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Certified Seed Potato Maris Piper 1 KG Pack *WA Only*

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Certified Seed Potato ‘Maris Piper’ (Solanum tuberosum) is one of the most famous potato varieties in the world, celebrated for its golden skin, creamy white flesh, and fluffy centre that delivers unbeatable flavour and texture. Now grown in WA, this kitchen favourite is perfect for golden roasts, fluffy hot chips, crispy wedges, and smooth, creamy mash, making it the ultimate all-rounder. Suited to Western Australian conditions, it can be grown in vegetable beds, raised beds, or large containers, rewarding you with reliable yields and top-quality tubers. Maris Piper doesn’t just impress at harvest; it is also a great storage potato, lasting for several months when cured and stored correctly, so you can enjoy its quality well beyond the season.

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Description

Important Shipping Information
This item will be dispatched from our Western Australian supplier and is only available to customers in Western Australia.

All our seed potatoes are certified under the Australian Seed Potato Certification Scheme, guaranteeing they are true to type and disease-free.

Potato ‘Maris Piper’ (Solanum tuberosum)
Potato ‘Maris Piper’ produces medium to large tubers with smooth golden skin and creamy white flesh. Famous in the UK and now grown in WA, it is prized for its fluffy centre, making it one of the best all-rounders. Perfect for roasts, fluffy hot chips, wedges, and mash, it delivers excellent flavour and texture. Well-suited to WA conditions, it benefits from regular hilling to protect developing tubers and provides reliable harvests with great versatility in the kitchen.

Planting Times and Climate
Potatoes grow well across WA when planted in the cooler months, as mild soils encourage strong growth and tuber development before summer heat sets in. They suit WA’s varied climates and perform best from autumn to spring. In frost-free areas, they can be grown year-round, but avoid planting in peak summer when the soil is too hot, as this reduces tuber set and quality. For best results, follow the recommended time frames below:
• Cool Climates – After the last frost in late winter to spring; August to October | Alternative: Can also be planted in July, or March to May in frost-free areas.
• Temperate Climates – Mid-July to October. | Alternative: April to July or January in frost-free areas.
• Arid Climates – August to October. | Alternative: May to July in frost-free areas.
• Subtropical Climates – April to August.
• Tropical Climates – April to August.

Frost Considerations
Potatoes prefer cool to warm conditions but are sensitive to frost. In areas with light frost, you can plant 2–3 weeks before the last expected frost, as sprouting takes time. In heavy frost zones, wait until conditions warm or pre-sprout seed potatoes indoors to get a head start. For early crops, use frost cloths, mulch, or grow bags in sheltered areas.

Chitting and Cutting Seed Potatoes
Chitting is the process of encouraging seed potatoes to sprout before planting. This helps them develop stronger shoots and begin growing faster once they are in the soil. While not essential, chitting is especially helpful for gardeners in frost-prone areas, as it gives the potatoes a head start.

Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces to increase the number of plants, but smaller potatoes should be planted whole to maintain strong yields. Always let cut pieces dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to form a protective layer that lowers the risk of rot and disease. After chitting, some sprouts can be removed to focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger potatoes, or left intact for a higher yield of smaller tubers. If cutting out sprouts, let the cut surface dry for 24 hours before planting to prevent rot.

How to Chit and Prepare:
• Place seed potatoes with the eyes facing up in a cool, dry, bright spot for 4–6 weeks until short, sturdy sprouts develop.
• Cut tubers after chitting, ensuring each piece has 1–2 eyes. Leave small potatoes whole.
• Once sprouts are about 1–2 cm long, either leave them intact or remove a few.
• Plant the seed potatoes once soil conditions are suitable.

Soil Requirements
Plant in loose, well-draining soil enriched with compost or organic matter. For containers, use a quality potting mix blended with compost, at least 40 cm deep with good drainage. Raised beds are especially useful for sandy or clay soils, helping improve drainage and yield. Adjust your soil as needed for best results.

Location
Plant in full sun, ensuring potatoes receive 6–8 hours of direct sunlight each day. In periods of extreme heat, some afternoon shade can help reduce stress and prevent sunburn.

