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Certified Seed Potato Delaware 1 KG Pack *WA Only*

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Certified seed potato ‘Delaware’ (Solanum tuberosum), also known as White Rose, is a long-standing WA favourite. With medium to large oval tubers, creamy skin, and firm white waxy flesh, it is valued for its flavour and reliability in the kitchen. Delaware holds its shape beautifully, making it perfect for boiling, roasting, steaming, or transforming into light, pillowy gnocchi —a quality appreciated by both home gardeners and local chefs. Naturally rich in fibre, potassium, and vitamin C, it offers not only great taste but also real nutritional benefits. Easy to grow, early to mature, and needing only minimal hilling, this determinate variety thrives in WA’s conditions, rewarding growers with consistent quality and dependable harvests.

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Description

Important Shipping Information
This item will be dispatched from our Western Australian supplier and is only available to customers in Western Australia.

All our seed potatoes are certified under the Australian Seed Potato Certification Scheme, guaranteeing they are true to type and disease-free.

Potato ‘Delaware’ (Solanum tuberosum)
Potato ‘Delaware’, also known as White Rose, is one of Western Australia’s most popular and widely grown potatoes. Medium to large with an oval shape, cream skin, and white waxy flesh, it is valued for its firm texture and excellent flavour. A versatile all-rounder, it’s perfect for boiling, roasting, steaming, and even gnocchi, thanks to its consistent quality. Vigorous and early-maturing, this determinate variety thrives in WA’s conditions and requires only minimal hilling. Delaware is best enjoyed fresh, but it can also be stored for a short period if cured and checked regularly.

Climate and Planting 
Potatoes grow well across WA when planted during the cooler months, benefiting from cooler soil that promotes strong growth and tuber development before the summer heat sets in. They are suitable for WA’s array of climates and perform best when planted from autumn through to spring. In frost-free areas, they can be grown year-round; however, avoid planting when the ground is extremely hot, as this can reduce tuber formation and quality.  In frost-prone areas, plant after the last expected frost. For optimal results, aim to plant during the coolest months within the recommended time frames below:
• Cool Climates – After the last frost in late winter to early spring; August to October | Alternative: Can also be planted in July, or March to May in frost-free areas.
• Temperate Climates – Mid-July to October. | Alternative: April to July or January in frost-free areas.
• Arid Climates – August to October. | Alternative: May to July in frost-free areas.
• Subtropical Climates – April to August.
• Tropical Climates – April to August.

Frost Considerations
Potatoes prefer cool to warm conditions but are sensitive to frost. In areas with light frost, you can plant 2–3 weeks before the last expected frost, as sprouting takes time. In heavier frost-prone zones, wait until after the last expected frost in late winter to spring, or pre-sprout seed potatoes indoors to get a head start. For early crops, use frost cloths, mulch, or grow bags in sheltered areas.

Chitting and Cutting Seed Potatoes
Chitting is the process of encouraging seed potatoes to sprout before planting. This helps them develop stronger shoots and begin growing faster once they are in the soil. While not essential, chitting is especially helpful for gardeners in frost-prone areas, as it gives the potatoes a head start.

Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces to increase the number of plants, but smaller potatoes should be planted whole to maintain strong yields. Always let cut pieces dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to form a protective layer that lowers the risk of rot and disease. After chitting, some sprouts can be removed to focus the plant’s energy on fewer, larger potatoes, or left intact for a higher yield of smaller tubers. If cutting out sprouts, let the cut surface dry for 24 hours before planting to prevent rot.

How to Chit and Prepare:
• Place seed potatoes with the eyes facing up in a cool, dry, bright spot for 4–6 weeks until short, sturdy sprouts develop.
• Cut tubers after chitting, ensuring each piece has 1–2 eyes. Leave small potatoes whole.
• Once sprouts are about 1–2 cm long, either leave them intact or remove a few.
• Plant the seed potatoes once soil conditions are suitable.

Soil Requirements
Potatoes grow best in loose, well-draining soil enriched with compost or organic matter. Sandy soils need plenty of compost or well-rotted manure to improve retention, while clay soils benefit from organic matter to improve drainage. Aim for a soil pH of 5.0–6.5, with 5.5–6.5 ideal. For containers, use a quality potting mix blended 1:1 with compost in containers at least 40 cm deep, with good drainage.

