Potato Russet Burbank - Trenton Cottage
Potato Russet Burbank - Trenton Cottage
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Certified Seed Potato Russet Burbank 2 KG Pack

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Certified Seed Potato ‘Russet Burbank’ (Solanum tuberosum) is the undisputed king of crispy potatoes, prized for its high starch content, crisping ability, and light, fluffy interior. Its large, elongated tubers with thick, rough brown skin and white flesh make it exceptional for hot chips, wedges, and jacket potatoes, delivering the perfect balance of golden crunch on the outside and soft fluffiness inside. Renowned for its frying performance, it consistently produces evenly cooked, golden-crisp chips with every batch. Thriving across a wide range of climates in vegetable beds, raised beds, and containers, this variety is ideal for growers of all levels. A late-maturing potato, it takes 90–140 days to reach harvest and stores exceptionally well, so you can enjoy its superior frying quality long after lifting. If you’re after the perfect homegrown potato for crispy, golden chips and wedges, ‘Russet Burbank’ rises to the occasion every time.

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Description

Important Shipping Information
Seed potatoes cannot be sent to WA, TAS, or NT due to quarantine restrictions.

Potato ‘Russet Burbank’ (Solanum tuberosum)
Potato ‘Russet Burbank’ is an indeterminate maincrop variety, introduced in 1908 and named after Luther Burbank. This heritage favourite produces large, elongated tubers with thick, rough brown skin and white flesh. High in starch and rich in antioxidants, it’s perfect for French fries, jacket potatoes, wedges, and mashing, delivering a crispy exterior and fluffy interior. Its shape is ideal for cutting chips, and it grows successfully in a wide range of climates, thriving in vegetable beds, raised beds, and containers. A late-maturing variety, it takes 90–140 days to harvest and stores well when properly cured, offering lasting enjoyment of its rich flavour.

Best Planting Times by Climate
Potatoes are suitable for a wide range of climates and perform reliably when planted during the cooler months. Typically planted from autumn through to spring, they benefit from growing in cooler soil before summer heat arrives. For optimal growth, plant within the recommended windows below. Alternative planting times are possible but may result in smaller yields.
• Cool Climates – August to February | Alternative: July, March–May
• Temperate Climates – August to October | Alternative: April–July, January
• Arid Climates – August to December | Alternative: May–July
• Subtropical Climates – August to October | Alternative: March–May
• Tropical Climates – March-May | Alternative: August–October

Frost Considerations
Potatoes prefer cool to warm conditions but are sensitive to frost. In areas with light frost, you can plant 2–3 weeks before the last expected frost, as sprouting takes time. In heavy frost zones, wait until conditions warm or pre-sprout seed potatoes indoors to get a head start. For early crops, use frost cloths, mulch, or grow bags in sheltered areas.

Chitting and Cutting Seed Potatoes
Chitting is the process of encouraging seed potatoes to sprout before planting. This helps them develop stronger shoots and begin growing faster once they are in the soil. While not essential, chitting is especially helpful for gardeners in frost-prone areas, as it gives the potatoes a head start.

Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces to increase the number of plants, but smaller potatoes should be planted whole to maintain strong yields. Always let cut pieces dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to form a protective layer that lowers the risk of rot and disease. After chitting, some sprouts can be removed to focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger potatoes, or left intact for a higher yield of smaller tubers. If cutting out sprouts, let the cut surface dry for 24 hours before planting to prevent rot.

How to Chit and Prepare:
• Place seed potatoes with the eyes facing up in a cool, dry, bright spot for 4–6 weeks until short, sturdy sprouts develop.
• Cut tubers after chitting, ensuring each piece has 1–2 eyes. Leave small potatoes whole.
• Once sprouts are about 1–2 cm long, either leave them intact or remove a few.
• Plant the seed potatoes once soil conditions are suitable.

Soil Requirements
Use loose, well-draining soil enriched with compost or organic matter. For containers, choose a high-quality potting mix blended 1:1 with compost. Ensure containers are at least 40 cm deep.

Location: Plant in full sun, ensuring they receive 6–8 hours of sunlight daily. In very hot climates or during periods of extreme heat, provide the plant with some afternoon shade to protect it from heat stress and sunburn.

How to Plant Potatoes
• Trenches: Dig trenches 25–30 cm deep and 20 cm wide, spaced at least 50 cm apart. Add 10 cm of compost and scatter a complete fertiliser along the trench. Plant seed potatoes 15–20 cm deep and 45 cm apart with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil and water well. Gradually mound soil around the stems as plants grow, ensuring tubers stay well covered to protect them from direct sunlight and prevent greening.

