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Certified Seed Potato Nadine 1 KG Pack

Looking for a reliable, delicious, and easy-to-grow potato? Meet Certified Seed Potato Nadine (Solanum tuberosum), a standout variety with smooth, round tubers, creamy skin, and pale yellow flesh that delivers a firm yet velvety texture in every bite. Naturally high in vitamin C, it offers both excellent flavour and nutritional value. Its mild, buttery flavour and firm flesh make it perfect for boiling, mashing, microwaving, salads, and casseroles, holding its shape beautifully for flawless dishes every time. Highly productive and adaptable, Nadine can be grown in a wide range of climates and thrives in vegetable beds, raised beds, and containers, making it an excellent choice for gardeners of all spaces. Easy to grow and rewarding to harvest, this variety will keep your kitchen stocked with top-quality homegrown potatoes that store well when matured and cured correctly.

SKU: TCSPONAD1KG Category: Edible Produce Tags: Potato, Potato Nadine, Solanum tuberosum

Description
Additional information

Description

Important Shipping Information
Seed potatoes cannot be sent to WA, TAS, or NT due to quarantine restrictions.

Potato ‘Nadine’ (Solanum tuberosum)
Potato ‘Nadine’ is an early maincrop, determinate variety that produces smooth, round, cream-skinned tubers with pale yellow flesh, offering a firm yet velvety texture and a mild, creamy flavour. Nadine holds its shape well when cooked, making it ideal for boiling, mashing, microwaving, salads, and roasting. As a determinate type, it produces tubers in a single layer and does not require hilling or mounding during growth. Thriving in vegetable beds, raised beds, and containers, it is a reliable, productive variety that performs well in a wide range of climates. Nadine typically matures in 90–120 days.

Best Planting Times by Climate
Potatoes are suitable for a wide range of climates and perform reliably when planted during the cooler months. Typically planted from autumn through to spring, they benefit from growing in cooler soil before summer heat arrives. For optimal growth, plant within the recommended windows below. Alternative planting times are possible, but may result in smaller yields.
• Cool Climates – August to February | Alternative: July, March–May
• Temperate Climates – August to October | Alternative: April–July, January
• Arid Climates – August to December | Alternative: May–July
• Subtropical Climates – August to October | Alternative: March–May
• Tropical Climates – March-May | Alternative: August–October

Frost Considerations
Potatoes prefer cool to warm conditions but are sensitive to frost. In areas with light frost, you can plant 2–3 weeks before the last expected frost, as sprouting takes time. In heavy frost zones, wait until conditions warm or pre-sprout seed potatoes indoors to get a head start. For early crops, use frost cloths, mulch, or grow bags in sheltered areas.

Chitting and Cutting Seed Potatoes
Chitting is the process of encouraging seed potatoes to sprout before planting. This helps them develop stronger shoots and begin growing faster once they are in the soil. While not essential, chitting is especially helpful for gardeners in frost-prone areas, as it gives the potatoes a head start.

Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces to increase the number of plants, but smaller potatoes should be planted whole to maintain strong yields. Always let cut pieces dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to form a protective layer that lowers the risk of rot and disease. After chitting, some sprouts can be removed to focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger potatoes, or left intact for a higher yield of smaller tubers. If cutting out sprouts, let the cut surface dry for 24 hours before planting to prevent rot.

How to Chit and Prepare:
• Place seed potatoes with the eyes facing up in a cool, dry, bright spot for 4–6 weeks until short, sturdy sprouts develop.
• Cut tubers after chitting, ensuring each piece has 1–2 eyes. Leave small potatoes whole.
• Once sprouts are about 1–2 cm long, either leave them intact or remove a few.
• Plant the seed potatoes once soil conditions are suitable.

Soil Requirements
Use loose, well-draining soil enriched with compost. For containers, use a quality potting mix blended 1:1 with compost. Containers should be at least 40 cm deep.

Location: Plant in full sun, ensuring they receive 6–8 hours of sunlight daily. In very hot climates or during periods of extreme heat, provide the plant with some afternoon shade to protect it from heat stress and sunburn.

How to Plant Potatoes
• Trenches: Dig 20–30 cm deep and 20 cm wide, spaced at least 50 cm apart. Add 10 cm of compost and scatter a complete fertiliser along the trench. Place seed potatoes 10–20 cm deep with the eyes facing up, spaced 30–45 cm apart. Cover with soil, water in well, and apply a light mulch.
• Raised Beds: Use the trench method, placing seed potatoes 10–20 cm deep and 20–30 cm apart. Adjust row spacing to fit your bed. Cover with soil, water in, and mulch.
• Containers/Grow Bags: Add 10 cm of blended potting mix and compost with fertiliser. Plant 1–2 seed potatoes per layer, spaced apart. Cover with 10 cm of soil, add a second layer if desired, and then top up with 10–15 cm of soil to fill the pot. Water them in well after planting and apply mulch.

