nutrition throughout the growing season. For a quick boost, apply a liquid fertiliser such as one labelled “all-purpose” or “vegetable and herb” every 4–6 weeks during spring and early summer. Organic fertilisers like aged manure, blood and bone, or pelletised chicken manure (labelled “certified organic” or “suitable for fruiting plants”) can be added before planting, in spring, or after fruiting to improve soil health and support long-term fertility.

If growth appears weak, leaves look pale or yellow, or fruiting is poor, a second light feed in early summer can help restore vigour. Avoid over-fertilising, particularly with high-nitrogen products, as this can lead to lush, leafy growth at the expense of fruit and may increase susceptibility to disease. Signs of over-fertilising include excessive soft foliage, poor fruit set, dark green leaves with scorched tips, or floppy canes that are more prone to pests and weather damage.

Stop fertilising once the fruiting season ends, as the plant prepares for dormancy and no longer requires additional nutrients. In most climates, wait until late winter to early spring to apply mulch — after pruning and fertilising — to help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and protect the root zone as new growth begins. In arid climates, mulch may be maintained year-round and topped up as needed to reduce water loss and insulate the soil.

For potted raspberries, mix a slow-release fertiliser into the potting mix at planting. Then, apply a diluted liquid feed every 4–6 weeks during the growing season. Stop feeding in late summer to allow the plant to slow down naturally before dormancy. Potted plants often need more frequent feeding due to limited soil volume and faster nutrient depletion.

Pruning

‘Heritage’ fruits on first-year canes that grow and fruit in the same season. As the plant becomes dormant over winter, all fruiting canes should be cut back to ground level. In most regions, pruning is best done in mid to late winter, once the leaves have dropped and the plant is clearly dormant. This encourages strong new growth in early spring and supports healthy fruiting later in the year.

In warmer climates, gardeners may choose to tip-prune new canes in spring when they reach around 60 cm and are still actively growing. This delays fruiting slightly — typically by a couple of weeks — which can help avoid flowering and setting fruit during the hottest part of late summer. It also encourages lateral shoots lower on the cane, where fruit may be better protected from heat. Despite the slight delay, fruit will still develop well within the typical February to April fruiting window.

In cooler climates, leaving the cane tips intact allows fruiting to begin earlier near the top of the cane, where it receives maximum sunlight and has a better chance to ripen before temperatures drop.

Tip-pruning is not required for a productive crop — most fruit naturally forms toward the top of each cane, even without it, and plants will still produce a generous harvest whether or not tip-pruning is performed.

Don’t be alarmed by the harshness of pruning — removing all the old canes may seem drastic, but it’s exactly what ‘Heritage’ needs. New canes will emerge in early spring and go on to produce fruit within the same season.

Harvest

Raspberries are best harvested when they are fully ripe — the fruit should be evenly coloured, plump, and come away easily from the plant without resistance. If a berry doesn’t detach with a gentle pull, it likely needs more time to ripen.

Check plants every two to three days during the harvest period, as ripe fruit can spoil quickly if left too long on the cane. Harvest during the cooler part of the day, preferably in the morning, and avoid picking in wet conditions to reduce the risk of fungal issues such as grey mould.

Raspberries are soft and highly perishable, so handle them gently and use shallow containers to avoid bruising. Store fruit in the fridge as soon as possible, and consume within a few days for best quality. For longer storage, raspberries freeze well — place them in a single layer on a tray until firm, then transfer to sealed containers or bags.

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