• Raised Beds: Prepare beds with well-mixed soil and compost. Dig holes or shallow trenches 15–20 cm deep, spaced 45 cm apart. Add a small handful of a complete fertiliser at the base of each hole. Plant seed potatoes 15–20 cm deep with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil and water thoroughly.

• Containers/Grow Bags: Use containers at least 40 cm deep. Add 10 cm of potting mix blended with compost. Plant 2–3 seed potatoes per container, spaced about 15 cm apart, with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil. As plants grow, continue topping up with 5–10 cm of soil or compost mix until the container or grow bag is full. Water well and fertilise between layers as plants grow.

Fertilising 
Use a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone or a vegetable-specific blend. In containers and grow bags, sprinkle fertiliser between layers as plants grow to support tuber development. In garden beds and trenches, a single application at planting is usually sufficient, though side dressing later in the season can support continued growth if needed.

Mounding & Mulching
When shoots reach 10–15 cm high, begin gradually mounding soil or mulch around the stems, exposing only the top leaves. Repeat as growth continues until 25–30 cm of coverage is achieved. In containers and grow bags, continue topping up with mix as plants grow, finishing with mulch once filled. This protects developing tubers, retains moisture, and prevents greening.

Watering
Keep soil consistently moist, especially in hot, dry climates or when using pots, which dry out faster. Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest to allow skins to toughen for storage.

Harvesting
‘Russet Burbank’ matures in 90–140 days. For the main crop, stop watering when the foliage begins to yellow and die back. Leave the tubers in the soil for a further 2–3 weeks to allow the skins to firm. By this time, the foliage should have completely died back, and the crop will be ready to harvest. Lift carefully and dry in a cool, shaded, well-ventilated spot for a couple of hours, then store in mesh bags or breathable containers in a dark, ventilated area. With proper maturation, curing and storage, they can last for several months.

Bandicooting for Early Potatoes
Potatoes can be harvested as fresh new potatoes with thin skins and tender flesh before they reach full maturity. This process is called bandicooting. To harvest, gently dig around the base of the plant and remove a few young tubers. This can be done about two to three weeks after flowering, or from eight weeks onwards if the plants do not flower. These new potatoes are best eaten soon after harvesting, as they do not store well. Harvesting at this stage may slightly reduce the overall yield.

Pests & Diseases
• Common pests: Aphids, slugs, and wireworms.
• Diseases: Susceptible to blight and rot from poor drainage.
• Prevention: Rotate crops every 3–4 years, ensure good drainage, water at the base and remove infected plants promptly.

Green Potatoes
Exposed tubers can turn green due to exposure to sunlight and develop solanine, a naturally occurring toxin. To prevent this, ensure tubers are fully covered with soil or mulch during growth.

Caution: Do not eat green potatoes – they are toxic.

Supplied as dormant tubers.

Additional information

Price Code

D – Purple Pack
Botanical Name

Solanum tuberosum
Net Weight

2 kg
Harvesting Time

This variety typically matures in 90–140 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. They are ready to harvest when the foliage has fully died back.
Planting Time

Plant from autumn through to spring. Potatoes thrive during the cooler months, when soil temperatures are cool to warm. In some cooler regions, planting may extend into late summer where conditions remain favourable, which is why longer windows are sometimes listed. Alternative planting times are possible in many areas, though they may result in smaller harvests or reduced yields.
Cool Climates – Best planted: August to February. Alternative planting: July, March to May.
Temperate Climates – Best planted: August to October. Alternative planting: April to July and January.
Arid Climates – Best planted: August to December. Alternative planting: May to July.
Subtropical Climates – Best planted: August to October. Alternative planting: March to May.
Tropical Climates – Best planted: March to May. Alternative planting: August to October.
Planting Depth

Plant 15–20 cm deep in trenches, vegetable beds, and raised beds.
For pots and grow bags, plant into one-third of a combination of potting mix and compost, which is roughly 10 cm deep from the bottom of the pot.
Planting Width

For trenches, vegetable beds, or raised beds: Plant tubers 45 cm apart, with at least 50 cm between rows.
In pots or grow bags, plant 15 cm apart, ensuring space between them. Usually two to three potatoes per pot or grow bag.
Chitting (Pre-Sprouting)

Chitting encourages seed potatoes to sprout before planting, promoting stronger shoots, faster growth, and potentially higher yields. While not essential, it can be beneficial, especially for gardeners in frost-prone areas by giving potatoes a head start before planting. This is particularly useful for maincrop varieties, which take longer to mature.