Fertilising
Incorporate a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone or a vegetable blend, into the soil at planting. Determinate potatoes grown in the ground often won’t need additional feeding, though a light mid-season top-up can be beneficial. In containers, nutrients deplete more quickly, so an extra feed may be required. Avoid over-fertilising, as it can lead to excessive leafy growth instead of tubers.

Mounding & Mulching
Determinate varieties produce all their tubers in a single layer. After shoots reach 5–10 cm, mound just enough soil or mulch, such as straw or hay, to cover any exposed tubers. No repeated mounding is typically needed, but check regularly to ensure tubers are not exposed, especially in wet conditions. Mulching helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and protects developing tubers from sunlight, promoting healthy growth.

Watering
Keep soil consistently moist. Dry spells can toughen the skins and increase the chance of scab. In hot or dry conditions, check the soil regularly, especially in pots. Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest to help firm the skins.

Harvesting
Potato ‘Nadine’ matures in 90–120 days, depending on the climate. For the main crop, stop watering when the foliage begins to yellow and die back. Leave the tubers in the soil for a further 2–3 weeks to allow the skins to firm. By this time, the foliage should have completely died back, and the crop will be ready to harvest. After lifting, dry the potatoes in a cool, shaded, well-ventilated area out of direct sunlight. Store in mesh bags or breathable containers in a cool, dark, ventilated place, and use within a few months.

Bandicooting for Early Potatoes
Potatoes can be harvested as fresh new potatoes with thin skins and tender flesh before they reach full maturity. This process is called bandicooting. To harvest, gently dig around the base of the plant and remove a few young tubers. This can be done about two to three weeks after flowering, or from eight weeks onwards if the plants do not flower. These new potatoes are best eaten soon after harvesting, as they do not store well. Harvesting at this stage may slightly reduce the overall yield.

Pests & Diseases
• Common pests: Aphids, slugs, and wireworms.
• Diseases: Susceptible to blight and rot from poor drainage.
• Prevention: Rotate crops every 3–4 years, ensure good drainage, water at the base and remove infected plants promptly.

Green Potatoes
Exposed tubers can turn green due to exposure to sunlight and develop solanine, a naturally occurring toxin. To prevent this, ensure tubers are fully covered with soil or mulch during growth.

Caution: Do not eat green potatoes – they are toxic.

Supplied as dormant tubers.