How to Plant Potatoes
• Trenches: Dig trenches 25–30 cm deep and 20 cm wide, spaced at least 50 cm apart. Add 10 cm of compost and scatter a complete fertiliser along the trench. Plant seed potatoes 15–20 cm deep and 45 cm apart with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil and water well. Gradually mound soil around the stems as plants grow, ensuring tubers stay well covered to protect them from direct sunlight and prevent greening.

• Raised Beds: Prepare beds with well-mixed soil and compost. Dig holes or shallow trenches 15–20 cm deep, spaced 45 cm apart. Add a small handful of a complete fertiliser at the base of each hole. Plant seed potatoes 15–20 cm deep with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil and water thoroughly.

• Containers/Grow Bags: Use containers at least 40 cm deep. Add 10 cm of potting mix blended with compost. Plant 2–3 seed potatoes per container, spaced about 15 cm apart, with the eyes facing up. Cover with 5–10 cm of soil. As plants grow, continue topping up with 5–10 cm of soil or compost mix until the container or grow bag is full. Water well and fertilise between layers as plants grow.

Fertilising 
Incorporate a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone or a vegetable blend, into the soil at planting. Indeterminate potatoes benefit from extra feeding during their longer growing season, often added while mounding or hilling. In sandy soils, apply lighter, more frequent feeds or a mid-season top-up to maintain growth. Loam and clay soils usually only need fertilising at planting, with an extra feed if foliage appears pale. In containers, nutrients deplete quickly, so regular feeding through the season is essential. Avoid over-fertilising, especially with nitrogen, as this promotes leafy growth over tubers.

Mounding & Mulching
When shoots reach 10–15 cm, begin mounding soil or mulch around the stems, leaving only the top leaves exposed. Repeat as the plants grow until 25–30 cm of coverage is built. In containers or grow bags, top up with mix as the plants develop, then finish with a mulch layer. Indeterminate potatoes produce tubers along the stem over time, so regular mounding not only protects them from sunlight and greening but also improves moisture retention and overall yields.

Watering
Keep soil consistently moist, especially in hot, dry climates or when using pots, which dry out faster. Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest to allow skins to toughen for storage.

Harvesting
‘Maris Piper’ matures in 80–100 days. When the foliage starts to yellow, stop watering and leave the tubers in the soil for 2–3 weeks to firm their skins. Once the foliage has died back, they are ready to harvest. Lift carefully, dry in a cool, shaded, well-ventilated area for a couple of hours, then store in mesh bags or other breathable containers in a dark, ventilated place. They can be stored after harvest, but should be checked regularly, with any soft or damaged potatoes removed.

Bandicooting for Early Potatoes
Bandicooting is the process of carefully digging around the base of the plant to lift a few small tubers while leaving the rest to mature. This can usually be done two to three weeks after flowering, or from around 60 days if the plants don’t flower. These tender, thin-skinned potatoes are best eaten soon after harvest, as they don’t store well. Harvesting at this stage may slightly reduce the overall yield.

Pests & Diseases 
• Aphids: Remove by hand, use insecticidal soap, or encourage beneficial insects
• Slugs & Snails: Hand-pick, set traps, or use pet-safe bait
• Wireworms: Practise crop rotation and avoid planting in freshly sodded areas
• Rot: Improve drainage and avoid overwatering
• Powdery Scab: Rotate crops and avoid replanting potatoes in the same soil for 3–4 years

Green Potatoes
Exposed tubers can turn green due to exposure to sunlight and develop solanine, a naturally occurring toxin. To prevent this, ensure tubers are fully covered with soil or mulch during growth.

Caution: Do not eat green potatoes – they are toxic.

Supplied as dormant tubers.