Potatoes will sprout naturally in cool to warm soil, but chitting speeds up the process, making it ideal for early harvests or cooler climates. Many gardeners skip chitting in warmer regions or when planting later in the season, as warm soil encourages rapid sprouting. In these climates, planting during the coolest months helps avoid excessive heat. Excessive warmth can speed up sprouting and growth, but often at the expense of yield and plant strength. For the best results, plant when the soil is cool but beginning to warm.

How to Chit Seed Potatoes:
Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the eyes facing up in a cool, bright, frost-free spot such as a windowsill or greenhouse. Avoid direct sunlight or darkness, as weak, leggy shoots can break easily. In four to six weeks, short, sturdy green or purple shoots will form.
Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces after chitting. Each piece should be at least 4 to 6 cm long and contain one to two eyes. If cutting, allow the pieces to air dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to prevent rot.

After your seed potatoes have sprouted and the shoots reach approximately 1–2 cm, some sprouts can be left intact or a few removed by rubbing them off. If removing sprouts by cutting them out, allow the cut area to dry for at least 24 hours before planting to help prevent rot. Removing some sprouts helps the plant focus its energy, producing fewer but larger potatoes. Conversely, leaving more sprouts can increase overall yield by producing more, but smaller, potatoes.

Preparing Chitted Potatoes for Planting:
Once your seed potatoes have developed, handle them carefully to avoid breaking the sprouts when planting.
Soil

Plant in loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with a pH range of 5.0 to 6.5. Add compost or organic matter to improve fertility and moisture retention. Potatoes thrive in slightly acidic soil, so ensure the soil is loose and rich in organic material for optimal growth. Avoid heavy clay soils that retain too much water and cause rot. Depending on your soil type and climate, you may need to adjust the mix further by adding sand for heavy clay soils, extra organic matter for sandy soils, or mulch to help retain moisture in dry regions. In scab-prone areas, maintaining a soil pH of 5.0 to 5.2 helps reduce infection risk but may result in smaller yields.
For containers, use a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost, ensuring good drainage to prevent waterlogging. Choose a deep container at least 40 cm deep to allow proper root and tuber development.
How to Plant

Location: Choose a sunny spot for planting, whether in the garden, raised beds, pots, or grow bags. Potatoes need at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for healthy growth and high yields. In very hot climates, some afternoon shade can help prevent stress and sunburn on the plants.

Pots and Grow Bags: Fill one-third of the pot or grow bag with a high-quality potting mix and compost. Place seed potatoes on the mix, eyes facing up, spaced 15 cm apart. Cover with 5–10 cm of compost. When shoots reach 10 cm, add another 5–10 cm of compost, leaving half the leaves exposed. Repeat until the container is full, then top with mulch. Place the pot or grow bag in a sunny position and water regularly.
Trenches: Dig trenches 25–30 cm deep, placing the removed soil to the sides to make hilling easier as plants grow. Add 10 cm of compost, mixing fertiliser into it before placing in the trench, or sprinkle fertiliser over the compost after placing. Space seed potatoes 45 cm apart and leave at least 50 cm between rows. Backfill the trench with the soil and compost mixture, then water well. As plants grow, gradually draw soil from the sides to hill them up, aiming to build 25–30 cm of coverage for tuber protection and moisture retention. Mulch if needed.
Vegetable Beds and Raised Beds: Use either the trench method or dig individual holes. Prepare beds with well-draining soil and compost before planting. For the trench method, dig trenches 25–30 cm deep, sprinkle a complete fertiliser, and place tubers 45 cm apart. Cover lightly with soil and gradually fill the trench as plants grow. Alternatively, dig holes 15–20 cm deep and 45 cm apart, sprinkle fertiliser into each hole, place tubers inside, backfill with soil mixture, and water thoroughly.
As plants grow, gently hoe soil and compost around the stems to create a deeper column for tuber development. Continue hilling until 25–30 cm coverage is achieved or until further hilling is not possible or the plants shade themselves. This protects tubers, retains moisture, and encourages higher yields.
In subtropical and tropical climates, planting in raised beds or mounded rows improves drainage and helps prevent waterlogging during the wet season.
Please note: Maincrop potatoes grow best in raised beds and vegetable beds, where they have space to develop larger tubers and higher yields. If grown in grow bags or small containers, the harvested potatoes may be smaller than expected. For indeterminate potatoes, we recommend planting only two to three seed potatoes per grow bag to allow sufficient room for growth.
Watering

Keep moist without overwatering, especially in hot, dry climates or when planted in pots, as they dry out quicker. Moving black pots to areas with dappled shade is fine, but ensure they receive 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Stop watering two weeks before harvesting to allow skins to thicken and toughen, helping them store longer.
Fertilise

Use a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone, or a fertiliser specialised for vegetables. Mixing fertiliser into the compost at planting helps improve yields. In containers or grow bags, additional fertiliser can be sprinkled between layers as plants grow to support tuber development. For potatoes grown in the ground or raised beds, layering fertiliser isn’t necessary, but side dressing later in the season can help maintain healthy growth if needed.
Harvest

‘Russet Burbank’ potatoes typically mature in 90–140 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. In warmer climates, they often reach maturity sooner than in cooler regions.

