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Potato Onion – Loose

Potato Onions (Allium cepa var. aggregatum) are the perfect blend of flavour, resilience, and practicality. A natural cross between an onion and a shallot, they combine the rich, mellow taste of both in one versatile crop. Each bulb multiplies underground, forming clusters of richly flavoured, easy-to-use onions that are milder than standard onions but more robust than shallots. They’re incredibly low-maintenance, less prone to bolting, and store beautifully for up to 6–8 months when cured. Packed loose in quantities of 25, this bulk option is ideal for gardeners wanting to plant a large number at once for a full harvest and long-term supply. Best grown in full sun, they thrive in cool, temperate, arid, and semi-arid climates with mild to cold winters and steady spring conditions. Suitable for garden beds, raised beds, deep pots and tubs, they bring rich flavour and lasting value to your kitchen garden. Plant them once and, with just a few saved bulbs, enjoy reliable harvests for many years to come.

Description
Additional information

Description

Quarantine Note: Due to quarantine restrictions, potato onion bulbs cannot be sent to Western Australia or Tasmania.

Potato Onion
Potato Onion (Allium cepa var. aggregatum) is a reliable, easy-to-grow multiplying onion with a mellow, full-flavoured taste. Also known as Mother, Nesting, or Pregnant Onions, this variety is larger than shallots but smaller than standard onions, with a rich, mellow flavour that falls between the robustness of onions and the mildness of shallots. Grown much like shallots, they are a fuss-free crop with fewer tendencies to flower, making them a more reliable option for storage. In ideal conditions, bulbs can be stored for 6–8 months or longer. With just a few saved bulbs, you can keep your crop going year after year, making Potato Onions a smart and sustainable choice for home growers. For those looking to grow a full harvest or establish a long-term supply, loose packs offer the perfect solution.

Growth Cycle
Potato Onions grow from individual whole bulbs that multiply underground, forming clusters of 10–12 new bulbs per plant. Each bulb should be firm and intact, with a healthy base where roots and shoots will develop. After planting, growth begins as the soil warms. Roots emerge first, followed by green leafy shoots above ground. As the season progresses, the bulb divides below the surface to form a productive clump. Strong, upright foliage is a sign of healthy growth. Plants mature in summer when the tops yellow and flop. You can harvest slightly earlier for fresh use, though bulbs lifted too soon may be smaller and won’t store as well.

Planting Time and Climate
Best suited to cool, temperate, arid, and semi-arid climates with mild to cold winters and stable spring conditions. Plant from April to July.
• In frost-prone areas, delay planting until spring or start potato onions in pots and transplant after cold snaps pass.

Potato Onions are less prone to bolting than shallots, but following these times encourages strong early growth and reliable harvests. Choose a full sun position with airflow and well-drained soil. Avoid shaded or damp spots.

Site and Soil Preparation
Plant in rich, well-drained soil with a pH around 6.5. Improve soil structure with compost, and use well-rotted manure sparingly to avoid excess nitrogen. If your soil is acidic, apply lime several weeks before planting. In poor soils, add blood and bone or a low-nitrogen fertiliser. Raised beds are ideal in heavy or damp conditions.

How to Plant
Plant bulbs base-down with the neck level with the soil surface and the tip exposed. Potato Onions don’t need to be planted as deeply as other shallots but should be firm and well anchored to prevent disturbance from wind or rain. Space bulbs 20–40 cm apart, with 30–60 cm between rows for clump formation.

Mulching is optional but beneficial, helping to suppress weeds, retain moisture and reduce bolting caused by sudden temperature changes. Apply after shoots emerge in cool or wet regions, or after planting in warmer, drier areas. Keep mulch clear of bulb necks.

Growing in Pots
Use wide tubs at least 30 cm deep to allow room for root development and clump formation. Plant bulbs 1–5 cm deep and 20–40 cm apart, with the tips just visible above the surface. Smaller tubs may restrict growth and limit bulb numbers. Use a well-draining, compost-enriched potting mix. In cooler or wet climates, bulbs can be started early in trays or small pots and transplanted when conditions improve.

Watering
Water lightly if the soil is dry after planting. Keep soil evenly moist during growth, watering when the surface dries. Avoid soggy soil. Reduce watering as bulbs form; stop once tops yellow and flop.

Fertilising
Use a low-nitrogen fertiliser like blood and bone at planting. Feed lightly with nitrogen during active growth. Stop once bulbs begin swelling.

Mulching
Apply a light mulch once shoots appear and the soil warms. Use dry straw, sugarcane, compost, or grass clippings. In warm or dry areas, mulch can be applied after planting. Keep mulch away from bulb tips.

General Care
Weed regularly to reduce competition. Hand-weed to avoid root disturbance. Ensure good airflow. If bolting occurs, remove flower stalks promptly to encourage better bulb development. Bolting can’t be reversed and is usually triggered by cold or temperature stress. Bolting bulbs can still be eaten fresh, but won’t store or regrow well.