Additional information

Botanical Name

Solanum tuberosum
Net Weight

1 kg
Harvesting Time

This variety typically matures in 90–130 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. They are ready to harvest when the foliage has fully died back.
Planting Time

Potatoes grow well across WA when planted during the cooler months, benefiting from cool soils that promote strong growth and tuber development before the summer heat sets in. They are suitable for WA’s range of climates and perform best when planted from autumn through to spring. In frost-free areas, they can be grown year-round; however, avoid planting when the ground is extremely hot, as this can reduce tuber formation and quality. In frost-prone areas, plant after the last expected frost in late winter to spring. Alternative planting times are also possible in many regions, though these may result in smaller yields or reduced quality due to heat and less favourable conditions. For best results, plant during the coolest months within the recommended windows below:

Cool Climates – August to October, Alternative planting: July, or March to May in frost-free areas
Temperate Climates – July to October, Alternative planting: April to July, or January in frost-free areas
Arid Climates – August to October, Alternative planting: May to July in frost-free areas
Subtropical Climates – April to August
Tropical Climates – April to August
Planting Depth

Plant 15–20 cm deep in trenches, vegetable beds, and raised beds.
For pots and grow bags, plant into one-third of a combination of potting mix and compost, which is roughly 10 cm deep from the bottom of the pot.
Planting Width

For trenches, vegetable beds, or raised beds: Plant tubers 45 cm apart, with at least 50 cm between rows.
In pots or grow bags, plant 15 cm apart, ensuring space between them. Usually two to three potatoes per pot or grow bag. If some of your seed potatoes are smaller, you may add an extra one or two, but keep in mind that allowing space between plants generally produces the best yields.
Chitting (Pre-Sprouting)

Chitting encourages seed potatoes to sprout before planting, promoting stronger shoots, faster growth, and potentially higher yields. While not essential, it can be useful in WA’s cooler southern regions where frosts may occur, as it gives potatoes a head start before planting.

Potatoes will sprout naturally in cool to warm soil, but chitting speeds up the process, making it ideal for early harvests or when planting in cooler conditions. In warmer parts of WA, many gardeners skip chitting because the soil is already warm enough to trigger sprouting. However, if soil temperatures are too high, sprouting can occur too quickly, leading to weak shoots and reduced yields. For best results across WA, plant when the soil is cool but beginning to warm.

How to Chit Seed Potatoes:
Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the eyes facing up in a cool, bright, frost-free spot such as a windowsill or greenhouse. Avoid direct sunlight or darkness, as weak, leggy shoots can break easily. In four to six weeks, short, sturdy green or purple shoots will form.
Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces after chitting. Each piece should be at least 4 to 6 cm long and contain one to two eyes. If cutting, allow the pieces to air dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to prevent rot.

After your seed potatoes have sprouted and the shoots reach approximately 1–2 cm, some sprouts can be left intact or a few removed by rubbing them off. If removing sprouts by cutting them out, allow the cut area to dry for at least 24 hours before planting to help prevent rot. Removing some sprouts helps the plant focus its energy, producing fewer but larger potatoes. Conversely, leaving more sprouts can increase overall yield by producing more, but smaller, potatoes.

Preparing Chitted Potatoes for Planting:
Once your seed potatoes have developed, handle them carefully to avoid breaking the sprouts when planting.
Soil

Potatoes prefer loose, well-draining soil enriched with compost or organic matter. In WA, soils vary widely: sandy soils drain quickly and need plenty of added compost or well-rotted manure to improve water and nutrient retention, while heavier clay soils benefit from organic matter to loosen their structure and improve drainage. Gypsum can also help many WA clays, though results vary depending on soil type, so compost is always the most reliable option. Loamy soils are generally ideal and only need a boost of compost before planting. For very sandy or heavy clay areas, planting in raised beds filled with improved soil or a compost-rich mix will provide better results.

Potatoes grow best in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.0–6.5. For most crops, aim for 5.5–6.5 for balanced growth and yield. Scab, which causes rough, scabby patches on potato skins, is more likely in dry conditions, making sandy soils particularly prone to this issue. Keeping soil evenly moist and maintaining a pH closer to 5.0–5.2 in scab-prone areas can help reduce the risk, though this may slightly reduce overall yields.

For containers, use a high-quality potting mix blended with compost, ensuring the container has good drainage to prevent waterlogging.
How to Plant

Location: Choose a sunny position for planting, whether in the garden, raised beds, pots, or grow bags. Potatoes need at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight each day to support healthy growth and high yields. In WA’s hotter regions, providing some afternoon shade can help reduce plant stress and prevent sunburn.