For an early taste, you can harvest ‘Russet Burbank’ as new or chat potatoes about two to three weeks after flowering. These small, tender tubers have thin skins and are best eaten fresh, as they do not store well. This method, known as bandicooting, involves gently feeling around the base of the plant and removing a few developing tubers while leaving the rest to continue growing. If your potatoes don’t flower, begin checking from around eight weeks onward by carefully digging around the base to harvest young tubers. Early harvesting may slightly reduce the final yield.

For the main harvest, the clearest sign of maturity is when the foliage begins to yellow and die back. Once this occurs, stop watering and leave the tubers in the soil for another two to three weeks to allow the skins to firm. When the foliage has completely died back, the crop is ready to lift. You can check readiness by gently digging up one tuber and inspecting the skin. Mature potatoes will have firm skins that do not rub off easily.

To harvest, carefully dig around the plant in garden beds, trenches, or raised beds to lift the tubers without damage. In pots or grow bags, tip the container on its side or open the access panel for easier removal.

Drying and Storage
After harvesting, allow the potatoes to dry to remove excess surface moisture and reduce the risk of rot. This also helps toughen the skins for better long-term storage. In mild climates, lay them loosely on top of the soil for a couple of hours out of direct sunlight. In hot climates, move them to a cool, shaded, well-ventilated area and spread them in a single layer.

Gently brush off any excess soil, but avoid washing, as this shortens their storage life. Store only mature potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space such as a pantry, cupboard, garage, or shed with stable temperatures. Use mesh bags or breathable containers to allow airflow and prevent moisture build-up.

‘Russet Burbank’ stores well for several months when cured and stored correctly. Check stored potatoes periodically and remove any that show signs of sprouting, softening, or rot. Storage performance may vary depending on your region and growing conditions.
Pests and Diseases

Potatoes are prone to pests and diseases, including aphids, slugs, wireworms, blight, rot, and scab. To minimise issues, rotate crops every 3 to 4 years and plant only Certified Seed Potatoes. Avoid planting in areas previously used for grasses or pasture, which can increase the risk of wireworms. Maintain consistent, below-leaf watering to reduce humidity around foliage and discourage disease. Ensure the soil is well-drained and suited to their growing conditions, whether in garden beds, raised beds, or containers.

Aphids: Check leaves regularly and remove aphids by hand or with a strong spray of water. If necessary, use insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Slugs: Use beer traps, copper tape, or apply iron phosphate slug pellets to reduce damage, especially in damp areas.

Wireworms: Use cut potato bait traps to monitor wireworm populations and cultivate the soil thoroughly before planting to disrupt larvae. Solarise the soil if infestations persist.

Blight: Ensure good airflow between plants and avoid overhead watering. Remove and destroy infected foliage immediately. Use Certified Seed Potatoes and practice crop rotation every 3–4 years to avoid soil-borne issues and reduce pest build-up.

Rot: Improve drainage and avoid overwatering. Remove and discard any soft or rotting tubers during harvest and storage.

Scab: If your site is prone to scab or shows signs of alkalinity, lower soil pH to around 5.0 to 5.2 using elemental sulphur or acid-producing fertilisers such as ammonium sulphate. This helps suppress scab-causing bacteria. Avoid adding lime, wood ash, or fresh manure before planting, as these can raise pH. In heavier soils, improve drainage or grow in raised beds to help prevent water retention. If lowering pH is necessary, prepare the soil several weeks to a few months before planting, as amendments take time to take effect.

If scab appears, there are two common types: common scab, which causes rough, corky patches, and powdery scab, which produces raised pustules and may lead to rot in storage. Though mostly cosmetic, affected potatoes should be peeled before use and eaten sooner rather than stored. Discard any soft or damaged tubers, and do not use scabbed potatoes for replanting.
Clean growing conditions, consistent watering, and well-prepared soil all contribute to a healthier, more productive potato crop.
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