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Raspberry Chilcotin

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Raspberry Chilcotin (Rubus idaeus) is a must-have for any productive garden—easy to grow, generous with fruit, and bursting with flavour. This vigorous variety produces plump, glossy red berries with a rich, well-balanced flavour—sweet with a gentle tang—ideal for snacking straight from the cane or turning into homemade jams, desserts, and more. A dual cropper, it rewards you with a bountiful summer harvest, followed by a smaller second flush at the end of the season. The canes have fewer thorns than many other berry varieties, making them easier to handle, harvest, and train. Chilcotin thrives in areas with a cool winter chill, making it perfect for cool, temperate, and arid climates. Grow it along a trellis, fence, or wire—or even in large pots—and enjoy reliable yields with less fuss. With its rich flavour and its lengthy fruiting period, Chilcotin is a standout choice for berry lovers.

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Description

Raspberry Chilcotin
Raspberry ‘Chilcotin’ (Rubus idaeus, family Rosaceae) is a deciduous perennial shrub that produces fruit on second-year canes (floricanes). It grows to around 1.5 m high and 50 cm wide, sometimes taller in ideal conditions. In spring, small white flowers appear on mature canes, followed by firm, glossy red berries of medium size and conical shape. A summer-fruiting dual cropper, it delivers a main harvest from December to January, with the potential for a smaller second crop in March when growing conditions are favourable. With fewer thorns than most raspberries and excellent home-garden performance, Chilcotin is a practical and rewarding variety for all skill levels.

Uses and Nutritional Content
These firm, juicy berries are ideal for fresh eating, desserts, jams, smoothies, and sauces. The fruit ripens for around four weeks, allowing for regular harvesting and easy preserving. Raspberries are rich in vitamin C, vitamin K, manganese, fibre, and antioxidants, which support heart health, immunity, and digestion.

When to Plant
Plant from winter to early spring while dormant, when the soil is workable and not frozen or waterlogged. If you can’t plant immediately, store canes in a cool, dry place and plant as soon as possible.

Where to Plant
Plant in a permanent position with full sun to part shade, either in the ground or in a pot, ensuring good airflow and well-drained soil. In hot regions, afternoon shade is beneficial to protect the leaves and fruit. Choose a site sheltered from strong winds to prevent cane breakage and stress. Avoid low-lying or damp areas where poor drainage may lead to root problems.

Soil Preparation
Raspberries grow best in rich, moist, well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5–6.5 (tolerates up to 6.8). Before planting, mix in well-rotted compost or aged manure to improve fertility and structure. Improve clay or sandy soils with organic matter. In areas with poor drainage, consider planting in raised beds.

Training
Raspberries need support due to their long, flexible canes. Use a trellis, wire, or fence — suitable for both garden beds and large pots. In the first year, primocanes (green canes) grow and establish but do not fruit. These canes will return the following spring as floricanes.

From the second year onward, tie the floricanes to one side of the support and the new season’s primocanes to the other. This keeps fruiting and non-fruiting canes organised, improves airflow, helps prevent damage, and makes harvesting and annual pruning easier.

How to Plant

  • Soak bare-rooted canes in water for up to 1 hour before planting.
  • Dig a hole deep enough to spread roots.
  • Space 40–60 cm apart, with 1.5 m between rows.
  • Spread the roots roughly 10 cm deep and position the crown just a few centimetres below the soil surface.
  • Backfill and firm soil gently.
  • Apply a complete fertiliser at planting.
  • Water in well and mulch around the base (keep mulch clear of the crown).

Growing in Pots
If planting in a pot, choose one that is at least 40 cm deep and wide with good drainage, and fill it with a premium potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter. Follow the same planting and care steps as for growing in the ground. Plant only one cane per pot to reduce overcrowding, allow adequate airflow, and ensure the plant has enough space to develop a strong root system.

Pruning

‘Chilcotin’ is a summer-fruiting dual-cropping raspberry that produces its main crop on second-year canes (floricanes). In late winter, once the plant is dormant, prune all canes that fruited during the previous season down to ground level — these will not fruit again. Be sure to retain the strong, healthy new canes that grew during the last spring and summer, as these will bear fruit in the coming season.

In some regions, Chilcotin may naturally produce a smaller second harvest in autumn on side shoots from the same canes that fruited earlier in summer. This occurs without special pruning and is more likely in longer growing seasons. If you notice developing fruit late in the season, simply delay pruning those canes until after the second harvest has finished. Otherwise, pruning in late winter is the easiest and most reliable method.