Additional information

Price Code	C – Orange Pack
Botanical Name	Solanum tuberosum
Net Weight	1 kg
Harvesting Time	This variety typically matures in 90–120 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. Harvest once the foliage has fully died back.
Planting Time	Plant from autumn through to spring. Potatoes thrive during the cooler months, when soil temperatures are cool to warm. In some cooler regions, planting may extend into late summer where conditions remain favourable, which is why longer windows are sometimes listed. Alternative planting times are possible in many areas, though they may result in smaller harvests or reduced yields. Cool Climates – Best planted: August to February. Alternative planting: July, March to May. Temperate Climates – Best planted: August to October. Alternative planting: April to July and January. Arid Climates – Best planted: August to December. Alternative planting: May to July. Subtropical Climates – Best planted: August to October. Alternative planting: March to May. Tropical Climates – Best planted: March to May. Alternative planting: August to October.
Planting Depth	Plant 10–20 cm deep in trenches, vegetable beds, and raised beds. For containers, use a layering technique when planting more than one potato. Add 10–15 cm, or one-third, of a 1:1 mix of potting mix and compost to the bottom, place two seed potatoes, and cover with soil. Add a second layer of potatoes, then cover with the remaining 10–15 cm of soil to fill the pot. This method allows you to grow up to four potatoes per pot while maximising space. Alternatively, if planting one potato per pot, place the seed potato at a depth of 10–20 cm. This depth provides the space needed for the tuber to grow properly and stay protected from sunlight. Cover with soil or mulch and allow the potato to grow naturally, with minimal mounding required.
Planting Width	For trenches: Plant tubers 30–45 cm apart, with at least 50 cm between rows. For raised beds: Plant 20–30 cm apart, adjusting row spacing to suit bed width. In pots or grow bags, plant up to two seed potatoes per layer to ensure each has adequate space to grow properly. Four potatoes per pot, two per layer, is sufficient to achieve a healthy yield, as determinate potatoes grow in a concentrated layer and do not produce tubers vertically along the stem like indeterminate varieties.
Chitting (Pre-Sprouting)	Chitting encourages seed potatoes to sprout before planting, promoting stronger shoots, faster growth, and potentially higher yields. While not essential, it can be beneficial, especially for gardeners in frost-prone areas by giving potatoes a head start before planting. This is particularly useful for maincrop varieties, which take longer to mature. Potatoes will sprout naturally in cool to warm soil, but chitting speeds up the process, making it ideal for early harvests or cooler climates. Many gardeners skip chitting in warmer regions or when planting later in the season, as warm soil encourages rapid sprouting. In these climates, planting during the coolest months helps avoid excessive heat. Excessive warmth can speed up sprouting and growth, but often at the expense of yield and plant strength. For the best results, plant when the soil is cool but beginning to warm. How to Chit Seed Potatoes: Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the eyes facing up in a cool, bright, frost-free spot such as a windowsill or greenhouse. Avoid direct sunlight or darkness, as weak, leggy shoots can break easily. In four to six weeks, short, sturdy green or purple shoots will form. Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces after chitting. Each piece should be at least 4 to 6 cm long and contain one to two eyes. If cutting, allow the pieces to air dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to prevent rot. After your seed potatoes have sprouted and the shoots reach approximately 1–2 cm, some sprouts can be left intact or a few removed by rubbing them off. If removing sprouts by cutting them out, allow the cut area to dry for at least 24 hours before planting to help prevent rot. Removing some sprouts helps the plant focus its energy, producing fewer but larger potatoes. Conversely, leaving more sprouts can increase overall yield by producing more, but smaller, potatoes. Preparing Chitted Potatoes for Planting: Once your seed potatoes have developed, handle them carefully to avoid breaking the sprouts when planting.
Soil	Plant in loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with a pH range of 5.0 to 6.5. Add compost or organic matter to improve fertility and moisture retention. Potatoes thrive in slightly acidic soil, so ensure the soil is loose and rich in organic material for optimal growth. Avoid heavy clay soils that retain too much water and cause rot. Depending on your soil type and climate, you may need to adjust the mix further by adding sand for heavy clay soils, extra organic matter for sandy soils, or mulch to help retain moisture in dry regions. In scab-prone areas, maintaining a soil pH of 5.0 to 5.2 helps reduce infection risk but may result in smaller yields. For containers, use a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost, ensuring good drainage to prevent waterlogging. Choose a deep container at least 40 cm deep to allow proper root and tuber development.
How to Plant	Location: Choose a sunny spot for planting, whether in the garden, raised beds, pots, or grow bags. Potatoes need at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for healthy growth and high yields. In very hot climates, some afternoon shade can help prevent stress and sunburn on the plants. Pots and Grow Bags: Fill about 10–15 cm, roughly one-third, of the pot or grow bag with a 1:1 mix of potting mix and compost. Place the seed potatoes eyes up on the first 10 cm layer of mix and cover with another 10 cm of soil. Add a second layer of potatoes, then cover with the remaining 10–15 cm of soil to fill the pot, ensuring enough space for healthy, vertical growth. This method is ideal for two to four potatoes per pot, allowing them to grow in layers. Once the container is full, add mulch to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Place the pot or grow bag in a sunny position and water regularly to keep the soil consistently moist. Trenches, vegetable beds and raised beds: For trenches, vegetable beds, and raised beds, it’s best to dig trenches to provide the necessary space for potatoes to grow, as they develop in a horizontal layer rather than forming tubers up the stem. To create trenches, dig to a depth of 20–30 cm to ensure the potatoes are planted at