Potato King Edward - Trenton Cottage
Potato King Edward - Trenton Cottage
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Certified Seed Potato King Edward 1 KG Pack

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Certified Seed Potato ‘King Edward’ (Solanum tuberosum) is a heritage classic, loved for over a century for its floury texture, creamy white flesh, and distinctive pink-blushed skin. Producing medium to large, round to oval tubers, it’s the perfect choice for perfectly fluffy mash, crisp golden roasts, and beautifully dry-baked potatoes. Maturing in 90 to 150 days, it’s easy to grow and highly rewarding, thriving in vegetable beds, raised beds, and even containers, making it ideal for gardens, balconies, and sunny patios. ‘King Edward’ thrives when planted during the cooler months across a wide range of climates. A fantastic crop for beginners and experienced growers alike, potatoes are also a great way to get children involved in gardening. With excellent storage potential, rich flavour, and unbeatable versatility, ‘King Edward’ is a must-have for any grower looking for delicious, homegrown potatoes with a history of reliability.

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Description

Important Shipping Information
Seed potatoes cannot be sent to WA, TAS, or NT due to quarantine restrictions.

Potato ‘King Edward’ (Solanum tuberosum) 
Potato ‘King Edward’ is a classic indeterminate maincrop variety, first introduced in the early 1900s and loved for its floury texture, pink-blushed skin and top cooking quality. It produces medium to large tubers that develop gradually along the stem, making it well-suited to mounding during growth to boost yields and protect tubers from sunlight. Suitable for garden beds, raised beds or large containers, it matures in 90–150 days. With generous yields, dependable performance and excellent storage, it’s a versatile kitchen staple perfect for mashing, roasting and baking.

Best Planting Times by Climate
Potatoes are suitable for a wide range of climates and perform reliably when planted during the cooler months. Typically planted from autumn through to spring, they benefit from growing in cooler soil before summer heat arrives. For optimal growth, plant within the recommended windows below. Alternative planting times are possible but may result in smaller yields.
• Cool Climates – August to February | Alternative: July, March–May
• Temperate Climates – August to October | Alternative: April–July, January
• Arid Climates – August to December | Alternative: May–July
• Subtropical Climates – August to October | Alternative: March–May
• Tropical Climates – March-May | Alternative: August–October

Frost Considerations
Potatoes prefer cool to warm conditions but are sensitive to frost. In areas with light frost, you can plant 2–3 weeks before the last expected frost, as sprouting takes time. In heavy frost zones, wait until conditions warm or pre-sprout seed potatoes indoors to get a head start. For early planting, use frost cloths, mulch, or grow bags in sheltered areas.

Chitting and Cutting Seed Potatoes
Chitting is the process of encouraging seed potatoes to sprout before planting. This helps them develop stronger shoots and begin growing faster once they are in the soil. While not essential, chitting is especially helpful for gardeners in frost-prone areas, as it gives the potatoes a head start.

Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces to increase the number of plants, but smaller potatoes should be planted whole to maintain strong yields. Always let cut pieces dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to form a protective layer that lowers the risk of rot and disease. After chitting, some sprouts can be removed to focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger potatoes, or left intact for a higher yield of smaller tubers. If cutting out sprouts, let the cut surface dry for 24 hours before planting to prevent rot.

How to Chit and Prepare:
• Place seed potatoes with the eyes facing up in a cool, dry, bright spot for 4–6 weeks until short, sturdy sprouts develop.
• Cut tubers after chitting, ensuring each piece has 1–2 eyes. Leave small potatoes whole.
• Once sprouts are about 1–2 cm long, either leave them intact or remove a few.
• Plant the seed potatoes once soil conditions are suitable.

Soil Requirements
Plant in loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil. Add compost or organic matter to improve fertility and moisture retention. You can mix a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone or a vegetable-specific blend, into the soil before planting, or apply it on top with the compost. For containers, use a high-quality potting mix with good drainage, incorporating compost in a 1:1 ratio and adding fertiliser to the mix or on top. Ensure containers are at least 40 cm deep.

Location: Plant in full sun, ensuring they receive 6–8 hours of sunlight daily. In very hot climates or during periods of extreme heat, provide the plant with some afternoon shade to protect it from heat stress and sunburn.

How to Plant Potatoes
• Trenches: Dig trenches 25–30 cm deep and 20 cm wide, spaced at least 50 cm apart. Add 10 cm of compost and scatter a complete fertiliser along the trench. Plant seed potatoes 15–20 cm deep and 45 cm apart with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil and water well. Gradually mound soil around the stems as plants grow, ensuring tubers stay well covered to protect them from direct sunlight and prevent greening.