Always remove any weak, damaged, or diseased canes during pruning to maintain airflow and encourage healthy growth.

Managing Runners
Remove runners or suckers to prevent overcrowding or allow some to root for propagation.

Watering and Feeding
Keep soil consistently moist in spring and summer, watering at the base. In early spring, feed with a complete fertiliser such as fish emulsion, blood and bone, compost, or well-rotted manure. A light feed in summer with high-potassium fertiliser (e.g. tomato food or sulphate of potash) can support primocane development, especially in pots. No feeding is needed in autumn. In winter, apply compost and mulch to protect roots.

Harvesting
Fruit ripens for about four weeks from mid summer, with a potential second flush at the end of the season. Timing may vary with region and climate. Berries are ready when deep red, plump, and easy to pull from the cane. Harvest in the cool of morning every few days. Use fresh or in desserts, jams, and smoothies.

Pests and Diseases
Watch for aphids, spider mites, fruit flies, and birds. Use insecticidal soap, netting, and regular picking. Prevent grey mould (Botrytis) and rust with good airflow and by removing affected material.

Safety
Raspberry Chilcotin fruit is edible; however, we do not recommend consuming any other part of the plant, including the leaves, roots, or canes. These plants are safe to touch, but take care when handling, as they still develop thorns despite being an almost thornless berry cane. Monitor children and pets around canes to ensure their safety.

Supplied as bare-rooted canes.

Additional information

Price Code

E – Green Pack

Botanical Name

Rubus idaeus

Quantity in Pack

2 Canes

Harvest Time

This dual cropper typically fruits from mid-summer, with a second flush at the end of the season. Timing may vary depending on region and climate.

Planting Time

Plant from winter to early spring. Ensure the soil is workable, not frozen or waterlogged. Protect young plants from frost by covering them with frost cloth or planting them in pots so they can be moved into the ground when conditions are suitable.

Planting Depth

Plant so that the roots sit approximately 10 cm deep, with the crown positioned just below the soil surface — no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deep, as this can cause rot, or too shallow, which may expose the roots. Ensure the hole is wide and deep enough to comfortably spread the roots.

The crown is the point where the roots meet the base of the canes — often slightly swollen and marked with small buds. This should sit just below the soil surface after planting.

Planting Width

Plant 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 metres between each row.

Soil

Raspberries grow best in rich, moist, and well-drained soil with a moderately acidic profile. Aim for a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, though plants can tolerate levels up to 6.8 in fertile, well-prepared conditions. Good drainage is essential to prevent waterlogging and reduce the risk of root rot.

Before planting, prepare the soil to a depth of at least 30 cm and incorporate well-rotted compost or aged manure to improve fertility, structure, and moisture retention. Avoid fresh manure, as it can burn young roots and disrupt soil pH.

In heavy clay soils, add plenty of organic matter to improve drainage and aeration. In sandy soils, mix in compost, aged manure, or coco peat to enhance moisture and nutrient retention. Applying mulch on top can further regulate soil temperature and reduce evaporation.

In areas with poor drainage or compacted ground, consider planting raspberries in raised garden beds to improve airflow and prevent root rot.

Well-prepared soil provides the foundation for productive, long-lived raspberry plants.

For potted raspberries, use a high-quality, free-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter to create a stable and balanced growing environment.

How to Plant

Choose a sunny position with at least 6 hours of direct sun daily, preferably with some afternoon shade to help reduce heat stress. Avoid planting in too much shade, as this can reduce fruiting and lead to weak, leggy growth. Good airflow is important to help prevent disease.

Before planting, it's recommended (though not essential) to soak bare-root canes in water for up to 1 hour. This helps rehydrate the roots after storage and gives the plant a stronger start in the soil. Prepare the site by enriching the soil with well-rotted compost or manure before digging.

Dig a hole wide and deep enough to spread the roots comfortably. Plant so the roots sit about 10 cm deep, with the crown just below the soil surface — no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deeply, as this can cause rot. In poorly drained areas, create a small mound at the base of the planting hole and spread the roots over it, or plant in raised beds to improve drainage.

Space canes 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 m between rows for airflow and maintenance. Backfill with soil or a soil-compost mix, firm gently around the roots to remove air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the soil.

After planting, apply a small amount of complete fertiliser around the base to support early growth. Well-rotted compost or manure can also be used as a top dressing beneath the mulch to enrich the soil further.

Apply mulch around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it a few centimetres clear of the crown. You can use straw, sugarcane mulch, or well-rotted compost or manure as a mulch layer. If using compost or manure alone, apply generously and reapply as needed to maintain coverage.