Location
Plant in full sun, ensuring potatoes receive 6–8 hours of direct sunlight each day. In periods of extreme heat, some afternoon shade can help reduce stress and prevent sunburn.

How to Plant Potatoes
• Trenches: Dig 20–30 cm deep and 20 cm wide, spaced at least 50 cm apart. Add 10 cm of compost and scatter a complete fertiliser along the trench. Place seed potatoes 10–20 cm deep with the eyes facing up, spaced 30–45 cm apart. Cover with soil, water in well, and apply a light mulch.
• Raised Beds: Use the trench method, placing seed potatoes 10–20 cm deep and 20–30 cm apart. Adjust row spacing to fit your bed. Cover with soil, water in, and mulch.
• Containers/Grow Bags: Add 10 cm of blended potting mix and compost with fertiliser. Plant 1–2 seed potatoes per layer, spaced apart. Cover with 10 cm of soil, add a second layer if desired, and then top up with 10–15 cm of soil to fill the pot. Water them in well after planting and apply mulch.

Fertilising
Incorporate a complete fertiliser, such as blood and bone or a vegetable blend, into the soil at planting. Potatoes in sandy soils will benefit from extra feeding, while loam and clay soils usually only need fertilising at planting, with a light mid-season top-up if growth slows or foliage looks pale. In containers, nutrients deplete faster, so ongoing feeding through the season is important. Avoid over-fertilising, as excess nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of tubers.

Mounding & Mulching
Determinate varieties produce all their tubers in a single layer. After shoots reach 5–10 cm, mound just enough soil or mulch, such as straw or hay, to cover any exposed tubers. No repeated mounding is typically needed, but check regularly to ensure tubers are not exposed, especially in wet conditions. Mulching helps retain moisture, suppresses weeds, and protects developing tubers from sunlight, promoting healthy growth.

Watering
Keep soil consistently moist, especially in hot, dry areas or when using pots, which dry out faster. Stop watering 2–3 weeks before harvest to allow skins to toughen for storage.

Harvesting
‘Delaware’ reaches maturity sooner than many other varieties, generally in around 70–90 days, depending on WA’s climate and growing conditions. For the main harvest, stop watering when the foliage begins to yellow and die back, then leave the tubers in the soil for another 2–3 weeks to allow the skins to firm. By this stage, the foliage should have completely died back, and the crop will be ready to lift. Harvest carefully and allow potatoes to dry in a cool, shaded, well-ventilated spot before storing in breathable containers. Best enjoyed fresh, but can be stored short-term if checked regularly and any soft or damaged potatoes are removed.

Bandicooting for Early Potatoes
For an early harvest of fresh new potatoes, you can bandicoot Delaware plants by carefully digging around the base and lifting a few small tubers while leaving the rest to mature. This is usually possible two to three weeks after flowering, or from around 60 days if the plants don’t flower. These tender potatoes have thin skins and are best eaten soon after harvest, as they don’t store well.

Pests & Diseases 
• Aphids: Remove by hand, use insecticidal soap, or encourage beneficial insects
• Slugs & Snails: Hand-pick, set traps, or use pet-safe bait
• Wireworms: Practise crop rotation and avoid planting in freshly sodded areas
• Rot: Improve drainage and avoid overwatering
• Powdery Scab: Rotate crops and avoid replanting potatoes in the same soil for 3–4 years

Green Potatoes
Exposed tubers can turn green due to exposure to sunlight and develop solanine, a naturally occurring toxin. To prevent this, ensure tubers are fully covered with soil or mulch during growth.

Caution: Do not eat green potatoes – they are toxic.

Supplied as dormant tubers.

Additional information

Botanical Name

Solanum tuberosum
Net Weight

1 kg
Harvesting Time

This variety typically matures in 70–90 days, depending on climate and growing conditions. They are ready to harvest when the foliage has fully died back.
Planting Time

Potatoes grow well across WA when planted during the cooler months, benefiting from cool soils that promote strong growth and tuber development before the summer heat sets in. They are suitable for WA’s range of climates and perform best when planted from autumn through to spring. In frost-free areas, they can be grown year-round; however, avoid planting when the ground is extremely hot, as this can reduce tuber formation and quality. Alternative planting times are also possible in many regions, though these may result in smaller yields or reduced quality due to heat and less favourable conditions. For best results, plant during the coolest months, from autumn to spring, within the recommended windows below:

Cool Climates – August to October, Alternative planting: July, or March to May in frost-free areas
Temperate Climates – July to October, Alternative planting: April to July, or January in frost-free areas
Arid Climates – August to October, Alternative planting: May to July in frost-free areas
Subtropical Climates – April to August
Tropical Climates – April to August
Planting Depth

Plant 10-20 cm deep in trenches, vegetable beds, and raised beds.

