French Echalion - Trenton Cottage
French Echalion - Trenton Cottage
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French Echalion

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French Echalion (Allium cepa var. aggregatum) is an elegant, elongated type of shallot, bred from a cross between traditional shallots and onions and often called banana shallots for their distinctive curved shape. With rose-bronze skin and ivory flesh lightly streaked with purple, they offer a sweet, mellow flavour and are easier to peel than traditional round-shaped shallots, perfect for roasting, braising, sauces, salads, and dressings. Easy to grow in full sun and well-drained soil, they thrive in cool, temperate, arid, and semi-arid climates with mild to cold winters. Naturally rich in antioxidants and compounds that support heart health and immunity, French Echalions offer a flavourful and healthful boost, making them an exceptional addition to a variety of culinary dishes.

SKU: TCFREECH005 Category: Tags: , ,

Description

Quarantine Note: Due to quarantine restrictions, French Echalion cannot be sent to Western Australia or Tasmania.

French Echalion
French Echalion (Allium cepa var. aggregatum) is a type of shallot bred from a cross between traditional shallots and onions, also known as banana shallots due to their long, curved shape. This elongated, tubular variety features rose-bronze skin and ivory flesh tinged with purple. Known for their mild, sweet flavour, they’re ideal for sauces, salads, dressings, roasting, and braising. Suitable for garden beds and large containers, they are supplied as loose, individual dormant bulbs ready for planting.

Growth Cycle
Shallots grow from individual bulbs called sets. Each should be whole with an intact base. Some may appear joined but count as one; split bulbs can still grow, provided the base is secure. Once planted, they begin to grow as the soil warms, developing roots, followed by shoots, and eventually dividing underground into clusters of 6–12 bulbs. Strong leafy growth by late spring is a good sign that plants are developing well and are more likely to produce a quality harvest. Plants mature in summer when the leaves turn yellow and flop. You can harvest slightly earlier for fresh use, though smaller bulbs won’t store as well.

Planting Time and Climate
Best suited to cool, temperate, arid, and semi-arid climates with mild to cold winters and steady spring conditions.

Plant bulbs from April to July to allow roots to establish before the onset of summer heat. In colder, wetter regions and areas prone to hard frosts, delay planting until spring to reduce fungal risks, minimise bolting, and prevent bulb rot caused by saturated soils.

Bolting occurs when plants experience temperature stress, such as cold exposure or rapid temperature fluctuations, so careful timing is essential for healthy, steady early growth. Choose a sunny location with good airflow and well-drained soil to promote strong development. Avoid shaded or damp areas, as these conditions increase disease risk.

Site and Soil Preparation
Plant in rich, well-drained soil with a pH of around 6.5. Improve structure with compost; use well-rotted manure sparingly. Apply lime months ahead if the soil is acidic. Add blood and bone or a low-nitrogen fertiliser in poor soils. Raised beds are ideal for heavy or damp areas.

How to Plant
Plant bulbs base-down, tip just visible above soil, 5–10 cm deep depending on bulb size. Space 20 cm apart, 30–60 cm between rows. Mulching is optional: apply after shoots emerge in cool or wet regions, or after planting in warmer or drier areas. Keep mulch clear of bulb tips.

Growing in Pots
Use wide tubs at least 30 cm deep. Plant bulbs 5–10 cm deep, 20 cm apart, with tips exposed. Smaller tubs limit growth and bulb numbers. Use a well-draining, compost-enriched mix. Start bulbs early in trays or pots in sheltered spots and transplant when conditions improve.

Watering
Water lightly if the soil is dry after planting. Keep soil evenly moist during growth, watering when the surface dries. Avoid soggy soil. Reduce watering as bulbs form; stop once tops yellow and flop.

Fertilising
Use low-nitrogen fertiliser like blood and bone at planting. Feed lightly with nitrogen during active growth. Stop once bulbs begin swelling.

Mulching
Apply a light mulch once shoots appear and the soil warms. Use dry straw, sugarcane, compost, or grass clippings. In warm or dry areas, mulch can be applied after planting. Keep mulch away from bulb tips.

General Care
Weed regularly to reduce competition. Hand-weed to avoid root disturbance. Ensure good airflow. If bolting occurs, remove flower stalks promptly to encourage better bulb development. Bolting can’t be reversed and is usually triggered by cold or temperature stress. Bolting bulbs can still be eaten fresh, but won’t store or regrow well.

