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Raspberry Autumn Bliss

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Extend your raspberry harvest with the versatile Raspberry ‘Autumn Bliss’ (Rubus idaeus), a highly sought-after dual-cropping variety that can produce fruit in both summer and autumn with the right pruning. Alternatively, it can be grown for one abundant crop from late summer through autumn, offering a simpler approach with impressive results. This flexibility makes ‘Autumn Bliss’ perfect for all types of gardeners — whether you’re after an extended picking season or prefer an easy, once-a-year harvest. With a primocane habit that fruits on first-year canes, it’s reliable, beginner-friendly, and rewarding to grow. Compact, disease-resistant, and low-maintenance, it performs beautifully in garden beds or large pots, and its low-chill requirement makes it especially well-suited to both cool and warmer climates. A standout choice for flavour, ease, and versatility.

Description

Raspberry ‘Autumn Bliss’ (Rubus idaeus
Raspberry ‘Autumn Bliss’ is an autumn-bearing perennial from the Rosaceae family that fruits on first-year canes (primocanes). New canes emerge in spring, fruit from late summer through autumn, and are pruned after harvest. This variety is also capable of dual cropping when managed with selective pruning, offering both an early summer and a late-season harvest. Plants then go dormant for winter. ‘Autumn Bliss’ is prized for its long cropping window, compact growth, and excellent disease resistance. It produces mid to dark red, sweet fruit on upright, easy-to-manage canes — perfect for home gardens.

Growth Habit
Raspberry ‘Autumn Bliss’ forms clumps of upright canes, reaching 1–1.5 m tall and 50 cm wide. Fruit grows on first-year canes, which are cut back in winter. While largely self-supporting, light staking can help in windy spots or when heavily laden with fruit.

Climate Suitability
Adaptable to many climates, it excels in areas with warm summers and mild autumns. As a low-chill variety, it’s a strong performer in warmer regions where traditional raspberries may struggle. Frost-hardy and benefits from afternoon shade in hot climates.

Where to Plant
Choose a sunny to part-shaded position with good airflow. Avoid low, damp areas with poor drainage. In hot regions, some afternoon shade can reduce stress and protect fruit.

Soil
Prefers rich, moist, well-drained soil with a pH of 5.5–6.5. Improve soil by adding compost or aged manure before planting. In clay or sandy soils, increase organic matter or use raised beds.

Planting
• Soak bare-rooted canes in water for up to 1 hour before planting.
• Dig a hole deep enough to spread roots.
• Space 40–60 cm apart, with 1.5 m between rows.
• Spread the roots roughly 10 cm deep and position the crown just a few centimetres below the soil surface.
• Backfill and firm soil gently.
• Apply a complete fertiliser at planting.
• Water in well and mulch around the base (keep mulch clear of the crown).

Growing in Pots
Ideal for large containers (min. 40 cm deep and wide). Use premium potting mix with compost. Plant one cane per pot. Position in sun to part shade and protect from hot afternoon sun. Its compact size makes it well-suited for pots.

Fertilising
Feed in late winter or early spring using complete fertiliser or compost. Lightly work into the soil before mulching. In poor soils, a second light feed in early summer may boost growth. Avoid overfeeding, which may cause excessive foliage at the expense of fruit.

Mulching
Apply mulch after fertilising in late winter to early spring. Mulch helps retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Keep mulch away from cane bases to prevent rot. Top up as needed.

Watering
Water regularly during the growing season, particularly in dry or windy weather. Maintain consistent soil moisture, especially during fruiting. Potted plants may need more frequent watering. Reduce watering in winter when dormant.

Pruning
‘Autumn Bliss’ is a dual-cropping variety that fruits on primocanes — canes that grow and fruit within the same year. Because it’s a dual cropper, you can choose between one larger harvest or two smaller ones, depending on your preferred pruning method.

For a single, generous autumn crop, prune all canes to ground level in mid to late winter. This encourages strong new growth in spring, which fruits on the upper cane sections from late summer into autumn.

