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Raspberry Heritage – Loose

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Start your berry patch off right with this bundle of 25 loose, dormant, bare-rooted Raspberry ‘Heritage’ (Rubus idaeus × Rubus hybrids) canes, perfect for filling out hedgerows, orchard-style rows, or even sharing with family and friends. This cost-effective pack delivers abundant harvests of sweet, firm, deep red berries on first-year canes from late summer through autumn, with picking lasting up to 12 weeks thanks to its early autumn-bearing habit. Renowned for strong disease resistance and a low-chill requirement, ‘Heritage’ thrives in a wide range of climates, including warmer regions where traditional raspberries may struggle. Easy to prune and manage, it’s ideal for both beginners and experienced gardeners wanting a reliable, low-maintenance crop. Plant once and enjoy years of delicious, homegrown berries.

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Description

Raspberry ‘Heritage’ (Rubus idaeus × Rubus hybrids)
Raspberry ‘Heritage’ is a vigorous, disease-resistant, autumn-bearing variety in the Rosaceae family. This loose bundle contains 25 dormant, bare-rooted canes, making it a cost-effective choice for larger spaces, hedgerows, or productive orchards.

‘Heritage’ is valued for reliability and ease of care, producing large, firm red berries on first-year canes from late summer through autumn, typically February to April in many regions. Berries are sweet and excellent for fresh eating, preserving, or freezing. With strong, upright canes and broad adaptability, it performs well in cool, temperate, arid, and mild-winter climates.

Growth Habit
A clump-forming, deciduous raspberry with strong, upright canes reaching 1–1.5 metres tall and around 50 cm wide. As a primocane type, it fruits on first-year canes, which are pruned out after harvest. New canes emerge from the crown, forming the main fruiting row. Suckers may also grow from roots further out; these can be removed to keep beds tidy or allowed to establish new plants if expanding. Canes benefit from support as they grow.

Climate Suitability
‘Heritage’ suits a wide range of climates. Frost-hardy and heat-tolerant, it thrives in long summers and mild autumns. Afternoon shade reduces stress in hotter regions, and its low chill requirement makes it suitable for warmer areas.

Position
Choose a permanent spot in full sun to part shade with protection from strong winds. Good airflow helps minimise disease.

Soil
Prefers well-drained, moderately acidic to near-neutral soil with a pH of 5.5–6.5, though they can tolerate soils up to 6.8. Enrich soil before planting with compost or aged manure. Improve clay or sandy soils with organic matter. Raised beds help in damp or poorly drained sites.

Training
Use a trellis, wire, or fence system to support canes, reduce breakage, and improve airflow. Tie canes loosely to supports to avoid damage and allow flexibility. This also makes harvesting easier and keeps fruit clean.

Planting Loose Canes
Plant dormant canes in winter to early spring. Soak the entire bundle in clean water for up to an hour before planting.

Separate and plant them 40–60 cm apart, with rows about 1.5 metres apart. Dig holes or a trench deep and wide enough for roots to spread, positioning roots around 10 cm below the soil surface. Set the crown just a few centimetres below the surface to ensure proper establishment. Backfill gently and firm the soil. Water thoroughly after planting and apply mulch around the base, keeping it clear of the crown.

Growing in Pots
‘Heritage’ grows well in large pots at least 40 cm deep and wide, filled with premium potting mix enriched with compost. Plant one cane per pot to avoid overcrowding. Position in full sun to part shade with protection from harsh afternoon sun.

Fertilising & Mulching
Healthy raspberry canes need well-prepared soil and seasonal care. Apply a complete fertiliser or well-composted organic matter in late winter to early spring before new growth begins to deliver nutrients when they’re most needed. Avoid overfeeding, which can lead to excessive leafy growth.

