Raspberry Golden Yellow - Trenton Cottage
Raspberry Golden Yellow - Trenton Cottage
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Raspberry Golden Yellow

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Add a pop of sunshine to your garden with Raspberry Golden Yellow (Rubus idaeus)! This eye-catching variety produces an abundance of sweet-tart golden berries with a smooth, mild flavour that’s less acidic than red raspberries — perfect for fresh snacking, jams, baking, and freezing. Fruiting from mid to late summer and into autumn, it thrives across cool, temperate, and arid climates. A floricane type, it fruits on second-year canes and is surprisingly low-fuss. It can be grown in the ground or in large pots and containers, making it a versatile choice for any space. Even better, the pale colour means it’s often overlooked by birds, giving you more to enjoy. A rare and rewarding find, Raspberry Golden Yellow is perfect for gardeners looking to grow something truly unique, beautiful, and bursting with flavour.

SKU: TCRASGYE001 Category: Tags: ,

Description

Raspberry Golden Yellow
Raspberry Golden Yellow (Rubus idaeus, family Rosaceae) is a floricane-bearing variety that produces fruit on second-year canes from summer to autumn. The berries are medium-sized with a soft texture and a sweet-tart flavour that’s milder and less acidic than red raspberries. Their distinctive golden colour and subtle citrus undertones make them ideal for fresh eating or use in desserts.

Growth Habit
This is a perennial plant with biennial canes. In the first year, canes grow vegetatively (primocanes). In their second year, they become floricanes, producing white flowers followed by fruit before dying back. Removing spent canes after harvest encourages healthy growth and maintains productivity. Plants typically grow to around 1.5 m tall and 50 cm wide.

Climate Suitability
Golden Yellow grows vigorously in cool, temperate, and arid climates. It performs best in well-drained soil, in full sun with some protection from hot afternoon sun, and in a position sheltered from strong winds.

Uses and Nutritional Content

Golden Yellow raspberries add beauty to the garden and versatility to the kitchen. Their sweet-tart flavour and soft texture make them ideal for fresh eating, desserts, baking, jams, and freezing. They also make a colourful garnish for drinks and platters. Rich in vitamin C, fibre, and antioxidants, golden raspberries offer a slightly different phytonutrient profile to red varieties while still delivering excellent nutritional value.

When to Plant

Plant Raspberry ‘Golden Yellow’ in winter or early spring while dormant. Only plant when the soil is not frozen or waterlogged, and aim to plant by early spring for best results. If you cannot plant immediately, store the canes in a cool, dry place, and plant them as soon as possible to avoid stress.

Where to Plant

Plant in a permanent position with full sun to part shade, either in the ground or in a pot, ensuring good airflow and well-drained soil. In hot regions, afternoon shade is beneficial to protect the leaves and fruit. Choose a site sheltered from strong winds to prevent cane breakage and stress. Avoid low-lying or damp areas where poor drainage may lead to root problems.

Soil Requirements

Raspberries grow best in rich, moist, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.5–6.8. Before planting, improve fertility and drainage with compost or well-rotted manure worked into the planting area.

Training

Raspberries need support due to their long, flexible canes. Use a trellis, wire, or fence — suitable for both garden beds and large pots. In the first year, primocanes (green canes) grow and establish but do not fruit. These canes will return the following spring as floricanes.

From the second year onward, tie the floricanes to one side of the support and the new season’s primocanes to the other. This keeps fruiting and non-fruiting canes organised, improves airflow, helps prevent damage, and makes harvesting and annual pruning easier.

How to Plant

  • Rehydrate Canes: Soak canes in clean water for 1–2 hours before planting to rehydrate the roots.
  • Prepare Site: Dig a hole wide and deep enough to spread the roots comfortably.
  • Plant depth: Position the cane so the crown (where roots meet the cane) is just below soil level — no more than a few centimetres deep.
  • Backfill: Use the original soil or a soil-compost mix and firm down gently.
  • Water in thoroughly: Then apply mulch around the base, keeping it away from the crown.
  • Spacing: Allow 40–60 cm between plants and 1.5 m between rows.

Growing in Pots
If planting in a pot, choose one that is at least 40 cm deep and wide with good drainage, and fill it with a premium potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter. Follow the same planting and care steps as for growing in the ground. Plant only one cane per pot to reduce overcrowding, allow adequate airflow, and ensure the plant has enough space to develop a strong root system.