• Raised Beds: Prepare beds with well-mixed soil and compost. Dig holes or shallow trenches 15–20 cm deep, spaced 45 cm apart. Add a small handful of a complete fertiliser at the base of each hole. Plant seed potatoes 15–20 cm deep with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil and water thoroughly.

• Containers/Grow Bags: Use containers at least 40 cm deep. Add 10 cm of potting mix blended with compost. Plant 2–3 seed potatoes per container, spaced about 15 cm apart, with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil. As plants grow, continue topping up with 5–10 cm of soil or compost mix until the container or grow bag is full. Water well and fertilise between layers as plants grow.

Fertilising 
Use a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone or a vegetable-specific blend. In containers and grow bags, sprinkle fertiliser between layers as plants grow to support tuber development. In garden beds and trenches, a single application at planting is usually sufficient, though side dressing later in the season can support continued growth if needed.

Mounding & Mulching
When shoots reach 10–15 cm high, begin gradually mounding soil or mulch around the stems, exposing only the top leaves. Repeat as growth continues until 25–30 cm of coverage is achieved. In containers and grow bags, continue topping up with mix as plants grow, finishing with mulch once filled. This protects developing tubers, retains moisture, and prevents greening.

Watering
Keep soil consistently moist, especially in hot, dry climates or when using pots, which dry out faster. Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest to allow skins to toughen for storage.

Harvesting
‘King Edward’ takes 90–150 days to mature. For the main crop, stop watering when the foliage begins to yellow and die back. Leave the tubers in the soil for a further 2–3 weeks to allow the skins to firm. By this time, the foliage should have completely died back, and the crop will be ready to harvest. Lift carefully and dry in a cool, shaded, well-ventilated spot for a couple of hours, then store in mesh bags or breathable containers in a dark, ventilated area. This simple curing process helps maximise shelf life and keeps your potatoes in good condition for longer. When properly stored, they can last for several months.

Bandicooting for Early Potatoes
Potatoes can be harvested as fresh new potatoes with thin skins and tender flesh before they reach full maturity. This process is called bandicooting. To harvest, gently dig around the base of the plant and remove a few young tubers. This can be done about two to three weeks after flowering, or from eight weeks onwards if the plants do not flower. These new potatoes are best eaten soon after harvesting, as they do not store well. Harvesting at this stage may slightly reduce the overall yield.

Pests & Diseases
• Common pests: Aphids, slugs, and wireworms.
• Diseases: Susceptible to blight and rot from poor drainage.
• Prevention: Rotate crops every 3–4 years, ensure good drainage, water at the base and remove infected plants promptly.

Green Potatoes
Exposed tubers can turn green due to exposure to sunlight and develop solanine, a naturally occurring toxin. To prevent this, ensure tubers are fully covered with soil or mulch during growth.

Caution: Do not eat green potatoes – they are toxic.

Supplied as dormant tubers.

Additional information

Price Code

C – Orange Pack
Botanical Name

Solanum tuberosum
Net Weight

1 kg
Harvesting Time

This variety typically matures in 90–150 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. They are ready to harvest when the foliage has fully died back.
Planting Time

Plant from autumn through to spring. Potatoes thrive during the cooler months, when soil temperatures are cool to warm. In some cooler regions, planting may extend into late summer where conditions remain favourable, which is why longer windows are sometimes listed. Alternative planting times are possible in many areas, though they may result in smaller harvests or reduced yields.
Cool Climates – Best planted: August to February. Alternative planting: July, March to May.
Temperate Climates – Best planted: August to October. Alternative planting: April to July and January.
Arid Climates – Best planted: August to December. Alternative planting: May to July.
Subtropical Climates – Best planted: August to October. Alternative planting: March to May.
Tropical Climates – Best planted: March to May. Alternative planting: August to October.
Planting Depth

Plant 15-20 cm deep in trenches, vegetable beds, and raised beds.
For pots and grow bags, plant into one-third of a combination of potting mix and compost, which is roughly 10 cm deep from the bottom of the pot.
Planting Width

For trenches, vegetable beds, or raised beds: Plant tubers 45 cm apart, with at least 50 cm between rows.
In pots or grow bags, plant 15 cm apart, ensuring space between them. Usually two to three potatoes per pot or grow bag.
Chitting (Pre-Sprouting)

Chitting encourages seed potatoes to sprout before planting, promoting stronger shoots, faster growth, and potentially higher yields. While not essential, it can be beneficial, especially for gardeners in frost-prone areas by giving potatoes a head start before planting. This is particularly useful for maincrop varieties, which take longer to mature.