Harvesting and Curing
Harvest from summer to autumn, when the tops turn yellow and flop. Lift gently and shake off soil. Cure in a dry, airy spot with indirect light for 2–3 weeks until skins are papery and necks dry. Keep foliage attached during curing to reduce rot. Once cured, trim tops and roots, then store in mesh bags or trays in a cool, dry, ventilated place with light to prevent sprouting. Use thick-necked or bolted bulbs fresh, as they don’t store well. Cured bulbs keep for 6–8 months.

You can snip some green tops for cooking, but leave at least half to support bulb growth. Save the healthiest bulbs for replanting next season.

Pests and Diseases
Potato Onions are generally hardy but can still face common onion pests and diseases, especially in poor conditions or reused soil.

Common issues include:
• Onion thrips – cause leaf streaks; treat with neem or insecticidal soap.
• Bulb mites – prevent by using healthy sets and crop rotation.
• Rodents/birds – protect with netting.
Diseases include:
• Downy mildew – leaf spots; improve airflow and remove infected plants.
• Neck rot – storage issue; prevent with proper curing.
• White rot – soil fungus; rotate crops to manage.
• Black mould – dark spots on bulbs; prevent with dry, well-ventilated storage.
Maintain good drainage, airflow, weed control, and proper curing to minimise problems and keep your crop healthy.

Safety
Potato Onions are safe to eat cooked or raw. Supervise young children around planting areas and harvested bulbs. Like all onions, they can be toxic to pets, especially dogs and cats, if eaten in large amounts. Monitor pets and seek veterinary advice if illness occurs. Wear gloves if you have sensitive skin.

Supplied as dormant bulbs.