For pots, use one cane per container at least 40 cm deep and wide, filled with premium potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter. After planting, apply a small amount of complete fertiliser and water well. Ensure good drainage and follow the same planting principles.

Watering

Keep the soil consistently moist, especially during the growing and fruiting season. This ensures the plant has enough water to support healthy growth and fruit production. Water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting the foliage, which can encourage fungal diseases. Use a watering can or hose to apply water slowly and evenly.

To avoid waterlogging, ensure your soil is well-drained. If the soil tends to retain water, consider improving drainage by adding organic matter like compost, or plant on a slight mound to help water flow away from the roots. Raised beds or containers with drainage holes also help keep water from collecting around the roots.

In containers, check the moisture regularly as pots can dry out faster than garden beds. Adjust watering accordingly, especially in warmer weather.

During winter, water only if the soil is dry, particularly in drier climates, as the plant is dormant and requires minimal water. Avoid watering during frost periods, as frozen soil can prevent water absorption and may damage the roots.

Fertilise

In early spring, apply a complete fertiliser to support strong cane growth. Use granular fertiliser, fish emulsion, blood and bone, compost, or well-rotted manure. In summer, you can apply a high-potassium fertiliser, such as sulphate of potash or a tomato-specific blend, to support healthy primocane growth for next year’s crop—this is especially helpful in poor soils or potted plants. No feeding is needed after fruiting finishes. In winter, avoid fertilising—apply compost and mulch instead to protect the roots and improve the soil.
In subsequent years, continue to apply fertiliser in spring to support healthy growth and fruit production. Even if you enrich the soil with compost or well-rotted manure in winter, a balanced fertiliser in spring will maintain plant vitality and ensure good yields.

Pruning

No pruning is required in the first year after planting. Allow all canes to grow undisturbed to help establish a strong root system and framework for future cropping.

'Chilcotin’ fruits on first-year canes (primocanes) that grow and fruit in the same season. As the plant becomes dormant over winter, all fruiting canes are typically cut back to ground level. In most regions, pruning is best done in mid to late winter, once leaves have fallen and the plant is fully dormant. This encourages strong new growth in spring and supports a generous crop.

‘Chilcotin’ is also a dual-cropping variety. With selective pruning, it can produce two smaller harvests — one in summer and another in autumn. To achieve this, prune only the fruited tops of the strongest canes in winter and leave the lower sections intact. These may fruit again the following summer before being removed completely. While this method offers two yields, it can slightly reduce the size of both crops. Tip-pruning the green primocanes during the growing season is not needed to produce two crops, as dual harvests develop naturally on second-year canes with the right winter pruning. However, some gardeners may still choose to tip-prune during the season to manage cane height or promote bushier growth.

For those managing the plant as a single autumn crop, tip-pruning can be used to adjust fruiting time and structure. In warmer climates, gardeners may choose to tip-prune the new primocanes in spring when they reach around 60 cm. This delays fruiting slightly, helping avoid the hottest part of late summer, and encourages lateral shoots lower on the cane where fruit may be better protected from heat.

In cooler climates, it’s best to leave cane tips intact to allow fruiting to begin earlier near the top, where fruit benefits from full sunlight and has a better chance to ripen before temperatures drop.

Tip-pruning remains optional — it doesn’t reduce the overall crop but shifts fruiting lower on the cane, which can make harvesting easier and protect fruit from heat or wind exposure. It’s especially useful for gardeners looking to manage cane height or encourage bushier growth.

Always remove weak, damaged, or diseased canes during pruning to maintain airflow and promote healthy growth.

Harvest

Chilcotin is a mid-season variety that fruits during the summer months, typically beginning in December and continuing for around four weeks. If conditions are ideal, a smaller second harvest may occur in autumn, usually around March. As climate and growing conditions vary across regions and from year to year, harvesting times may shift. Use this as a general guide: expect fruit mid-season in summer, with a possible second flush in autumn.

Fruit ripens gradually, so check your plants every few days. Berries start out green and firm, then turn glossy red as they ripen. When ready, they will be medium-sized, slightly soft, and will detach easily when gently pulled. For best results, harvest in the morning when berries are cool and firm. This helps preserve their quality and reduces the risk of damage. Pick promptly once ripe, as fruit left too long on the cane can soften or spoil quickly in warm conditions.

These sweet, juicy berries are perfect for fresh eating, desserts, jams, sauces, drinks, and freezing for later use in smoothies or baking.

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