Harvesting and Curing
Harvest when the tops turn yellow and flop. Lift carefully and shake off soil. Cure in a dry, airy spot with indirect light for 2–3 weeks until skins are papery and necks dry. Keep foliage attached during curing to prevent rot. Once cured, trim tops and roots. Store in mesh bags or trays in a cool, dry, ventilated spot with light to avoid sprouting. Use thick-necked or bolted bulbs fresh, as they won’t store well. Properly cured bulbs store for 6–8 months. Save the healthiest bulbs for replanting next season.

Pests and Diseases
Common issues include:
• Onion thrips – cause leaf streaks; treat with neem or insecticidal soap.
• Bulb mites – prevent by using healthy sets and crop rotation.
• Rodents/birds – protect with netting.
Diseases include:
• Downy mildew – leaf spots; improve airflow and remove infected plants.
• Neck rot – storage issue; prevent with proper curing.
• White rot – soil fungus; rotate crops to manage.
• Black mould – dark spots on bulbs; prevent with dry, well-ventilated storage.
Good drainage, airflow, weed control, and curing minimise problems.

Safety
Shallots are edible and safe when cooked or eaten raw. Supervise children near bulbs to avoid choking. Large amounts may be harmful to pets; monitor them around plants. Use gloves if you have sensitive skin. Seek veterinary advice if pets show signs of illness.

Supplied as dormant bulbs.

Additional information

Price Code

C – Orange Pack
Botanical Name

Allium cepa var. aggregatum
Quantity in Pack

5 Bulbs
Harvest Time

Harvest in summer. A key sign the shallots are ready is when the tops turn yellow and begin to flop over. Harvest timing may vary slightly earlier or later depending on local climate, growing conditions, and planting time.
Planting Time

Plant from April to July, especially in warmer regions with mild winters, as this timing allows bulbs to establish strong roots before the heat of summer. Those in cooler winter areas can also plant during this period, provided soil conditions are ideal and not prone to waterlogging; raised beds can help improve drainage.

In colder, wetter climates prone to hard frosts and temperature fluctuations, it’s best to delay planting until spring, once temperatures have stabilised, cold snaps have passed, and the soil is workable. Alternatively, sets can be started early in trays or pots kept in a sheltered spot away from temperature swings, then transplanted outdoors when conditions improve. Be sure to plant before temperatures rise significantly, as bolting can also be triggered by warm, fluctuating conditions.
Planting Depth

Plant bulbs 5–10 cm deep, adjusting depth according to bulb size. All shallots should be planted so their tips remain just visible above the soil.
Planting Width

Space each bulb 20 cm apart and 30-60 cm apart in between rows.
Soil

Shallots prefer rich, organic, well-drained soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH around 6.5. Testing your soil pH before planting is essential, as shallots do not tolerate strongly acidic conditions.

To improve soil structure and fertility, add compost or well-rotted organic matter. Compost is stable, safe to use broadly, and effectively improves soil texture and drainage without significantly affecting soil pH.

Avoid using fresh manure, which is high in ammonia and salts and can burn roots and young bulbs. If well-rotted manure is your only option, use it cautiously and in moderate amounts, as excessive manure—especially in acidic soils—can lead to imbalanced nutrients, overly lush leaf growth, and poor bulb development. Thoroughly mix it into the soil, then retest soil pH. If the pH has dropped below 6.5, apply lime to raise it to the preferred range.

For heavy or poorly drained soils, using compost is recommended to improve texture and drainage safely. Combining compost with coarse materials like sand or grit can further enhance drainage. Raised beds or mounded rows are also effective in reducing waterlogging and bulb rot risks.

If you’re not using compost or well-rotted manure, apply a low-nitrogen fertiliser like blood and bone when preparing the soil to support healthy root and bulb growth. If you are using organic matter, a light fertiliser application can still be beneficial. Just remember, moderation is key—too much fertiliser may lead to excessive leafy growth, which can affect bulb size and storage quality.
How to Plant

Choose a sunny, sheltered position that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight per day. Shallots grow best in full sun with good airflow, which supports healthy development and helps reduce the risk of fungal issues such as rust or downy mildew. Avoid shaded or overly humid areas, particularly in high rainfall regions.

