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Black Currant

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Looking for something bold, productive, and packed with benefits? The black currant (Ribes nigrum) is an outstanding choice — a compact, self-fertile shrub that produces glossy, dark berries in summer, bursting with tangy flavour and natural antioxidants — perfect for jams, juices, desserts, or baked goods. In early spring, delicate pale-yellow flowers appear, giving way to rich fruit from the second year onwards. Black currants thrive in cool, temperate, and arid climates, growing best in rich, well-drained soil and showing excellent frost tolerance once established. Easy to grow and versatile, they suit garden beds, raised beds, and even converted lawn areas, making them a flexible choice for any garden layout. With the right care, black currants can remain productive for many years — a flavour-packed, rewarding addition to any home garden.

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Description

Black Currant (Ribes nigrum)

Black currant is a hardy, self-fertile deciduous shrub grown for its rich, dark purple berries and vigorous growth. It produces strong canes in the first year, with fruit developing on second-year wood. In spring, clusters of pale-yellow flowers appear, followed by berries that ripen in early summer.

Thriving in cool, temperate, and arid climates, black currants benefit from winter chill to fruit reliably. Plant bare-rooted canes from autumn to winter while dormant, allowing roots to establish before spring growth.

These compact shrubs typically grow to around 1 m high and 60 cm wide, making them well-suited to home gardens. They grow best in full sun to part shade, with protection from hot winds and rich, well-drained soil (pH 6–6.5). Though tolerant of heavier soils, drainage must be good.

Where to Plant

  • Garden beds: Provide sun, airflow, and wind protection.
  • Raised beds: Great for heavy or poor soil and dry climates.
  • Converted lawns/compacted ground: Use cardboard as a barrier, then layer compost and mulch, planting directly into the surface.

How to Plant (Autumn to Winter)

  1. Soak bare-rooted canes for 1–2 hours.
  2. Improve soil with compost and complete fertiliser. In drier zones, add coco coir or straw to improve water retention.
  3. Dig a wide hole (or make a mound in warm regions). Plant 5–10 cm deeper than the original soil line to encourage strong base shoots.
  4. Space 1.5–1.8 m between plants; 1.8–2.5 m between rows.
  5. Water in well and mulch around the base, keeping it 5–10 cm from the stems.
  6. Prune stems to 10–30 cm above ground. In cool climates, cut lower to promote bushiness; in arid zones, prune slightly higher to protect buds from sun exposure.

Mulching, Fertilising & Watering

Mulch:
Apply a 5–10 cm layer of straw, compost, or sugarcane mulch around the base in winter and spring, after pruning and feeding, to conserve moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Reapply in summer if needed, especially in warmer or drier regions. Keep mulch 5–10 cm away from the stems.

Fertiliser:
Feed in spring with a general-purpose fertiliser. Topdress with compost or well-rotted manure. Avoid high-nitrogen feeds.

Watering:
Keep soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during flowering and fruiting. Overwatering can cause skin splitting. Water deeply, allow the top few centimetres of soil to dry slightly between waterings, and ensure good drainage. Increase watering in dry spells and reduce it in winter without letting the soil dry out completely.

Pruning Black Currants

Black currants fruit on second-year wood, so pruning encourages strong new shoots for future crops. Prune from late autumn through winter while the plant is dormant.

Years 1–2 (Establishment):

  • After planting, cut stems to 10–30 cm to encourage base shoots.
  • First winter: Keep 3–5 strong shoots, cutting back by half. Remove weak or crowded growth.
  • Second winter: Retain 6–8 outward-facing canes, cut back by one-quarter. Prune side shoots to 3–4 buds.

Year 3 Onward (Maintenance):

  • Remove up to one-third of the oldest canes at ground level.
  • Retain new 1-year-old canes (do not shorten them).
  • Prune side shoots to 2–4 buds.
  • Remove damaged, inward, or low growth. Remove suckers (runners) if not replanting them elsewhere.

After Fruiting (Late Summer):
Shorten leafy side shoots on main branches to five leaves to improve airflow and encourage bud formation.

Pruning Tips:

  • Prune to an outward-facing bud for a bushy shape.
  • Use upward-facing buds when training canes vertically.

Harvesting

Pick from early summer once berries are fully coloured and slightly soft to the touch. Harvest entire clusters when most of the berries are ripe for best flavour and ease. Black currants begin producing from their second year and are ideal for freezing, or for use in jams, juices, sauces, and baked goods. Store in the fridge for a few days or freeze immediately after picking to retain quality.

Pests & Diseases

Black currants are easy to grow with minimal issues when maintained well.