Pots and Grow Bags: Fill one-third of the pot or grow bag with a high-quality potting mix and compost. Place seed potatoes on the mix, eyes facing up, spaced 15 cm apart. Cover with 5–10 cm of compost. When shoots reach 10 cm, add another 5–10 cm of compost, leaving half the leaves exposed. Repeat until the container is full, then top with mulch. Place the pot or grow bag in a sunny position and water regularly.

Trenches: Dig trenches 25–30 cm deep, placing the removed soil to the sides to make hilling easier as plants grow. Add 10 cm of compost, mixing fertiliser into it before placing in the trench, or sprinkle fertiliser over the compost after placing. Space seed potatoes 45 cm apart and leave at least 50 cm between rows. Backfill the trench with the soil and compost mixture, then water well. As plants grow, gradually draw soil from the sides to hill them up, aiming to build 25–30 cm of coverage for tuber protection and moisture retention. Mulch if needed.

Vegetable Beds and Raised Beds: Use either the trench method or dig individual holes. Prepare beds with well-draining soil and compost before planting. For the trench method, dig trenches 25–30 cm deep, sprinkle a complete fertiliser, and place tubers 45 cm apart. Cover lightly with soil and gradually fill the trench as plants grow. Alternatively, dig holes 15–20 cm deep and 45 cm apart, sprinkle fertiliser into each hole, place tubers inside, backfill with soil mixture, and water thoroughly.
As plants grow, gently hoe soil and compost around the stems to create a deeper column for tuber development. Continue hilling until 25–30 cm coverage is achieved or until further hilling is not possible or the plants shade themselves. This protects tubers, retains moisture, and encourages higher yields.

In regions of Western Australia where heavier winter rains occur, planting in raised beds or mounded rows improves drainage and supports healthy growth. Potatoes generally perform best in raised beds and vegetable beds, where they have the space to develop larger tubers and higher yields. When grown in grow bags or small containers, tuber size may be smaller. For indeterminate varieties, plant only two to three seed potatoes per grow bag to allow sufficient room for root and tuber development. If some of your seed potatoes are smaller, you may add an extra one or two, but keep in mind that allowing space between plants generally produces the best yields.
Watering

Keep the soil moist without overwatering, as potatoes need steady moisture for tuber formation. This is particularly important in WA’s hot, dry regions or when growing in pots, as containers dry out more quickly. If using black pots, moving them to a spot with dappled shade is fine, but ensure plants still receive 6–8 hours of sunlight each day. Stop watering about two weeks before harvesting to allow the skins to thicken and toughen, which helps the potatoes store better.
Fertilise

In WA, fertiliser needs vary with soil type. Potatoes respond best to soil enriched with compost and a complete fertiliser such as blood and bone, Dynamic Lifter or a vegetable-specific blend. This sets them up for strong early growth and tuber development.

For sandy soils, which lose nutrients quickly, improve retention with compost or well-rotted manure. These soils often require lighter, more frequent feeding during the season, using a balanced liquid vegetable fertiliser or seaweed solution. Loam or clay soils usually only need fertilising at planting, though a small mid-season top-up can help if growth slows or foliage looks pale.

In containers or grow bags, nutrients deplete faster. When layering potatoes, sprinkle fertiliser between layers as plants grow to support tuber development. Once filled, side dressings or liquid feeds every few weeks will keep growth steady. Seaweed extracts are also useful for boosting root health and resilience.

Sulphate of potash can be applied mid-season if potassium deficiency appears, such as weak growth, small tubers, or yellowing/browning leaf edges. Avoid extra applications if your main fertiliser already supplies adequate potassium. While potassium supports tuber size, flavour, and storage quality, excess use can upset nutrient balance and won’t improve results. In sandy soils, where potassium leaches quickly, it is often more beneficial than in heavier soils.

Avoid overfeeding, especially with nitrogen, as this encourages leafy growth at the expense of tubers. A tell-tale sign of excess nitrogen is lush, dark foliage but few potatoes forming underground. Stop fertilising 2–3 weeks before harvest to allow skins to set and improve storage quality. Always follow the instructions on fertiliser packaging for correct rates and timing.
Harvest

‘Maris Piper’ potatoes typically mature in 90–130 days, depending on growing conditions. In warmer parts of Western Australia, they may reach maturity slightly earlier, while in cooler southern areas they can take longer to develop fully.