Once the site has been prepared, plant each bulb base-down with the pointed tip just visible above the soil surface. Set them 5–10 cm deep — deep enough to anchor, but not fully buried.
Space bulbs 20 cm apart, with 30–60 cm between rows to allow air circulation and room for the clusters to develop underground.
If the soil is dry at planting time, water in lightly to settle the soil. If the soil already holds enough moisture, watering is not necessary.
Mulch is optional. A light layer of straw or sugarcane mulch can help suppress weeds and retain moisture but should only be applied after shoots emerge. Keep mulch clear of the tips to prevent smothering.
Shallots can also be grown in deep pots or tubs (at least 30 cm deep), using quality, well-draining potting mix enriched with compost. If the garden soil is too cold or wet, sets can be started in trays or small pots and transplanted when conditions improve.
Watering

Water lightly after planting, especially if the soil is dry, to help settle the bulbs and encourage root establishment. During the active growth phase, keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged, watering when the surface feels dry to the touch. Shallots are sensitive to soggy conditions, which can lead to bulb rot and fungal diseases, so avoid overwatering.

However, in hot and dry conditions, stress can increase the risk of bolting. Consistent moisture supports strong bulb development and helps regulate soil temperature, reducing heat-related stress that may cause premature flowering.

As the season progresses and the bulbs begin to form—typically in late spring to early summer—gradually reduce watering. This helps the bulbs mature properly and improves their storage quality. Once the tops start to yellow and flop over, indicating the end of active growth, stop watering completely. Allowing the soil to dry out at this stage helps prevent rot and prolongs bulb shelf life.

Healthy, vigorous leafy growth by late spring is a good indicator of a promising harvest, as it supports strong bulb development.
Fertilise

Apply a low-nitrogen fertiliser when preparing the soil to promote strong root development and establish healthy plants without encouraging excessive leafy growth that can delay bulb formation.

When growth appears, apply nitrogen-rich fertilisers to support vigorous leaf development, which is essential for producing large, healthy bulbs.

Be careful not to over-fertilise, as too much nitrogen during bulb swelling can result in soft, lush growth that reduces bulb firmness and shortens storage life.

Stop fertilising once the bulbs begin to swell, usually in late spring to early summer, to encourage the plant to focus energy on bulb maturation.

For best results, follow manufacturer instructions and adjust feeding based on soil fertility and plant health.
Harvest

Harvest shallots when the tops yellow and flop over, signalling that the bulbs have finished growing. For best results, pull bulbs before flowering, as this can affect storage quality. Harvest on a dry day, if possible, as wet conditions can increase the risk of mould or rot during curing. If conditions are damp, lift the bulbs gently and lay them out to dry under cover with good airflow. Carefully lift the bulbs and gently shake off excess soil. While you can harvest earlier for fresh use, smaller bulbs harvested prematurely won’t store well.

Curing is an essential step after harvesting shallots that helps dry the bulbs and necks thoroughly, allowing them to develop a protective papery skin. Proper curing reduces moisture, prevents rot and mould, and improves the bulbs’ storage life and quality.

To cure, place the bulbs in a dry, airy, sheltered spot with indirect light—meaning they receive light without direct, harsh sunlight. This environment allows the bulbs to dry evenly without overheating or sun damage. Keeping the foliage attached during curing allows moisture to escape and prevents rot. Proper curing helps reduce the risk of mould or rot during storage.

Once cured, trim roots and tops, then store the bulbs loosely in mesh bags or trays in a cool, dry, well-ventilated, and light-filled place. Hanging mesh bags improves airflow and further reduces mould risk. Avoid storing shallots in plastic bags or dark, damp places, as these can trap moisture and encourage sprouting or rotting. Properly cured shallots can store for 6–8 months.

Harvested and cured shallots are versatile in the kitchen. They are prized for their mild, sweet flavour and can be used fresh or cooked in a wide variety of dishes, including roasting, sautéing, pickling, sauces, and garnishes.

Bolting occurs when shallots prematurely send up a flower stalk, diverting energy from bulb growth to seed production. It is often triggered by environmental stresses such as cold temperatures soon after planting, sudden temperature fluctuations, long daylight hours, inconsistent watering, or excess nitrogen fertiliser. Bolted bulbs are edible fresh but store poorly and are not suitable for replanting.

Keep the healthiest-looking bulbs for replanting each year, ensuring no diseased or damaged bulbs are used. To maintain soil health and reduce disease risk, it’s recommended to practice crop rotation by avoiding planting shallots or other alliums in the same spot each year.
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