  • Pests: Aphids, scale, and currant borer may appear. Encourage beneficial insects and inspect regularly.
  • Diseases: Powdery mildew, rust, and leaf spot can occur. Prune for airflow, avoid overhead watering, and maintain garden hygiene.

Toxicity

Berries are edible, but the leaves and other plant parts should not be consumed. Monitor children and pets around the plant.

Supplied as a bare-rooted cane.

Additional information

Price Code

D – Purple Pack

Botanical Name

Ribes nigrum

Quantity in Pack

1 Cane

Harvest Time

Summer

Planting Time

Autumn to Winter

Planting Depth

Plant 5–10 cm deeper than the original soil mark on the stem. This helps encourage new shoots to emerge from the base, supporting a stronger, more productive framework over time.

Planting Width

1.5–1.8 m between plants; 1.8–2.5 m between rows.

Soil

Black currants prefer rich, well-drained soil with a pH between 6 and 6.5. While they tolerate heavier soils, good drainage is essential.

How to Plant

Choose a permanent, sheltered spot in full sun to part shade, as black currants are long-lived and don’t transplant well once established. Shelter from strong winds helps protect young shoots, reduce moisture loss, and improve fruit set. Raised beds are ideal for poor or heavy soils, while they can also be planted into prepared garden beds, lawns, or compacted areas where the ground has been improved.

Dig a hole wide enough to spread out the roots without bending. The depth should allow the roots to sit naturally below the surface. In warmer climates, you can create a small mound at the base of the hole to improve drainage and reduce heat stress at the crown.

Prepare the site by mixing in well-rotted manure and a complete fertiliser to enrich the soil and support early growth. Soak bare roots in water for 1–2 hours before planting to rehydrate them and reduce transplant shock.

Place the plant in the hole, cover with soil, and firm down gently. Space plants 1.5–1.8 metres apart, with 1.8–2.5 metres between rows to allow airflow and easy access. Water in well and apply mulch around the base, keeping it clear of the stems.

Prune all stems to 10–30 cm above ground level. In cool or temperate climates, prune to 10–15 cm to encourage bushy growth. In arid regions, prune to around 30 cm to protect young buds from heat.

Watering

Blackcurrants need regular moisture to support healthy growth and reliable fruiting. Keep the soil consistently moist but not waterlogged, especially during flowering and fruit development. Overwatering can lead to fruit splitting, so water deeply and allow the top few centimetres of soil to dry slightly between waterings. Ensure the soil is free-draining and avoid watering late in the day to reduce the risk of fungal issues. Increase watering in hot or dry conditions, and reduce it in winter while ensuring the soil doesn’t dry out completely.

Fertilise

Black currants are moderate feeders, meaning they don’t need constant fertilising but still benefit from nutrient-rich soil and seasonal feeding to support healthy growth and fruiting.

When planting, mix in a complete fertiliser to provide a balanced supply of nutrients for strong root development and early growth. Combine this with well-rotted organic matter to improve soil structure and fertility.

The best time to feed established plants is in early spring, just as new growth begins. Apply a general-purpose organic fertiliser to support growth and fruit production. If needed, a liquid feed can be used every 4–6 weeks during the growing season to give plants an extra boost. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilisers, as they encourage excessive leaf growth at the expense of fruit.

Pruning

Blackcurrants fruit on second-year wood, so pruning is essential to maintain productivity. After fruiting in late summer, shorten leafy side shoots to five leaves to improve airflow and encourage bud development for the next season. Main pruning should take place during the dormant period, from late autumn through winter.

After planting, cut stems back to 10–30 cm to encourage strong base shoots. In the first winter, select 3–5 vigorous shoots that grew in the first year, cut them back by half, and remove any weak or crowded growth. In the second winter, retain 6–8 outward-facing canes and cut them back by a quarter. Prune side shoots to 3–4 buds and remove crossing or inward-growing stems.

From the third year onwards, remove up to a third of the oldest canes each winter to promote new growth. Keep one-year-old canes, as they’ll fruit the following season. Shorten side shoots to 2–4 buds and remove damaged growth or suckers around the base. Always prune to outward-facing buds for an open, productive shape.

Harvest

Black currants are ready to harvest from early summer, once the berries are fully coloured and slightly soft to the touch. Pick entire clusters when most berries have ripened. Fruit production begins from the second year. Berries can be frozen or processed into jams, juices, or sauces. They will keep in the fridge for a few days, but for longer storage, it’s best to freeze them immediately after picking.

With good care, black currant plants remain productive for 10 to 15 years, producing their heaviest and most reliable crops from years 3 to 8. Regular pruning and soil maintenance help keep yields strong throughout their lifespan. Being self-fertile, a single plant is enough to produce fruit.

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