Potato Pink Fir Apple - Trenton Cottage
Potato Pink Fir Apple - Trenton Cottage
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Potato Pink Fir Apple

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Loved for its firm, waxy texture and rich, nutty flavour, Certified Seed Potato ‘Pink Fir Apple’ (Solanum tuberosum) is a heritage variety that brings something special to the table. Its long, knobbly tubers with pink skin hold their shape beautifully, making it perfect for roasting, boiling, and classic potato salads. Easy to grow and rewarding for gardeners of all levels, this late-maturing variety thrives in vegetable beds, raised beds, and containers, taking 90–140 days to reach harvest. It stores well, ensuring you can enjoy its unique flavour for months after lifting. If you’re after a flavour-packed, waxy potato that shines in crisp roasts and hearty salads, ‘Pink Fir Apple’ is a must-grow!

SKU: TCSPOPFA500 Category: Tags: ,

Description

Important Shipping Information
We do not send seed potatoes to WA, TAS, or NT due to quarantine restrictions.

Potato ‘Pink Fir Apple’
Potato ‘Pink Fir Apple’ is an indeterminate maincrop variety, meaning it continues producing tubers along the stem as it grows and is harvested later in the season for a larger yield. Dating back to the 19th century, this heritage favourite is prized for its long, knobbly tubers with pink skin and firm, waxy flesh. Its dense texture holds its shape beautifully, making it ideal for boiling, roasting, and salads, whether freshly cooked or chilled. While it can be mashed, it truly shines in dishes that highlight its firm texture, holding together rather than becoming fluffy, perfect for those who prefer a denser mash. Thriving in vegetable beds, raised beds, and containers, this late-maturing variety takes 90–140 days to reach harvest and stores well, ensuring a steady supply of delicious, homegrown potatoes for months.

Best Planting Times by Climate
Potatoes are usually planted from winter through to spring, allowing them to grow during the cooler months and develop properly before the summer heat. They are best planted at specific times for optimal growth, but alternative windows are possible with smaller yields.
• Cool Climates – August to February. Alternative: July, March-May.
• Temperate Climates – August to October. Alternative: April-July and January.
• Arid Climates – August to December. Alternative: May-July.
• Subtropical Climates – August to October. Alternative: March-May.
• Tropical Climates – March-May. Alternative: August-October.

Frost Considerations
Potatoes prefer cool to warm conditions but need protection from frosts. It’s best to plant after the last frost, but you can plant 2-3 weeks earlier in cold climates if frost protection is provided. Grow in pots or grow bags stored in sheltered areas or protected with frost cloths or mulch. Chitting speeds up growth, helping potatoes mature earlier and protecting them from harsh frosts, useful if you need to harvest sooner. Ground planting should wait until after the last frost for the best results.

Chitting (Pre-Sprouting) and Cutting
Chitting helps potatoes establish faster by encouraging early sprouting. While not essential, it can still be beneficial, especially in frost-prone areas. Large seed potatoes may be cut to increase the number of plants, but small ones should be left whole to avoid reducing yield. Each cut piece should be at least 4–6 cm with one to two eyes.

How to Chit and Cut:
• Sprout seed potatoes in a cool, bright, dry spot. This may take 4-6 weeks.
• If cutting, do so after chitting. Cut large potatoes into halves with two eyes.
• Allow cut pieces to dry for 24-48 hours before planting.

Soil Requirements
Plant in loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. Add compost or organic matter to improve fertility and moisture retention. For containers, use a high-quality potting mix with good drainage and incorporate compost in a 1:1 ratio. Ensure containers are at least 40 cm deep.

Location: Plant in full sun, ensuring they receive 6–8 hours of sunlight daily.

How to Plant Potatoes
• Trenches: Dig a trench 25–30 cm deep and 20 cm wide. Add 10 cm of compost and scatter a complete fertiliser along the trench. Space trenches at least 50 cm apart.
• Raised Beds: Dig holes 15–20 cm deep. Add a small handful of complete fertiliser at the base.
• Containers/Grow Bags: Add 10 cm of the potting mix/compost blend with fertiliser. Sprinkle more fertiliser between layers as plants grow.

Plant Seed Potatoes – Place potatoes 15-20 cm deep with the eyes up. Space them 45 cm apart and cover them with soil.

Mounding & Mulching – As shoots reach 10–15 cm high, gradually mound up with the surrounding soil or mulch, exposing only the top leaves. Repeat this process for as long as they continue to grow, aiming to cover them with 25–30 cm. This helps protect developing tubers, retain moisture, and prevent greening. In containers and grow bags, continue adding soil or mulch until they are full.