a depth of 10–20 cm, providing adequate protection from sunlight and heat. Place the removed soil to the sides of the trench. Add 10 cm of compost, mixing the fertiliser into the compost before placing it in the trench, or sprinkle the fertiliser over the compost once it's in place. Space potatoes 30–45 cm apart in trenches, leaving at least 50 cm between rows. In raised beds, space potatoes 20–30 cm apart, adjusting row spacing to suit the bed size while ensuring enough room for tuber development. Backfill the trench with the remaining soil and compost mixture, then water well. Determinate potatoes do not require continuous hilling, but may need one-time mounding to cover any exposed tubers. Afterward, apply mulch to help with moisture retention and weed suppression. If needed, additional mulch can be added later for extra protection. In subtropical and tropical climates, planting in raised beds or mounded rows can help improve drainage and prevent waterlogging during the wet season. Please note: As an early maincrop variety, Nadine performs best when given enough space to develop strong yields. It thrives in raised beds and vegetable beds, but can also be grown in grow bags or containers, where careful spacing will help optimise growth. If using grow bags, we recommend planting only up to four seed potatoes per bag to allow sufficient room for development.
Watering	Keep moist without overwatering, especially in hot, dry climates or when planted in pots, as they dry out quicker. Moving black pots to areas with dappled shade is fine, but ensure they receive 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Stop watering two weeks before harvesting to allow skins to thicken and toughen, helping them store longer.
Fertilise	Use a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone or a vegetable-specific blend. Mixing fertiliser into the compost or soil at planting supports healthy growth and yield. In containers or grow bags, nutrients deplete faster, so a light side dressing may be needed later in the season. For potatoes grown in the ground or raised beds, additional fertiliser is usually unnecessary, but a top-up can be applied mid-season if growth slows or foliage appears pale.
Harvest	Potato ‘Nadine’ typically matures in 90–120 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. In warmer regions, potatoes may mature more quickly, while cooler areas may require more time. For an early taste, you can harvest new or chat potatoes about two to three weeks after flowering. These small, tender tubers have thin skins and are best eaten fresh, as they do not store well. This method, known as bandicooting, involves gently feeling around the base of the plant and removing a few developing potatoes while leaving the rest to mature. If your potatoes don’t flower, begin checking from around eight weeks onward by carefully digging around the base to harvest young tubers. Early harvesting may slightly reduce overall yield. For the main harvest, wait until the foliage begins to yellow and die back, then stop watering. Leave the tubers in the ground for another two to three weeks to allow the skins to firm. Leaving them in the soil at this stage helps improve their suitability for storage. Once the foliage has completely died back, the crop is ready to be lifted. To harvest, carefully dig around the plant with a fork or hands to lift the tubers without damaging them. In pots and grow bags, tip the container on its side or open the side panel for easy access. After harvesting, allow the potatoes to dry to remove excess moisture and reduce the risk of rot. In mild climates, spread them on top of the soil for a couple of hours out of direct sunlight. In hot climates, move them to a shaded, well-ventilated area and spread them in a single layer. Avoid washing, as this shortens their storage life. Store potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space such as a pantry, cupboard, or shed, using mesh bags or breathable containers. Mature potatoes with firm skins that do not rub off easily generally store better, but it’s best to monitor stored potatoes regularly and use them before signs of sprouting or softening appear.
Pests and Diseases	Potatoes are prone to pests and diseases, including aphids, slugs, wireworms, blight, rot, and scab. To minimise issues, rotate crops every 3 to 4 years and plant only Certified Seed Potatoes. Avoid planting in areas previously used for grasses or pasture, which can increase the risk of wireworms. Maintain consistent, below-leaf watering to reduce humidity around foliage and discourage disease. Ensure the soil is well-drained and suited to their growing conditions, whether in garden beds, raised beds, or containers. Aphids: Check leaves regularly and remove aphids by hand or with a strong spray of water. If necessary, use insecticidal soap or neem oil. Slugs: Use beer traps, copper tape, or apply iron phosphate slug pellets to reduce damage, especially in damp areas. Wireworms: Use cut potato bait traps to monitor wireworm populations and cultivate the soil thoroughly before planting to disrupt larvae. Solarise the soil if infestations persist. Blight: Ensure good airflow between plants and avoid overhead watering. Remove and destroy infected foliage immediately. Use Certified Seed Potatoes and practice crop rotation every 3–4 years to avoid soil-borne issues and reduce pest build-up. Rot: Improve drainage and avoid overwatering. Remove and discard any soft or rotting tubers during harvest and storage. Scab: If your site is prone to scab or shows signs of alkalinity, lower soil pH to around 5.0 to 5.2 using elemental sulphur or acid-producing fertilisers such as ammonium sulphate. This helps suppress scab-causing bacteria. Avoid adding lime, wood ash, or fresh manure before planting, as these can raise pH. In heavier soils, improve drainage or grow in raised beds to help prevent water retention. If lowering pH is necessary, prepare the soil several weeks to a few months before planting, as amendments take time to take effect. If scab appears, there are two common types: common scab, which causes rough, corky patches, and powdery scab, which produces raised pustules and may lead to rot in storage. Though mostly cosmetic, affected potatoes should be peeled before use and eaten sooner rather than stored. Discard any soft or damaged tubers, and do not use scabbed potatoes for replanting. Clean growing conditions, consistent watering, and well-prepared soil all contribute to a healthier, more productive potato crop.

Certified Seed Potato Nadine 1 KG Pack

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