Pruning
In the first year, primocanes (green canes) grow but don’t fruit. The following year, these become floricanes and will flower and fruit. After harvesting, cut floricanes to the base and tie new primocanes to the opposite side. Remove any weak, damaged, or diseased canes, and keep the 6–8 strongest primocanes per plant. In spring, once primocanes reach 1.2–1.5 m, tip-prune just above a node, removing 5–10 cm to encourage branching and improve fruiting in summer. In cold climates, tip-pruning can be delayed until early spring to avoid removing frost-damaged tips more than once.

Managing Runners

If runners or suckers appear, remove them promptly to prevent overcrowding. Alternatively, you can allow some to root if you wish to propagate new plants.

Care and Maintenance

Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during spring and summer when plants are actively growing. Always water at the base to avoid wetting the foliage, and ensure the soil drains freely to prevent root rot.

Feeding: In early spring, apply a complete fertiliser such as fish emulsion, blood and bone, compost, or well-rotted manure to support strong growth. A light summer feed with a high-potassium fertiliser (like tomato food or sulphate of potash) can help encourage fruiting and support primocane development, particularly in pots. No feeding is needed in autumn. In winter, apply compost and mulch to nourish the soil and protect the roots from temperature extremes.

Harvesting

Raspberry Golden Yellow fruits ripen over a short period during summer, but this can vary from early summer to mid-autumn depending on your climate and region. The fruit is ready when it is fully coloured, plump, and easily detaches from the plant. Harvest every few days to ensure optimal freshness.

Pests and Diseases

Common pests include aphids, spider mites, fruit flies, and birds. Control with insecticidal soap, netting, and prompt harvesting. Diseases such as Botrytis (grey mould) and rust can appear in humid conditions—ensure good airflow and remove infected material.

Safety

Raspberry Golden Yellow fruit is edible; however, we do not recommend consuming any other part of the plant, including the leaves, roots, or canes. Handle with care, wear gloves when pruning, and supervise children and pets around growing canes.

Supplied as a bare-rooted cane.

Additional information

Price Code

D – Purple Pack
Botanical Name

Rubus idaeus
Quantity in Pack

1 Cane
Harvest Time

Summer to Autumn
Planting Time

Plant in winter to early spring. Ensure the soil is workable, not frozen or waterlogged. Protect young plants from frost by covering them with frost cloth or planting them in pots so they can be moved into the ground when conditions are suitable.
Planting Depth

Plant so that the roots sit approximately 10 cm deep, with the crown positioned just below the soil surface — no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deep, as this can cause rot, or too shallow, which may expose the roots. Ensure the hole is wide and deep enough to comfortably spread the roots.

The crown is the point where the roots meet the base of the canes — often slightly swollen and marked with small buds. This should sit just below the soil surface after planting.
Planting Width

Plant 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 metres between each row.
Soil

Use rich, well-drained, and moist soil. For optimal growth, ensure the soil is well-drained to avoid waterlogging, which can lead to root rot.
Aim for a slightly acidic to near neutral pH, between 6.5 and 6.8.
Enrich the soil with well-rotted compost or aged manure to improve fertility, moisture retention, and soil structure.

When growing in pots, use a high-quality, free-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter to support healthy root development and consistent growth.

Avoid heavy clay soils unless they can be improved with organic matter for better drainage. Well-prepared soil will support healthy root development and vigorous cane growth, leading to bountiful fruit production.

When growing in pots, use a high-quality, free-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter to support healthy root development and consistent growth.
How to Plant

Choose a sunny spot that receives at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day. In areas with extreme heat, some afternoon shade can help reduce plant stress, particularly in exposed locations. However, avoid planting in areas with too much shade, as this can reduce fruit production and lead to weak, leggy growth. Good airflow is also important to help prevent disease.

If planting in a windy location, consider installing a windbreak to shield plants from strong, damaging gusts. This protects the canes and supports healthy growth.

Dig a hole wide and deep enough to comfortably spread the roots. Position the plant so that the roots sit approximately 10 cm deep, with the crown positioned just below the soil surface — no more than a few centimetres. This promotes strong root growth for better establishment and drought resilience, but avoid planting too deeply, as this can lead to cane rot or poor growth.

Space plants approximately 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 metre between rows to allow for airflow and ease of maintenance.

Backfill the hole with the original soil or a mix of soil and compost, then gently firm the soil around the roots to remove air pockets.

If your soil is slow-draining, create a small mound at the base of the hole and spread the roots over it to improve drainage and prevent pooling. Alternatively, plant in raised beds to further enhance drainage.

Water thoroughly after planting to help settle the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged.

In areas with drier conditions or low humidity, improve water retention by mixing in organic matter like compost or coco peat at planting and applying mulch to help keep the soil cool and moist.