For containers, use a layering technique when planting more than one potato. Add 10–15 cm, or one-third, of a 1:1 mix of potting mix and compost to the bottom, place two seed potatoes, and cover with soil. Add a second layer of potatoes, then cover with the remaining 10–15 cm of soil to fill the pot. This method allows you to grow up to four potatoes per pot while maximising space.
Planting two seed potatoes per layer provides the best conditions for strong growth and well-sized tubers, though smaller seed potatoes can be planted more densely if desired. The aim is to ensure each tuber has sufficient space to develop fully.

Alternatively, if planting one potato per pot, place the seed potato at a depth of 10–20 cm. This depth provides the space needed for the tuber to grow properly and stay protected from sunlight. Cover with soil or mulch and allow the potato to grow naturally, with minimal mounding required.
Planting Width

For trenches: Plant tubers 30–45 cm apart, with at least 50 cm between rows. For raised beds: Plant 20–30 cm apart, adjusting row spacing to suit bed width.
In pots or grow bags, plant up to two seed potatoes per layer to ensure each has adequate space to grow properly. Four potatoes per pot, two per layer, is sufficient to achieve a healthy yield, as determinate potatoes grow in a concentrated layer and do not produce tubers vertically along the stem like indeterminate varieties.
Chitting (Pre-Sprouting)

Chitting encourages seed potatoes to sprout before planting, promoting stronger shoots, faster growth, and potentially higher yields. While not essential, it can be useful in WA’s cooler southern regions where frosts may occur, as it gives potatoes a head start before planting.

Potatoes will sprout naturally in cool to warm soil, but chitting speeds up the process, making it ideal for early harvests or when planting in cooler conditions. In warmer parts of WA, many gardeners skip chitting because the soil is already warm enough to trigger sprouting. However, if soil temperatures are too high, sprouting can occur too quickly, leading to weak shoots and reduced yields. For best results across WA, plant when the soil is cool but beginning to warm.

How to Chit Seed Potatoes:
Place seed potatoes in trays or egg cartons with the eyes facing up in a cool, bright, frost-free spot such as a windowsill or greenhouse. Avoid direct sunlight or darkness, as weak, leggy shoots can break easily. In four to six weeks, short, sturdy green or purple shoots will form.
Larger seed potatoes can be cut into pieces after chitting. Each piece should be at least 4 to 6 cm long and contain one to two eyes. If cutting, allow the pieces to air dry for 24 to 48 hours before planting to prevent rot.

After your seed potatoes have sprouted and the shoots reach approximately 1–2 cm, some sprouts can be left intact or a few removed by rubbing them off. If removing sprouts by cutting them out, allow the cut area to dry for at least 24 hours before planting to help prevent rot. Removing some sprouts helps the plant focus its energy, producing fewer but larger potatoes. Conversely, leaving more sprouts can increase overall yield by producing more, but smaller, potatoes.

Preparing Chitted Potatoes for Planting:
Once your seed potatoes have developed, handle them carefully to avoid breaking the sprouts when planting.
Soil

Potatoes prefer loose, well-draining soil enriched with compost or organic matter. In WA, soils vary widely: sandy soils drain quickly and need plenty of added compost or well-rotted manure to improve water and nutrient retention, while heavier clay soils benefit from organic matter to loosen their structure and improve drainage. Gypsum can also help many WA clays, though results vary depending on soil type, so compost is always the most reliable option. Loamy soils are generally ideal and only need a boost of compost before planting. For very sandy or heavy clay areas, planting in raised beds filled with improved soil or a compost-rich mix will provide better results.

Potatoes grow best in slightly acidic soil with a pH of 5.0–6.5. For most crops, aim for 5.5–6.5 for balanced growth and yield. Scab, which causes rough, scabby patches on potato skins, is more likely in dry conditions, making sandy soils particularly prone to this issue. Keeping soil evenly moist and maintaining a pH closer to 5.0–5.2 in scab-prone areas can help reduce the risk, though this may slightly reduce overall yields.