Mulch can be applied any time of year to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and protect roots from temperature extremes. It is commonly used in winter in colder regions to insulate roots, in early spring to suppress weeds and keep roots cool as temperatures rise, and in autumn in warmer climates to protect plants as they head into winter. Be sure to reapply mulch each spring to maintain coverage. Keep mulch a few centimetres from the bases of the canes to prevent rot, and top it up as needed.

Watering
Water regularly during the growing season, especially in dry or windy weather and while fruiting. Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged. Potted plants may need more frequent watering. Reduce watering in winter when dormant.

Harvest
Harvest begins in late summer and can last up to 12 weeks. Pick berries when fully coloured, plump, and easily detached. Check fruit every few days and harvest promptly to maintain quality and reduce spoilage. Handle carefully to avoid bruising. Store in shallow containers and refrigerate soon after picking.

Pruning
‘Heritage’ fruits on first-year canes, called primocanes. These grow and fruit within the same season. Once the plant becomes dormant, prune all canes to ground level in mid to late winter to encourage strong new growth in spring.

In warmer climates, tip-pruning new canes in spring, at around 60 cm, can help delay fruiting slightly and encourage lateral branching, allowing the plant to avoid setting fruit during the hottest part of late summer. This delay is usually only by a couple of weeks and still fits comfortably within the typical February to April fruiting window. In cooler climates, leaving the cane tips intact allows fruit to appear earlier near the top of the cane, giving it more time to ripen before the weather cools. Tip-pruning isn’t required. Plants will still produce well without it, making pruning simple and flexible.

Suckers & Runners
‘Heritage’ produces suckers from its root system. Remove unwanted shoots to keep the planting area manageable and maintain airflow. Strong suckers may be left to establish new plants. Maintain a wide growing strip for access.

Pests and Diseases
‘Heritage’ is known for strong disease resistance and is low-maintenance. While it’s less prone to common fungal problems such as grey mould, cane blight, or rust, maintaining good airflow, avoiding overhead watering, and removing any damaged material still helps support healthy growth. Aphids and scale can be controlled with insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Fruit fly and birds may target ripening berries. Use netting to protect your crop. Check plants regularly.

Safety
The fruit is edible, but other parts of the plant are not suitable for consumption. Although the thorns are not especially sharp, it’s best to wear gloves when pruning and supervise children and pets around plants.

Supplied as a bare-rooted cane.

Additional information

Botanical Name

Rubus idaeus x Rubus hybrids
Quantity in Pack

25 Canes
Harvest Time

Fruiting typically begins in late summer, from February, and continues through to April, with a harvest period lasting up to 12 weeks. Timing may vary depending on climate and growing conditions.
Planting Time

Plant from winter to early spring, ensuring the soil is workable and not frozen or waterlogged. Protect young plants from frost by using frost cloth or starting them in pots, so they can be moved into the ground when conditions are suitable.
Planting Depth

Plant so that the roots sit approximately 10 cm deep, with the crown positioned just below the soil surface, no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deeply, as this can cause rot, or too shallow, which may expose the roots. Ensure the hole is wide and deep enough to comfortably spread the roots.

The crown is the point where the roots meet the base of the canes. This should sit just below the soil surface after planting.
Planting Width

Plant 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 metres between each row.
Soil

Raspberries grow best in rich, well-drained soil with a moderately acidic to near neutral pH between 5.5 and 6.5, though they can tolerate soils up to 6.8. To prevent root rot, avoid waterlogged conditions by ensuring the planting area drains well. Before planting, improve the soil by incorporating well-rotted compost or aged manure. This enhances fertility, structure, and moisture retention, all of which support strong cane growth and healthy root development.

In heavy clay soils, work in plenty of organic matter to improve drainage. For sandy soils, add compost, aged manure, or coco peat to help retain moisture and nutrients. Applying mulch on top can also reduce evaporation and further improve water retention.

Well-prepared soil encourages vigorous growth and supports productive harvests year after year.