Water Consistently – Keep soil moist but not waterlogged.

Mulch – Apply straw or hay in layers as plants grow to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and prevent greening.

Harvesting
• Takes 90–140 days to mature.
• Signs of maturity: Yellowing and dying foliage.
• Stop watering two weeks before harvest to toughen the skin for storage.
• After lifting, dry for a few hours, then store in a cool, dark, well-ventilated area, preferably in mesh bags.

Pests & Diseases
• Common pests: Aphids, slugs, and wireworms.
• Diseases: Susceptible to blight and rot from poor drainage.
• Prevention: Rotate crops, ensure good drainage, and remove infected plants.

Green Potatoes
Exposed tubers turn green and produce solanine, which is toxic in large amounts. To avoid greening, ensure tubers are properly covered and protected.

Caution: Do not eat green potatoes – they are toxic.

Supplied as dormant tubers.

Additional information

Price Code

C – Orange Pack
Botanical Name

Solanum tuberosum
Net Weight

500g
Harvesting Time

Harvest 90-140 days after the last frost
Planting Time

Cool Climates – Best planted: August to February. Alternative planting: July, March to May.
Temperate Climates – Best planted: August to October. Alternative planting: April to July and January.
Arid Climates – Best planted: August to December. Alternative planting: May to July.
Subtropical Climates – Best planted: August to October. Alternative planting: March to May.
Tropical Climates – Best planted: March to May. Alternative planting: August to October.

Note: Potatoes can still be planted during alternative months, but growth and yields will be smaller, often producing fewer large tubers.
Planting Depth

Plant 15-20 cm deep in trenches, vegetable beds, and raised beds.
For pots and grow bags, plant into one-third of a combination of potting mix and compost, which is roughly 10 cm deep from the bottom of the pot.
Planting Width

For trenches, vegetable beds, or raised beds: Plant tubers 45 cm apart, with at least 50 cm between rows.
In pots or grow bags, plant 15 cm apart, ensuring space between them. Usually two to three potatoes per pot or grow bag.
Chitting (Pre-Sprouting)

Chitting encourages seed potatoes to sprout before planting, promoting stronger shoots, faster growth, and potentially higher yields. While not essential, it benefits gardeners in frost-prone areas by giving potatoes a head start before planting. This is especially useful for maincrop varieties, which take longer to mature.

Potatoes will sprout naturally in cool to warm soil, but chitting speeds up the process, making it ideal for early harvests or cooler climates. Many gardeners skip chitting in warmer climates or when planting later in the season since the warm soil encourages quick sprouting. However, planting in very warm conditions can result in smaller yields and faster but weaker growth. For the best results, plant when the soil is cool but beginning to warm to give potatoes the best start.
How to Chit Seed Potatoes – Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the "eyes" facing up in a cool, bright, frost-free spot—like a windowsill or greenhouse. Avoid direct sunlight or darkness, as weak, leggy shoots can break easily. In a few weeks, short, sturdy green or purple shoots will form.
Preparing Chitted Potatoes for Planting – Decide how many sprouts to keep—fewer sprouts result in larger potatoes, while more sprouts produce smaller ones. Rub off excess sprouts if needed. Once shoots reach about 2 cm long and the soil is cool to warm with no frost risk, plant as usual, handling carefully to avoid breakage.
Soil

Plant in loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with a pH range of 5.0 to 6.5. Add compost or organic matter to improve fertility and moisture retention. Potatoes thrive in slightly acidic soil, so ensure the soil is loose and rich in organic material for optimal growth. Avoid heavy clay soils that retain too much water and cause rot. Depending on your soil type and climate, you may need to adjust the mix further—adding sand for heavy clay soils, extra organic matter for sandy soils, or mulch to help retain moisture in dry regions. In scab-prone areas, maintaining a soil pH of 5.0–5.2 helps reduce infection risk but may result in smaller yields.

For containers, use a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost, ensuring good drainage to prevent waterlogging. Choose a deep container (at least 40 cm deep) to allow proper root and tuber development.
How to Plant

Pots and Grow Bags
Fill one-third of the pot or grow bag with a good-quality potting mix and compost. Place seed potatoes on the mix, eyes up, 15 cm apart. Cover with 5–10 cm of compost. When plants reach 10 cm, add another 5–10 cm of compost, leaving half the leaves exposed. Repeat until the container is full, then add mulch. Place the pot or grow bag in a sunny position and water regularly.