To produce two crops, prune only the fruited tops in winter and leave the lower parts of strong canes intact. These become floricanes and can fruit again the following spring to early summer on short side shoots, before being removed entirely. Be aware that pruning for two crops may slightly reduce yields in both seasons.

In warmer climates, gardeners managing plants for a single autumn crop may choose to tip-prune the new primocanes in spring (at around 60 cm) to delay fruiting slightly and encourage lateral branching, helping fruit avoid the hottest part of summer. In cooler climates, it’s best to leave cane tips intact to allow earlier fruiting near the top. Tip-pruning is optional — plants will still fruit well without it.

Always remove weak, damaged, or diseased canes during winter pruning to support healthy growth and good airflow.

Suckers & Runners
Raspberries spread by suckers. Remove unwanted shoots to prevent overcrowding. Strong suckers can be left in place or transplanted to expand your patch. Maintain a 40–50 cm wide strip for airflow and access.

Harvest
Fruit is ready when fully coloured, plump, and easily removed. ‘Autumn Bliss’ typically crops from December to April. Pick every few days to avoid spoilage. Handle gently, as berries bruise easily. Store in shallow containers and refrigerate soon after harvest.

Pests & Diseases
‘Autumn Bliss’ is resistant to many common diseases, including root rot. It’s less prone to grey mould, rust, and cane blight, but still benefits from good airflow and removing damaged growth. Aphids and scale can be treated with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. In some areas, fruit fly and birds may be an issue — netting helps protect the crop. Monitor regularly for best results.

Safety
The fruit is edible, but other plant parts should not be eaten. Wear gloves when pruning to avoid scratches from thorny stems. Supervise children and pets during fruiting.

Supplied as a bare-rooted cane.

Additional information

Price Code

E – Green Pack

Botanical Name

Rubus idaeus x Rubus hybrids

Quantity in Pack

2 Canes

Harvest Time

December to April

Planting Time

Plant from winter to early spring. Ensure the soil is workable, not frozen or waterlogged. Protect young plants from frost by covering them with frost cloth or planting them in pots so they can be moved into the ground when conditions are suitable.

Planting Depth

Plant so that the roots sit approximately 10 cm deep, with the crown positioned just below the soil surface — no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deep, as this can cause rot, or too shallow, which may expose the roots. Ensure the hole is wide and deep enough to comfortably spread the roots.

The crown is the point where the roots meet the base of the canes — often slightly swollen and marked with small buds. This should sit just below the soil surface after planting.

Planting Width

Plant 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 metres between each row.

Soil

Raspberries grow best in rich, moist, and well-drained soil with a moderately acidic profile. Aim for a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, though plants can tolerate levels up to 6.8 in fertile, well-prepared conditions. Good drainage is essential to prevent waterlogging and reduce the risk of root rot.

Before planting, prepare the soil to a depth of at least 30 cm and incorporate well-rotted compost or aged manure to improve fertility, structure, and moisture retention. Avoid fresh manure, as it can burn young roots and disrupt soil pH.

In heavy clay soils, add plenty of organic matter to improve drainage and aeration. In sandy soils, mix in compost, aged manure, or coco peat to enhance moisture and nutrient retention. Applying mulch on top can further regulate soil temperature and reduce evaporation.

In areas with poor drainage or compacted ground, consider planting raspberries in raised garden beds to improve airflow and prevent root rot.

Well-prepared soil provides the foundation for productive, long-lived raspberry plants.

For potted raspberries, use a high-quality, free-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter to create a stable and balanced growing environment.

How to Plant

Choose a sunny position with at least 6 hours of direct sun daily, preferably with some afternoon shade to help reduce heat stress. Avoid planting in too much shade, as this can reduce fruiting and lead to weak, leggy growth. Good airflow is important to help prevent disease.