For potted raspberries, use a high-quality, free-draining potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter to provide a balanced growing environment and maintain consistent growth.
How to Plant

Choose a sunny position with at least 6 hours of direct sun daily, preferably with some afternoon shade to help reduce heat stress. Avoid planting in too much shade, as this can reduce fruiting and lead to weak, leggy growth. Good airflow is important to help prevent disease.

If planting in a windy location, consider installing a windbreak to shield plants from strong, damaging gusts. This protects the canes and supports healthy growth.

Before planting, you can soak the roots in clean water for up to an hour to rehydrate them, especially if they appear dry or shrivelled. This step is optional but can support quicker establishment. Avoid leaving roots exposed to the air for extended periods, as this can lead to drying and poor performance. Prepare the site by enriching the soil with well-rotted compost or manure.

Dig a hole large enough to allow the roots to spread out comfortably. Position the plant so the roots sit about 10 cm deep, with the crown just below the soil surface, no more than a few centimetres. Avoid planting too deeply, as this can cause rot. In poorly drained areas, create a small mound at the base of the planting hole and spread the roots over it, or plant in raised beds to improve drainage.

Space canes 40–60 cm apart within rows, with 1.5 metres between rows for airflow and maintenance. Backfill with soil or a soil-compost mix, firm gently around the roots to remove air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the soil.

Apply mulch around the base to retain moisture and suppress weeds, keeping it a few centimetres clear of the crown. You can use straw, sugarcane mulch, or well-rotted compost or manure as a mulch layer. If using compost or manure alone, apply generously and reapply as needed to maintain coverage.

For pots, use one cane per container at least 40 cm deep and wide, filled with premium potting mix enriched with compost or organic matter. After planting, apply a small amount of complete fertiliser and water well. Ensure good drainage and follow the same planting principles.
Optional: Our canes are carefully prepared and usually arrive at a suitable planting height, often around 15–20 cm, though some may be shorter. They are ready to plant as they are and do not need trimming. If preferred, you can trim to around 15 cm for ease or uniformity, but this is optional and will not affect performance.
Watering

Raspberries require consistent moisture throughout the growing season to support healthy cane growth, flowering, and fruiting. Water deeply and regularly, especially during dry, windy, or hot weather. Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged. Overly wet soil can lead to root rot, particularly in heavy or poorly drained areas. If drainage is an issue, improve the soil with compost or organic matter, or consider planting on a slight mound to help water drain away from the roots. Raised beds or containers with drainage holes are also ideal for preventing water from collecting around the crown.

During flowering and fruit development, avoid allowing the soil to dry out, as irregular watering can cause poor fruit set, small berries, or fruit drop. In sandy soils or warmer climates, more frequent watering may be necessary. Early morning is the best time to water, as it allows moisture to reach the roots before the heat of the day and reduces the risk of fungal disease.

Potted raspberries require closer attention, as containers dry out much faster than garden beds. Check regularly, especially in hot weather, and water when the top few centimetres of soil feel dry. Always ensure pots have good drainage.

Mulching is an excellent companion to watering. A generous layer of mulch helps retain soil moisture, reduce evaporation, and protect roots from heat stress. It also lowers the frequency of watering, particularly in warm or exposed locations. Apply mulch in late winter to early spring after pruning and fertilising, and top up as needed throughout the growing season. Keep mulch a few centimetres away from cane bases to prevent stem rot.

As the plant enters dormancy in winter, watering should be reduced or stopped entirely. In areas with natural winter rainfall or where temperatures drop and frost is common, additional watering is not needed. In warmer or drier climates, particularly arid regions, occasional deep watering may be beneficial during extended dry spells, but only when the soil is dry several centimetres down and conditions are mild. Avoid watering during freezing conditions or periods of heavy rain, and ensure good drainage throughout the cooler months.
Fertilise

Raspberries benefit from a balanced feeding program to support strong cane growth, healthy foliage, and productive harvests.