For an early taste, harvest as new or chat potatoes around two to three weeks after flowering. These small, tender tubers have thin skins and are best eaten fresh, as they do not store well. This method, known as bandicooting, involves gently feeling around the base of the plant and removing a few developing tubers while leaving the rest to continue growing. If your potatoes don’t flower, begin checking from around eight weeks onward by carefully digging around the base to harvest young tubers. Early harvesting may slightly reduce the final yield.

For the main harvest, the clearest sign of maturity is when the foliage begins to yellow and die back. Once this occurs, stop watering and leave the tubers in the soil for another two to three weeks to allow the skins to firm. When the foliage has completely died back, the crop is ready to lift. You can check readiness by gently digging up one tuber and inspecting the skin. Mature potatoes will have firm skins that do not rub off easily. In warmer regions, avoid leaving them in the soil for too long after maturity, as higher soil temperatures can cause the tubers to deteriorate or sprout prematurely.

To harvest, carefully dig around the plant with a fork and lift the tubers, taking care not to damage them. Removing the foliage beforehand can make access easier. In pots or grow bags, tip the container on its side or open the access panel for easy removal.

Drying and Storage
After harvesting, allow the potatoes to dry to remove excess surface moisture and reduce the risk of rot. This also helps firm the skins for better storage. In mild regions of WA, lay them loosely on top of the soil for a couple of hours out of direct sunlight. In hotter regions, move them to a cool, shaded, well-ventilated area and spread them in a single layer.

Gently brush off any excess soil, but avoid washing, as this shortens their storage life. Store only mature potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space such as a pantry, cupboard, garage, or shed with stable temperatures. Use mesh bags or breathable containers to allow airflow and prevent moisture build-up.

‘Maris Piper’ is known as a good storage potato and, when properly cured and kept in the right conditions, can last for several months. Store harvested tubers in a cool, dark, and well-ventilated area, and check them regularly, removing any that show signs of sprouting, softening, or rot. Storage performance may vary depending on your region and growing conditions.
Pests and Diseases

Potatoes are prone to pests and diseases, including aphids, slugs, wireworms, blight, rot, and scab. To minimise issues, rotate crops every 3 to 4 years and plant only Certified Seed Potatoes. Avoid planting in areas previously used for grasses or pasture, which can increase the risk of wireworms. Maintain consistent, below-leaf watering to reduce humidity around foliage and discourage disease. Ensure the soil is well-drained and suited to their growing conditions, whether in garden beds, raised beds, or containers.

Aphids: Check leaves regularly and remove aphids by hand or with a strong spray of water. If necessary, use insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Slugs: Use beer traps, copper tape, or apply iron phosphate slug pellets to reduce damage, especially in damp areas.

Wireworms: Use cut potato bait traps to monitor wireworm populations and cultivate the soil thoroughly before planting to disrupt larvae. Solarise the soil if infestations persist.

Blight: Ensure good airflow between plants and avoid overhead watering. Remove and destroy infected foliage immediately. Use Certified Seed Potatoes and practise crop rotation every 3–4 years to avoid soil-borne issues and reduce pest build-up.

Rot: Improve drainage and avoid overwatering. Remove and discard any soft or rotting tubers during harvest and storage.

Scab: If your site is prone to scab or shows signs of alkalinity, lower soil pH to around 5.0 to 5.2 using elemental sulphur or acid-producing fertilisers such as ammonium sulphate. This helps suppress scab-causing bacteria. Avoid adding lime, wood ash, or fresh manure before planting, as these can raise pH. In heavier soils, improve drainage or grow in raised beds to help prevent water retention. If lowering pH is necessary, prepare the soil several weeks to a few months before planting, as amendments take time to take effect.

If scab appears, there are two common types: common scab, which causes rough, corky patches, and powdery scab, which produces raised pustules and may lead to rot in storage. Though mostly cosmetic, affected potatoes should be peeled before use and eaten sooner rather than stored. Discard any soft or damaged tubers, and do not use scabbed potatoes for replanting.
Clean growing conditions, consistent watering, and well-prepared soil all contribute to a healthier, more productive potato crop.
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