For containers, use a high-quality potting mix blended with compost, ensuring the container has good drainage to prevent waterlogging.
How to Plant

Location: Choose a sunny position for planting, whether in the garden, raised beds, pots, or grow bags. Potatoes need at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight each day to support healthy growth and high yields. In WA’s hotter regions, providing some afternoon shade can help reduce plant stress and prevent sunburn.

Pots and Grow Bags: Fill about 10–15 cm, roughly one-third, of the pot or grow bag with a 1:1 mix of potting mix and compost. Place the seed potatoes eyes up on the first 10 cm layer of mix and cover with another 10 cm of soil. Add a second layer of potatoes, then cover with the remaining 10–15 cm of soil to fill the pot, ensuring enough space for healthy, vertical growth. This method is ideal for two to four potatoes per pot, allowing them to grow in layers. Once the container is full, add mulch to help retain moisture and suppress weeds. Place the pot or grow bag in a sunny position and water regularly to keep the soil consistently moist.

Trenches, vegetable beds and raised beds: For trenches, vegetable beds, and raised beds, it’s best to dig trenches to provide the necessary space for potatoes to grow, as they develop in a horizontal layer rather than forming tubers up the stem.

To create trenches, dig to a depth of 20–30 cm to ensure the potatoes are planted at a depth of 10–20 cm, providing adequate protection from sunlight and heat. Place the removed soil to the sides of the trench. Add 10 cm of compost, mixing the fertiliser into the compost before placing it in the trench, or sprinkle the fertiliser over the compost once it's in place. Space potatoes 30–45 cm apart in trenches, leaving at least 50 cm between rows.

In raised beds, space potatoes 20–30 cm apart, adjusting row spacing to suit the bed size while ensuring enough room for tuber development. Backfill the trench with the remaining soil and compost mixture, then water well.

Determinate potatoes do not require continuous hilling but may need one-time mounding to cover any exposed tubers. Afterward, apply mulch to help with moisture retention and weed suppression. If needed, additional mulch can be added later for extra protection.

In regions of Western Australia where heavier winter rains occur, planting in raised beds or mounded rows improves drainage and supports healthy growth. Potatoes generally perform best in raised beds and vegetable beds, where they have the space to develop larger tubers and higher yields. When grown in grow bags or small containers, tuber size may be smaller. For determinate varieties, plant up to four seed potatoes per grow bag or pot to allow sufficient room for root and tuber development.
Watering

Keep the soil moist without overwatering, as potatoes need steady moisture for tuber formation. This is particularly important in WA’s hot, dry regions or when growing in pots, as containers dry out more quickly. If using black pots, moving them to a spot with dappled shade is fine, but ensure plants still receive 6–8 hours of sunlight each day. Stop watering about two weeks before harvesting to allow the skins to thicken and toughen, which helps the potatoes store better.
Fertilise

In WA, fertiliser needs vary with soil type. Potatoes respond best to soil that is well-prepared with compost and a complete fertiliser such as blood and bone, Dynamic Lifter or a vegetable-specific blend. This provides the nutrients they need for strong early growth and tuber development.

For sandy soils, which lose nutrients quickly, improve retention with compost or well-rotted manure. These soils may also benefit from lighter, more frequent feeding during the season using a balanced liquid vegetable fertiliser or seaweed solution. In loam or clay soils, fertilising at planting is usually enough, though a small top-up mid-season can help if growth slows or foliage looks pale.

In containers or grow bags, nutrients deplete faster, so side dressings or liquid feeds every few weeks are recommended as plants grow. Seaweed extracts are also useful to boost root health and plant resilience.

Sulphate of potash can be applied if potassium deficiency appears, such as small tubers, weak growth, or leaf edges yellowing/browning. Apply mid-season if required, but avoid if your main fertiliser already supplies adequate potassium. Potassium is vital for tuber size, flavour, and storage quality, but using more than plants need won’t improve results and can upset nutrient balance. In sandy soils, where potassium leaches quickly, it is often more beneficial than in heavier soils.

