Description
Quarantine Note: Due to quarantine restrictions, potato onion bulbs cannot be sent to Western Australia or Tasmania.
Potato Onion
Potato Onion (Allium cepa var. aggregatum) is a reliable, easy-to-grow multiplying onion with a mellow, full-flavoured taste. Also known as Mother, Nesting, or Pregnant Onions, this variety is larger than shallots but smaller than standard onions, with a rich, mellow flavour that falls between a mild onion and a stronger shallot. Grown much like shallots, they are a fuss-free crop with fewer tendencies to flower, making them a more reliable option for storage. In ideal conditions, bulbs can be stored for 6–8 months or longer. With just a few saved bulbs, you can keep your crop going year after year, making Potato Onions a smart and sustainable addition to any productive garden.
How Potato Onions Grow
Potato Onions grow from individual whole bulbs that multiply underground, forming clusters of 10–12 new bulbs per plant. Each bulb should be firm and intact, with a healthy base where roots and shoots will develop. After planting, growth begins as the soil warms—roots emerge first, followed by green leafy shoots above ground. As the season progresses, the bulb divides below the surface to form a productive clump. Strong, upright foliage is a sign of healthy growth. Plants mature in summer when the tops yellow and flop. You can harvest slightly earlier for fresh use, though bulbs lifted too soon may be smaller and won’t store as well.
Planting Time and Climate
Best suited to cool, temperate, arid, and semi-arid climates with mild to cold winters and steady spring conditions. In warmer, dry-winter areas, plant in autumn to allow bulbs to establish before the heat. In cooler or wet-winter areas, plant from late winter to early spring to avoid soggy soil and support healthy growth.
Potato Onions are less prone to bolting than shallots, but following these times encourages strong early growth and reliable harvests. Choose a full sun position with airflow and well-drained soil—avoid shaded or damp spots.
Site and Soil Preparation
Plant in rich, well-drained soil with a pH around 6.5. Improve soil structure with compost, and use well-rotted manure sparingly to avoid excess nitrogen. If your soil is acidic, apply lime several months before planting. In poor soils, add blood and bone or a low-nitrogen fertiliser. Raised beds are ideal in heavy or damp conditions.
How to Plant
Plant bulbs base-down with the neck level with the soil surface. Potato Onions don’t need to be planted as deeply as other shallots, but should be firm and well anchored to prevent disturbance from wind or rain. Space bulbs 20–40 cm apart, with 30–60 cm between rows for clump formation.
Mulching is optional but beneficial, helping to suppress weeds and retain moisture. Apply after shoots emerge in cool or wet regions, or after planting in warmer, drier areas. Keep mulch clear of bulb necks.
Growing in Pots
Use wide tubs at least 30 cm deep to allow room for root development and clump formation. Plant bulbs 1–5 cm deep and 20–40 cm apart, with the tips just visible above the surface. Smaller tubs may restrict growth and limit bulb numbers. Use a well-draining, compost-enriched potting mix. In cooler or wet climates, bulbs can be started early in trays or small pots and transplanted when conditions improve.
Watering
Water lightly if the soil is dry after planting. Keep soil evenly moist during growth, watering when the surface dries. Avoid soggy soil. Reduce watering as bulbs form; stop once tops yellow and flop.
Fertilising
Use low-nitrogen fertiliser like blood and bone at planting. Feed lightly with nitrogen during active growth. Stop once bulbs begin swelling.
Mulching
Apply a light mulch once shoots appear and the soil warms. Use dry straw, sugarcane, compost, or grass clippings. In warm or dry areas, mulch can be applied after planting. Keep mulch away from bulb tips.
General Care
Weed regularly to reduce competition. Hand-weed to avoid root disturbance. Ensure good airflow. If bolting occurs, remove flower stalks promptly to encourage better bulb development. Bolting can’t be reversed and is usually triggered by cold or temperature stress. Bolted bulbs can still be eaten fresh but won’t store or regrow well.
Harvesting and Curing
Harvest when the tops yellow and flop. Lift gently and shake off soil. Cure in a dry, airy spot with indirect light for 2–3 weeks until skins are papery and necks dry. Keep foliage attached during curing to reduce rot. Once cured, trim tops and roots, then store in mesh bags or trays in a cool, dry, ventilated place with light to prevent sprouting. Use thick-necked or bolted bulbs fresh, as they don’t store well. Cured bulbs keep for 6–8 months.
You can snip some green tops for cooking, but leave at least half to support bulb growth. Save the largest bulbs for replanting next season.
Pests and Diseases
Potato Onions are generally hardy but can still face common onion pests and diseases, especially in poor conditions or reused soil.
Common issues include:
• Onion thrips – cause leaf streaks; treat with neem or insecticidal soap.
• Bulb mites – prevent by using healthy sets and crop rotation.
• Rodents/birds – protect with netting.
Diseases include:
• Downy mildew – leaf spots; improve airflow and remove infected plants.
• Neck rot – storage issue; prevent with proper curing.
• White rot – soil fungus; rotate crops to manage.
• Black mould – dark spots on bulbs; prevent with dry, well-ventilated storage.
Good drainage, airflow, weed control, and curing minimise problems.
Safety
Potato Onions are safe to eat cooked or raw. Supervise young children around planting areas and harvested bulbs. Like all onions, they can be toxic to pets, especially dogs and cats, if eaten in large amounts. Monitor pets and seek veterinary advice if illness occurs. Wear gloves if you have sensitive skin.
Supplied as dormant bulbs.