Apply a complete fertiliser in late winter to early spring, just as new growth begins. This supplies essential nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, to promote vigorous shoot development and prepare the plant for the season ahead. Even if compost or manure has been added, a complete fertiliser is often recommended to ensure plants receive an immediate and balanced supply of nutrients.

From the first year onward, you can use a slow-release fertiliser labelled as “fruit and citrus” or “berries and vines” to provide long-lasting nutrition throughout the growing season. For a quick boost, apply a liquid fertiliser such as one labelled “all-purpose” or “vegetable and herb” every 4–6 weeks during spring and early summer. Organic fertilisers like aged manure, blood and bone, or pelletised chicken manure labelled as “certified organic” or “suitable for fruiting plants” can be added before planting, in spring, or after fruiting to improve soil health and support long-term fertility.

If growth appears weak, leaves look pale or yellow, or fruiting is poor, a second light feed in early summer can help restore vigour. Avoid over-fertilising, particularly with high-nitrogen products, as this can lead to lush, leafy growth at the expense of fruit and may increase susceptibility to disease. Signs of over-fertilising include excessive soft foliage, poor fruit set, dark green leaves with scorched tips, or floppy canes that are more prone to pests and weather damage.

Stop fertilising once the fruiting season ends, as the plant prepares for dormancy and no longer requires additional nutrients. In most climates, wait until late winter to early spring to apply mulch, after pruning and fertilising, to help suppress weeds, retain moisture, and protect the root zone as new growth begins. In arid climates, mulch may be maintained year-round and topped up as needed to reduce water loss and insulate the soil.

For potted raspberries, mix a slow-release fertiliser into the potting mix at planting. Then, apply a diluted liquid feed every 4–6 weeks during the growing season. Stop feeding in late summer to allow the plant to slow down naturally before dormancy. Potted plants often need more frequent feeding due to limited soil volume and faster nutrient depletion.
Pruning

‘Heritage’ fruits on first-year canes that grow and fruit in the same season. As the plant becomes dormant over winter, all fruiting canes should be cut back to ground level. Don’t be alarmed by the harshness of pruning. Removing all the old canes may seem drastic, but it’s exactly what ‘Heritage’ needs. New canes will emerge in early spring and go on to produce fruit within the same season.
In most regions, pruning is best done in mid to late winter, once the leaves have dropped and the plant is clearly dormant. This encourages strong new growth in early spring and supports healthy fruiting later in the year.

In warmer climates, gardeners may choose to tip-prune new canes in spring when they reach around 60 cm and are still actively growing. This delays fruiting slightly, typically by a couple of weeks, which can help avoid flowering and setting fruit during the hottest part of late summer. It also encourages lateral shoots lower on the cane, where fruit may be better protected from heat. Despite the slight delay, fruit will still develop well within the typical February to April fruiting window.

In cooler climates, leaving the cane tips intact allows fruiting to begin earlier near the top of the cane, where it receives maximum sunlight and has a better chance to ripen before temperatures drop.

Tip-pruning is not required for a productive crop. Most fruit naturally forms toward the top of each cane, even without it, and plants will still produce a generous harvest whether or not tip-pruning is performed.
Harvest

Raspberries are best harvested when they are fully ripe. The fruit should be evenly coloured, plump, and come away easily from the plant without resistance. If a berry doesn’t detach with a gentle pull, it likely needs more time to ripen.

Check plants every two to three days during the harvest period, as ripe fruit can spoil quickly if left too long on the cane. Harvest during the cooler part of the day, preferably in the morning, and avoid picking in wet conditions to reduce the risk of fungal issues such as grey mould.

Raspberries are soft and highly perishable, so handle them gently and use shallow containers to avoid bruising. Store fruit in the fridge as soon as possible, and consume within a few days for best quality. For longer storage, raspberries can be frozen by placing them in a single layer on a tray until firm, then transferring them to sealed containers or bags.
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