Avoid overfeeding, especially with nitrogen, as this encourages leafy growth at the expense of tubers. A common sign of excess nitrogen is lush, dark green foliage with very few potatoes forming underground. Stop fertilising 2–3 weeks before harvest to allow skins to set and improve storage quality. Always follow the instructions on fertiliser packaging for application rates and timing.
Harvest

‘Delaware’ potatoes typically mature in 70–90 days, depending on WA’s climate and growing conditions. In warmer parts of Western Australia, they may reach maturity a little earlier, while in cooler southern areas they can take longer to develop fully.

If you'd like an earlier harvest of new potatoes, you can bandicoot Delaware plants about two to three weeks after flowering, or from around eight weeks if the plants do not flower. Bandicooting involves gently digging around the base of the plant and removing a few small, developing tubers while leaving the plant to continue growing. These thin-skinned, tender potatoes are best eaten fresh, as they do not store well. Early harvesting may slightly reduce the final yield.

For the main harvest, the clearest sign that potatoes are ready is when the foliage begins to yellow and die back. Once this occurs, stop watering and leave the tubers in the soil for another two to three weeks to allow the skins to firm. When the foliage has completely died back, the crop is ready to lift. Potatoes that are ready will have skins that feel set and hold up when handled, though with early varieties like Delaware, the skins may still be thinner than later-maturing types. In warmer regions, avoid leaving them in the soil for too long after maturity, as higher soil temperatures can cause the tubers to deteriorate or sprout prematurely.

To harvest, carefully dig around the plant with a fork and lift the tubers, taking care not to damage them. Removing the foliage beforehand can make access easier. In pots or grow bags, tip the container on its side or open the access panel for easy removal.

Drying and Storage

After harvesting, allow the potatoes to dry to remove excess surface moisture and reduce the risk of rot. This also helps firm the skins for better storage. In mild regions of WA, lay them loosely on top of the soil for a couple of hours out of direct sunlight. In hotter regions, move them to a cool, shaded, well-ventilated area and spread them in a single layer.

Gently brush off any excess soil, but avoid washing, as this shortens their storage life. Store only mature potatoes in a cool, dark, well-ventilated space such as a pantry, cupboard, garage, or shed with stable temperatures. Use mesh bags or breathable containers to allow airflow and prevent moisture build-up.

‘Delaware’ can be stored when cured and kept in the right conditions. Check potatoes regularly and remove any that show signs of sprouting, softening, or rot. Storage performance may vary depending on your region and growing conditions.
Pests and Diseases

Potatoes are prone to pests and diseases, including aphids, slugs, wireworms, blight, rot, and scab. To minimise issues, rotate crops every 3 to 4 years and plant only Certified Seed Potatoes. Avoid planting in areas previously used for grasses or pasture, which can increase the risk of wireworms. Maintain consistent, below-leaf watering to reduce humidity around foliage and discourage disease. Ensure the soil is well-drained and suited to their growing conditions, whether in garden beds, raised beds, or containers.

Aphids: Check leaves regularly and remove aphids by hand or with a strong spray of water. If necessary, use insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Slugs: Use beer traps, copper tape, or apply iron phosphate slug pellets to reduce damage, especially in damp areas.

Wireworms: Use cut potato bait traps to monitor wireworm populations and cultivate the soil thoroughly before planting to disrupt larvae. Solarise the soil if infestations persist.

Blight: Ensure good airflow between plants and avoid overhead watering. Remove and destroy infected foliage immediately. Use Certified Seed Potatoes and practice crop rotation every 3–4 years to avoid soil-borne issues and reduce pest build-up.

Rot: Improve drainage and avoid overwatering. Remove and discard any soft or rotting tubers during harvest and storage.

Scab: If your site is prone to scab or shows signs of alkalinity, lower soil pH to around 5.0 to 5.2 using elemental sulphur or acid-producing fertilisers such as ammonium sulphate. This helps suppress scab-causing bacteria. Avoid adding lime, wood ash, or fresh manure before planting, as these can raise pH. In heavier soils, improve drainage or grow in raised beds to help prevent water retention. If lowering pH is necessary, prepare the soil several weeks to a few months before planting, as amendments take time to take effect.

If scab appears, there are two common types: common scab, which causes rough, corky patches, and powdery scab, which produces raised pustules and may lead to rot in storage. Though mostly cosmetic, affected potatoes should be peeled before use and eaten sooner rather than stored. Discard any soft or damaged tubers, and do not use scabbed potatoes for replanting.
Clean growing conditions, consistent watering, and well-prepared soil all contribute to a healthier, more productive potato crop.
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