Before planting, it's recommended (though not essential) to soak bare-root canes in water for up to 1 hour. This helps rehydrate the roots after storage and gives the plant a stronger start in the soil. Prepare the site by enriching the soil with well-rotted compost or manure before digging.

Dig a hole wide and deep enough to spread the roots comfortably. Plant so the roots sit about 10 cm deep, with the crown just below the soil surface — no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deeply, as this can cause rot. In poorly drained areas, create a small mound at the base of the planting hole and spread the roots over it, or plant in raised beds to improve drainage.

Space canes 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 m between rows for airflow and maintenance. Backfill with soil or a soil-compost mix, firm gently around the roots to remove air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the soil.

After planting, apply a small amount of complete fertiliser around the base to support early growth. Well-rotted compost or manure can also be used as a top dressing beneath the mulch to enrich the soil further.

Apply mulch around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it a few centimetres clear of the crown. You can use straw, sugarcane mulch, or well-rotted compost or manure as a mulch layer. If using compost or manure alone, apply generously and reapply as needed to maintain coverage.

For pots, use one cane per container at least 40 cm deep and wide, filled with premium potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter. After planting, apply a small amount of complete fertiliser and water well. Ensure good drainage and follow the same planting principles.

Watering

Raspberries require consistent moisture throughout the growing season to support healthy cane growth, flowering, and fruiting. Water deeply and regularly, especially during dry, windy, or hot weather. Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged — overly wet soil can lead to root rot, particularly in heavy or poorly drained areas. If drainage is an issue, improve the soil with compost or organic matter, or consider planting on a slight mound to help water drain away from the roots. Raised beds or containers with drainage holes are also ideal for preventing water from collecting around the crown.

During flowering and fruit development, avoid allowing the soil to dry out, as irregular watering can cause poor fruit set, small berries, or fruit drop. In sandy soils or warmer climates, more frequent watering may be necessary. Early morning is the best time to water, as it allows moisture to reach the roots before the heat of the day and reduces the risk of fungal disease.

Potted raspberries require closer attention, as containers dry out much faster than garden beds. Check regularly, especially in hot weather, and water when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry. Always ensure pots have good drainage.

Mulching is an excellent companion to watering. A generous layer of mulch helps retain soil moisture, reduce evaporation, and protect roots from heat stress. It also lowers the frequency of watering, particularly in warm or exposed locations. Apply mulch in late winter to early spring after pruning and fertilising, and top up as needed throughout the growing season. Keep mulch a few centimetres away from cane bases to prevent stem rot.

As the plant enters dormancy in winter, watering should be reduced or stopped entirely. In areas with natural winter rainfall or where temperatures drop and frost is common, additional watering is not needed. In warmer or drier climates — particularly arid regions — occasional deep watering may be beneficial during extended dry spells, but only when the soil is dry several centimetres down and conditions are mild. Avoid watering during freezing conditions or periods of heavy rain, and ensure good drainage throughout the cooler months.

Fertilise

Raspberries benefit from a balanced feeding program to support strong cane growth, healthy foliage, and productive harvests.

Apply a complete fertiliser in late winter to early spring, just as new growth begins. This supplies essential nutrients — including nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium — to promote vigorous shoot development and prepare the plant for the season ahead. Even if compost or manure has been added, a complete fertiliser is often recommended to ensure plants receive an immediate and balanced supply of nutrients.

From the first year onward, you can use a slow-release fertiliser labelled as “fruit and citrus” or “berries and vines” to provide long-lasting nutrition throughout the growing season. For a quick boost, apply a liquid fertiliser such as one labelled “all-purpose” or “vegetable and herb” every 4–6 weeks during spring and early summer. Organic fertilisers like aged manure, blood and bone, or pelletised chicken manure (labelled “certified organic” or “suitable for fruiting plants”) can be added before planting, in spring, or after fruiting to improve soil health and support long-term fertility.