Additional information

Botanical Name	Allium cepa var. aggregatum
Quantity in Pack	25 Bulbs
Harvest Time	Harvest typically occurs between December and January, following the main autumn planting period. In warmer regions or when planting occurs earlier in autumn, bulbs may mature slightly sooner and can be harvested during the warmer months. Conversely, if planted later, such as in spring, harvest may extend into late summer to autumn. Monitor plants closely for signs of readiness before lifting, as maturity timing can vary depending on planting time and local climate.
Planting Time	Plant from April to July. In warmer regions, planting can begin in April, as extended mild conditions allow the bulbs to establish well before summer. In cooler or wet regions, planting during this period is still suitable, but extra care is needed in areas with cold, wet winters prone to hard frosts. While Potato Onions prefer moist soil, they are prone to rot in waterlogged conditions. In poorly draining soils, consider using raised beds to improve conditions and allow for safer early planting. In particularly frost-prone or saturated areas with temperature fluctuations, it may be safer to delay planting until spring, once the soil is more workable and the risk of hard frosts has passed. Alternatively, potato onions can be started in pots and transplanted outdoors once conditions are safer. This supports healthy establishment and reduces the risk of premature flowering, which can lead to misshapen bulbs and poor storage. Although bolting is uncommon in Potato Onions, it is not unlikely. It can occur when plants are exposed to temperature extremes, such as cold snaps shortly after planting or heat stress during rapid seasonal changes. Maintaining stable growing conditions helps minimise this risk and encourages strong bulb development. Some gardeners choose to plant around the winter solstice, depending on local conditions, but the ideal timing ultimately depends on climate, soil readiness, and frost risk.
Planting Depth	Plant bulbs so the neck sits at soil level with the tip exposed. Potato Onions can be planted shallower than other shallots, but ensure they’re firm in the soil to stay anchored and undisturbed by weather.
Planting Width	Space each bulb 20–40 cm apart and 30-60 cm apart in between rows.
Soil	Potato Onions grow best in rich, organic, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH around 6.5. Testing your soil pH before planting is helpful, as these onions don’t perform well in strongly acidic conditions. To improve structure and fertility, add compost or well-rotted organic matter. Compost is stable, safe, and improves texture and drainage without greatly altering pH. Avoid fresh manure. It’s high in ammonia and salts, which can burn roots and young bulbs. If well-rotted manure is your only option, use it moderately and mix it well into the soil. Excessive manure, especially in acidic soils, can lead to nutrient imbalance, soft growth, and poor bulb development. Always retest the pH after adding manure, and apply lime if it drops below 6.5. In heavy or poorly drained soils, compost is particularly useful for improving texture and reducing rot risk. You can also blend in coarse materials like sand or grit. Raised beds or mounded rows help prevent waterlogging and bulb rot. If you’re not using compost or manure, apply a low-nitrogen fertiliser like blood and bone when preparing the soil to support strong root and bulb development. If organic matter is added, a light fertiliser application can still be beneficial, just avoid overfeeding, as too much nitrogen can lead to excessive leafy growth at the expense of bulb size and storage quality. For deep pots and tubs, use a well-draining, quality potting mix enriched with compost or aged manure. Ensure the container is at least 30 cm deep to allow bulbs to develop fully.
How to Plant	Choose a sunny, sheltered position that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Potato Onions grow best in full sun with good airflow, which encourages strong foliage and reduces the risk of fungal issues like downy mildew. Avoid shaded or overly damp spots, especially in high rainfall areas. Once the site is prepared, plant each bulb base-down with the neck level with the soil surface and the tip exposed. Potato Onions don’t need to be planted as deeply as other shallots, but they should be firmly anchored to prevent movement from wind or rain. Space bulbs 20–40 cm apart, with 30–60 cm between rows to allow for clump formation and airflow. If the soil is dry at planting time, water in lightly to settle the soil. If there’s already enough moisture, additional watering isn’t necessary. Mulch is optional but beneficial—it helps suppress weeds and retain soil moisture. In cool or wet regions, apply mulch after shoots emerge. In warmer or drier areas, mulch can be applied after planting. Keep mulch clear of the bulb necks to prevent smothering. Potato Onions can also be grown in deep pots or tubs, at least 30 cm deep, using a quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost.
Watering	Water lightly after planting, especially if the soil is dry, to help settle the bulbs and encourage root establishment. During the active growth phase, keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged, watering when the surface feels dry to the touch. Potato onions are sensitive to soggy conditions, which can lead to bulb rot and fungal diseases, so avoid overwatering. Hot, dry conditions can cause stress and increase the risk of bolting. Consistent moisture not only supports strong bulb development but also helps regulate soil temperature and reduce heat-related stress that may lead to premature flowering. As the season progresses and leafy growth is well established, begin to reduce watering gradually. This encourages the bulbs to mature properly and improves their storage quality. About two weeks before harvest, withhold watering entirely to allow the bulbs to dry out and firm up before lifting. Allowing the soil to dry out at this stage helps prevent rot and prolongs bulb shelf life. The tops will be yellow and flop over, indicating the end of active growth and that the bulbs are ready for harvest. Healthy, vigorous leafy growth by late spring is a good indicator of a promising harvest, as it supports strong bulb development. In pots, water more frequently than in garden beds, as container soil dries out faster. Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged, allowing the top few centimetres to dry slightly between waterings. Ensure pots have good drainage to prevent rot.
Fertilise	Apply a low-nitrogen fertiliser when preparing the soil to promote strong root development and establish healthy plants without encouraging excessive leafy growth that can delay bulb formation. When growth appears, apply nitrogen-rich fertilisers to support vigorous leaf development, which is essential for producing large, healthy bulbs. Be careful not to over-fertilise, as too much nitrogen during bulb swelling can result in soft, lush growth that reduces bulb firmness and shortens storage life. Stop fertilising once the bulbs begin to swell to encourage the plant to focus energy on bulb maturation. For best results, follow manufacturer instructions and adjust feeding based on soil fertility and plant health. In pots, nutrients can deplete more quickly, so feed with a balanced, slow-release fertiliser at planting time. Supplement with a liquid fertiliser every 3–4 weeks during active growth to support strong bulb development. Avoid high-nitrogen formulas, which can promote leafy growth over bulbs.
Harvest	Harvest Potato Onions when the tops yellow and flop. This signals that bulb growth has finished, and skin formation has begun. For best results, harvest on a dry day to minimise the risk of mould or rot during curing. If conditions are damp, gently lift the bulbs and lay them out under cover with good airflow. Shake off excess soil. Bulbs picked too early may be used fresh but won’t store well. In regions prone to excessive humidity or wet summer weather, monitor plants closely in the final weeks of growth. Once the tops begin to yellow and flop, be prepared to harvest promptly, especially if extended rainfall or high humidity is forecast. Early lifting at the correct stage and curing under cover can help prevent rot and fungal problems. Curing helps the bulbs dry fully and form a protective papery skin. Lay them in a dry, shaded, well-ventilated space for 2–3 weeks. Avoid direct sun, and keep the foliage attached to allow moisture to escape and prevent rot. Once cured, trim roots and tops, then store bulbs loosely in mesh bags or shallow trays in a cool, dry, ventilated space with indirect light. Hanging mesh bags improves airflow and reduces mould risk. Avoid plastic or sealed containers. Discard any soft or damaged bulbs, as they are more likely to rot or affect healthy ones. Properly cured Potato Onions can store for 6–8 months, or longer in ideal conditions. While the bulbs are maturing, some green tops can be harvested and used like spring onions but always leave at least half of each leaf to support bulb development. Potato Onions are known for their mellow, full-flavoured taste and are excellent for roasting, caramelising, and adding to soups, stews, and casseroles. They store better and are more resilient than standard onions, making them a dependable crop for home gardeners. Bolting is uncommon, but if flowering occurs, remove the stalk promptly. Bolted bulbs can be eaten fresh but should not be stored or replanted. To continue growing Potato Onions each year, save the healthiest bulbs for replanting.

Potato Onion – Loose

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Additional information

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