Trenches: For trenches, dig to a depth of 25–30 cm, placing the removed soil to the sides of the trench—this will make hilling up easier as the plants grow. Add 10 cm of compost, mixing the fertiliser into the compost before placing it in the trench, or sprinkle the fertiliser over the compost once it's in place. Space the potatoes 45 cm apart, and for multiple rows, leave at least 50 cm between each row. Backfill the trench with some of the removed soil and compost mixture, then water well. As the plants grow, gradually pull in the soil from the sides to hill them up, aiming to eventually build up to 25–30 cm for protection and moisture retention. Add mulch if needed.

Vegetable beds and raised beds: You can use either the trench method or dig individual holes. Prepare your beds with well-draining soil and compost before planting.

For the trench method, dig a trench 25–30 cm deep, sprinkle a complete fertiliser, and place the tubers 45 cm apart. Cover them lightly with soil, gradually filling in the trench as the plants grow.

Alternatively, dig holes 15–20 cm deep and 45 cm apart. Sprinkle a complete fertiliser into each hole before placing the tubers inside. Backfill with the remaining soil mixture and water thoroughly.

As the plants grow, use a hoe to gently draw up the surrounding soil and compost around the stems, creating a deeper column for tuber development. Continue hilling up gradually, aiming to build up 25–30 cm or until further hilling is no longer possible, or the plants provide themselves with shade. This helps protect developing tubers, retain moisture, and encourage higher yields.

In subtropical and tropical climates, planting in raised beds or mounded rows can help improve drainage and prevent waterlogging during the wet season.

Please note: Maincrop potatoes grow best in raised beds and vegetable beds, where they have space to develop larger tubers and higher yields. If grown in grow bags or small containers, the harvested potatoes may be smaller than expected. For indeterminate potatoes, we recommend planting only two seed potatoes per grow bag to allow sufficient room for growth.
Watering

Keep moist without overwatering, especially in hot, dry climates or when planted in pots, as they dry out quicker. Moving black pots to areas with dappled shade is fine, but ensure they receive 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Stop watering two weeks before harvesting to allow skins to thicken and toughen, helping them store longer.
Fertilise

Use a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone, or a fertiliser specialised for vegetables. Mixing fertiliser into the compost at planting helps improve yields. In containers or grow bags, additional fertiliser can be sprinkled between layers as plants grow to support tuber development. For potatoes grown in the ground or raised beds, layering fertiliser isn’t necessary, but side dressing later in the season can help maintain healthy growth if needed.
Harvest

When to Harvest: Maincrop potatoes typically mature in 90-140 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. In warmer climates, they often reach maturity sooner than in cooler regions. The best indicator that your potatoes are ready for harvest is when the foliage turns yellow and dies back. Once this happens, stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvesting to help toughen the skin for better storage.
For full harvesting: In garden beds, trenches, and raised beds, carefully dig around the plant to lift the tubers without damage.
In pots and grow bags, tip the container or open the side panel for easy access.

Drying & Storage: After harvesting, potatoes need time to dry before storage to allow excess moisture on the skin to evaporate, reducing the risk of rot. This step also helps toughen the skin for better long-term storage.

In mild climates, lay potatoes on top of the soil for a couple of hours to dry, keeping them loosely spread out, but out of direct sunlight to avoid greening. Gently brush off any remaining soil, but avoid washing them, as this shortens their storage life.

In hot climates, move them to a shaded, well-ventilated area and spread them in a single layer to prevent sweating and greening.

Store only mature potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space, such as: A pantry or cupboard (away from direct light), a garage or shed (if temperatures remain stable), an underground cellar or storage bin. Use mesh bags or breathable crates to allow air circulation and prevent moisture buildup.

Mature potatoes store best once the plant has naturally died back.

Bandicooting for Early Potatoes: If you need potatoes sooner, you can use the bandicooting method. This involves gently digging around the base of the plant with a small tool or with your hands to feel for tubers. You can carefully remove a few without disturbing the plant. These are considered new (chat) potatoes and should be used quickly, as they do not store well. Harvesting some potatoes early, before full maturity, will reduce the overall yield of the remaining crop.

Potatoes are prone to pests and diseases, including aphids, slugs, wireworms, blight, rot, and scab. To minimise issues, rotate crops every 3–4 years and plant only Certified Seed Potatoes. Maintaining good watering practices—watering below the leaves and providing the right amount to prevent over- or underwatering—along with crop rotation, soil cultivation, and ensuring the soil is well-suited to their growing conditions, whether in the ground or containers, will help reduce these risks and promote healthy, productive tubers.
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