If growth appears weak, leaves look pale or yellow, or fruiting is poor, a second light feed in early summer can help restore vigour. Avoid over-fertilising, particularly with high-nitrogen products, as this can lead to lush, leafy growth at the expense of fruit and may increase susceptibility to disease. Signs of over-fertilising include excessive soft foliage, poor fruit set, dark green leaves with scorched tips, or floppy canes that are more prone to pests and weather damage.

Stop fertilising once the fruiting season ends, as the plant prepares for dormancy and no longer requires additional nutrients. In most climates, wait until late winter to early spring to apply mulch — after pruning and fertilising — to help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and protect the root zone as new growth begins. In arid climates, mulch may be maintained year-round and topped up as needed to reduce water loss and insulate the soil.

For potted raspberries, mix a slow-release fertiliser into the potting mix at planting. Then, apply a diluted liquid feed every 4–6 weeks during the growing season. Stop feeding in late summer to allow the plant to slow down naturally before dormancy. Potted plants often need more frequent feeding due to limited soil volume and faster nutrient depletion.

Pruning

‘Autumn Bliss’ fruits on first-year canes (primocanes) that grow and fruit in the same year. These raspberries can be grown and pruned in two ways, depending on whether you’d like one large harvest or two smaller harvests. In most regions, pruning is best done in mid to late winter, once the leaves have fallen and the plant is fully dormant. Pruning at this time encourages strong new growth in spring and supports a generous crop from late summer through to autumn.

‘Autumn Bliss’ is also a dual-cropping variety. With selective pruning, it can produce two smaller harvests — one in summer and another in autumn. To achieve this, allow the plant to develop its canes (primocanes) after planting and let them grow undisturbed during their first year. Do not prune in the first winter.

In the second year, the tops of these canes will produce fruit. After harvesting, prune back the fruited tips in winter — just below where the berries formed. Look for dry, brittle ends and shrivelled side shoots as your guide. This will leave a shortened cane that will produce a summer crop in the upcoming fruiting season.

After the second harvest, these canes should then be removed completely — cut to ground level in winter. Each year, new primocanes will emerge to continue the cycle. Be sure to retain any strong, unfruited canes so they can mature and fruit in the seasons ahead. Repeat this pruning and harvesting cycle annually to maintain dual cropping.

While this method offers two yields, it can slightly reduce the size of both crops. Tip-pruning is not required when managing for two crops, as both flushes of fruit develop naturally — though some gardeners may still choose to tip-prune for height control or to encourage bushier growth.

For those managing the plant as a single autumn crop, tip-pruning can be used to adjust fruiting time and structure. In warmer climates, gardeners may choose to tip-prune the new primocanes in spring when they reach around 60 cm. This delays fruiting slightly, helping avoid the hottest part of late summer, and encourages lateral shoots lower on the cane where fruit may be better protected from heat.

In cooler climates, it’s best to leave cane tips intact to allow fruiting to begin earlier near the top, where fruit benefits from full sunlight and has a better chance to ripen before temperatures drop.

Tip-pruning remains optional — it doesn’t reduce the overall crop but shifts fruiting lower on the cane, which can make harvesting easier and protect fruit from heat or wind exposure. It’s especially useful for gardeners looking to manage cane height or encourage bushier growth.

Always remove weak, damaged, or diseased canes during pruning to maintain airflow and promote healthy growth.

Harvest

Raspberries are best harvested when they are fully ripe — the fruit should be evenly coloured, plump, and come away easily from the plant without resistance. If a berry doesn’t detach with a gentle pull, it likely needs more time to ripen.

Check plants every two to three days during the harvest period, as ripe fruit can spoil quickly if left too long on the cane. Harvest during the cooler part of the day, preferably in the morning, and avoid picking in wet conditions to reduce the risk of fungal issues such as grey mould.

Raspberries are soft and highly perishable, so handle them gently and use shallow containers to avoid bruising. Store fruit in the fridge as soon as possible, and consume within a few days for best quality. For longer storage, raspberries freeze well — place them in a single layer on a tray until firm, then transfer to sealed containers or bags.

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