Potatoes will sprout naturally in cool to warm soil, but chitting speeds up the process, making it ideal for early harvests or cooler climates. Many gardeners skip chitting in warmer regions or when planting later in the season, as warm soil encourages rapid sprouting. In these climates, planting during the coolest months helps avoid excessive heat. Excessive warmth can speed up sprouting and growth, but often at the expense of yield and plant strength. For the best results, plant when the soil is cool but beginning to warm.

How to Chit Seed Potatoes:
Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the eyes facing up in a cool, bright, frost-free spot such as a windowsill or greenhouse. Avoid direct sunlight or darkness, as weak, leggy shoots can break easily. In four to six weeks, short, sturdy green or purple shoots will form.
Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces after chitting. Each piece should be at least 4 to 6 cm long and contain one to two eyes. If cutting, allow the pieces to air dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to prevent rot.

After your seed potatoes have sprouted and the shoots reach approximately 1–2 cm, some sprouts can be left intact or a few removed by rubbing them off. If removing sprouts by cutting them out, allow the cut area to dry for at least 24 hours before planting to help prevent rot. Removing some sprouts helps the plant focus its energy, producing fewer but larger potatoes. Conversely, leaving more sprouts can increase overall yield by producing more, but smaller, potatoes.

Preparing Chitted Potatoes for Planting:
Once your seed potatoes have developed, handle them carefully to avoid breaking the sprouts when planting.
Soil

Plant in loose, well-draining, nutrient-rich soil with a pH range of 5.0 to 6.5. Add compost or organic matter to improve fertility and moisture retention. Potatoes thrive in slightly acidic soil, so ensure the soil is loose and rich in organic material for optimal growth. Avoid heavy clay soils that retain too much water and cause rot. Depending on your soil type and climate, you may need to adjust the mix further by adding sand for heavy clay soils, extra organic matter for sandy soils, or mulch to help retain moisture in dry regions. In scab-prone areas, maintaining a soil pH of 5.0 to 5.2 helps reduce infection risk but may result in smaller yields.
For containers, use a high-quality potting mix enriched with compost, ensuring good drainage to prevent waterlogging. Choose a deep container at least 40 cm deep to allow proper root and tuber development.
How to Plant

Location: Choose a sunny spot for planting, whether in the garden, raised beds, pots, or grow bags. Potatoes need at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily for healthy growth and high yields. In very hot climates, some afternoon shade can help prevent stress and sunburn on the plants.

Pots and Grow Bags: Fill one-third of the pot or grow bag with a high-quality potting mix and compost. Place seed potatoes on the mix, eyes facing up, spaced 15 cm apart. Cover with 5–10 cm of compost. When shoots reach 10 cm, add another 5–10 cm of compost, leaving half the leaves exposed. Repeat until the container is full, then top with mulch. Place the pot or grow bag in a sunny position and water regularly.

Trenches: Dig trenches 25–30 cm deep, placing the removed soil to the sides to make hilling easier as plants grow. Add 10 cm of compost, mixing fertiliser into it before placing in the trench, or sprinkle fertiliser over the compost after placing. Space seed potatoes 45 cm apart and leave at least 50 cm between rows. Backfill the trench with the soil and compost mixture, then water well. As plants grow, gradually draw soil from the sides to hill them up, aiming to build 25–30 cm of coverage for tuber protection and moisture retention. Mulch if needed.

Vegetable Beds and Raised Beds: Use either the trench method or dig individual holes. Prepare beds with well-draining soil and compost before planting.
For the trench method, dig trenches 25–30 cm deep, sprinkle a complete fertiliser, and place tubers 45 cm apart. Cover lightly with soil and gradually fill the trench as plants grow. Alternatively, dig holes 15–20 cm deep and 45 cm apart, sprinkle fertiliser into each hole, place tubers inside, backfill with soil mixture, and water thoroughly.

As plants grow, gently hoe soil and compost around the stems to create a deeper column for tuber development. Continue hilling until 25–30 cm coverage is achieved or until further hilling is not possible or the plants shade themselves. This protects tubers, retains moisture, and encourages higher yields.

In subtropical and tropical climates, planting in raised beds or mounded rows improves drainage and helps prevent waterlogging during the wet season.