Finish by applying a generous layer of mulch, such as straw, sugarcane, or compost, around the base of the plant. Keep mulch a few centimetres clear of the crown to prevent rot.

If planting in a pot, choose one that is at least 40 cm deep and wide with good drainage, and fill it with a premium potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter. Follow the same planting and care steps as for growing in the ground. Plant only one cane per pot to reduce overcrowding, allow adequate airflow, and ensure the plant has enough space to develop a strong root system.
Watering

Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the growing and fruiting season. This ensures the plant has enough water to support healthy growth and fruit production. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases. Use a watering can or hose to apply water slowly and evenly.

To avoid waterlogging, ensure your soil is well-drained. If the soil tends to retain water, consider improving drainage by adding organic matter like compost, or plant on a slight mound to help water flow away from the roots. Raised beds or containers with drainage holes also help keep water from collecting around the roots.

In containers, check the moisture regularly as pots can dry out faster than garden beds. Adjust watering accordingly, especially in warmer weather.

During winter, water only if the soil is dry, particularly in drier climates, as the plant is dormant and requires minimal water. Avoid watering during frost periods, as frozen soil can prevent water absorption and may damage the roots.
Fertilise

In early spring, apply a complete fertiliser to support strong cane growth. Use granular fertiliser, fish emulsion, blood and bone, compost, or well-rotted manure. In summer, you can apply a high-potassium fertiliser, such as sulphate of potash or a tomato-specific blend, to support healthy primocane growth for next year’s crop—this is especially helpful in poor soils or potted plants. No feeding is needed after fruiting finishes. In winter, avoid fertilising—apply compost and mulch instead to protect the roots and improve the soil.
In subsequent years, continue to apply fertiliser in spring to support healthy growth and fruit production. Even if you enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure in winter, a balanced fertiliser in spring will maintain plant vitality and ensure good yields.
Pruning

Raspberry ‘Golden Yellow’ produces fruit on second-year canes, known as floricanes. These woody canes will not fruit again and should be cut back to ground level after harvest. Alternatively, pruning can be carried out in winter once the canes have dropped their leaves. In winter, floricanes are usually grey-brown, brittle, and rough in texture, while primocanes remain smoother, more flexible, and often show green to reddish colouring. Winter pruning can make it easier to distinguish between them, particularly in cooler climates. Whichever timing you choose, removing spent floricanes prevents overcrowding, improves airflow, and reduces the risk of disease. At the same time, thin out any weak or damaged stems and retain only 6–8 of the strongest new canes per plant — these will form the following year’s crop.

In the first year, green canes called primocanes will grow. These are soft and flexible and won’t fruit yet. Tie them to one side of your support system — whether that’s a wire, trellis, or fence — leaving space between canes for good airflow and ease of maintenance. While tying is not essential, it’s strongly recommended as it helps keep canes upright, protects them from damage caused by strong winds or heavy fruit loads, and makes pruning and harvesting easier. Grouping them on one side also simplifies future maintenance.

These canes become floricanes in their second year. Once they return in spring and reach a height of 1.2–1.5 m, tip-prune just above a node to encourage lateral branching. Removing 5–10 cm from the tip is usually enough. Alternatively, prune back to the highest horizontal wire or to a height that’s comfortable for tying and harvesting. Lateral branches will form just below the cut point and carry fruit later in the season. If tip-pruning is missed, the canes will still fruit, but often with fewer points of production.

Suckers and runners may also appear throughout the season. These can be removed to keep the planting area tidy and manageable or allowed to establish if you'd like to propagate new plants. Tying fruiting and non-fruiting canes to opposite sides of the support system keeps your plants productive, accessible, and well-structured.
Harvest

Raspberry Golden Yellow is typically ready to harvest in mid to late summer, or even into early autumn, depending on your climate. The berries are ripe when they turn a rich golden-yellow colour and come away easily from the plant with a gentle tug. Ripe fruit is soft, juicy, and full of sweet-tart flavour.

Pick every couple of days during the fruiting period to encourage continuous production and reduce the chance of attracting pests. Because the berries are softer and lighter in colour than red varieties, it’s best to check them in morning or evening light, when ripeness is easier to spot.

Use shallow containers to avoid crushing the fruit, and refrigerate soon after picking if not eaten fresh. Golden Yellow raspberries are ideal for snacking, as well as desserts, sauces, jams, baking, or freezing for later use.
While birds are often less attracted to yellow raspberries than red varieties, it’s still a good idea to use netting or other protection if wildlife becomes a problem, especially as the fruit ripens.
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