Please note: Maincrop potatoes grow best in raised beds and vegetable beds, where they have space to develop larger tubers and higher yields. If grown in grow bags or small containers, the harvested potatoes may be smaller than expected. For indeterminate potatoes, we recommend planting only two to three seed potatoes per grow bag to allow sufficient room for growth.
Watering

Keep moist without overwatering, especially in hot, dry climates or when planted in pots, as they dry out quicker. Moving black pots to areas with dappled shade is fine, but ensure they receive 6-8 hours of sunlight daily. Stop watering two weeks before harvesting to allow skins to thicken and toughen, helping them store longer.
Fertilise

Use a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone, or a fertiliser specialised for vegetables. Mixing fertiliser into the compost at planting helps improve yields. In containers or grow bags, additional fertiliser can be sprinkled between layers as plants grow to support tuber development. For potatoes grown in the ground or raised beds, layering fertiliser isn’t necessary, but side dressing later in the season can help maintain healthy growth if needed.
Harvest

King Edward is a maincrop variety that typically matures in 90 to 150 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. In warmer climates, it may reach maturity sooner, while cooler regions may take longer.

For an early harvest, King Edward can be collected as new or chat potatoes around two to three weeks after flowering. These small, tender tubers have thin skins and are best eaten fresh, as they do not store well. This method, known as bandicooting, involves gently feeling around the base of the plant and removing a few developing tubers while leaving the rest to continue growing. If your potatoes don’t flower, begin checking from around eight weeks onward by carefully digging around the base to harvest young tubers. Early harvesting may slightly reduce the final yield.

For the main harvest, the clearest sign of maturity is when the foliage begins to yellow and die back. Once this occurs, stop watering and leave the tubers in the soil for another two to three weeks to allow the skins to firm. When the foliage has fully died back, the crop is ready to lift. To check readiness, gently dig up one tuber and inspect the skin. Mature potatoes will have firm skins that do not rub off easily.

To harvest, carefully dig around the plant in garden beds, trenches, or raised beds to lift the tubers without causing damage. In pots or grow bags, tip the container on its side or open the access panel for easy removal.

Drying and Storage
After harvesting, allow potatoes to dry to remove excess surface moisture and reduce the risk of rot. This also helps toughen the skins for longer storage. In mild climates, lay them loosely spread on top of the soil for a couple of hours out of direct sunlight. In hotter regions, move them to a cool, shaded, well-ventilated area and spread them in a single layer.

Gently brush off excess soil, but avoid washing, as moisture shortens their storage life. Store only mature potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space such as a pantry, cupboard, garage, or shed with stable temperatures. Use mesh bags or breathable containers to allow airflow and prevent moisture build-up.

King Edward stores well for several months under the right conditions. Check stored potatoes regularly and remove any that show signs of sprouting, softening, or rot. Storage performance may vary depending on your climate and how the crop was grown and cured.
Pests and Diseases

Potato 'King Edward' has good resistance to common scab but may still be affected by it, as well as other pests and diseases such as aphids, slugs, wireworms, blight, and rot. To reduce the risk: Rotate crops every 3 to 4 years, plant only Certified Seed Potatoes, and maintain well-drained, nutrient-rich soil. Avoid planting in areas that were recently pasture or lawn, as this can increase the risk of wireworms, especially in wetter soils. Water at the base of plants to minimise fungal issues, and avoid both overwatering and letting the soil dry out completely.

Solutions

Aphids: Use insecticidal soap or neem oil; encourage beneficial insects like ladybirds.

Slugs: Hand-pick at night, use beer traps, or apply iron phosphate pellets as a pet-safe deterrent.

Wireworms: Set bait traps using cut potatoes to monitor activity and lift them regularly; solarise soil if infestation persists.

Blight: Remove affected foliage promptly, avoid overhead watering, and ensure adequate airflow between plants.

Rot: Improve drainage and avoid planting in waterlogged areas.

Scab: Though King Edward is less susceptible, scab can still occur. If your site is prone to scab or shows signs of alkalinity, lower soil pH to around 5.0 to 5.2 using elemental sulphur or acid-producing fertilisers such as ammonium sulphate. This helps suppress scab-causing bacteria. Avoid adding lime, wood ash, or fresh manure before planting, as these can raise pH. In heavier soils, improve drainage or grow in raised beds to help prevent water retention. If lowering pH is necessary, prepare the soil several weeks to a few months before planting, as amendments take time to take effect.

If scab appears, there are two common types: common scab, which causes rough, corky patches, and powdery scab, which produces raised pustules and may lead to rot in storage. Though mostly cosmetic, affected potatoes should be peeled before use and eaten sooner rather than stored. Discard any soft or damaged tubers, and do not use scabbed potatoes for replanting.

Clean growing conditions, appropriate watering, and proper soil preparation all contribute to a healthier, more productive crop of King Edward potatoes.
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